[MarkBroussard]

Exactly BobZ’s point … there is no such thing as a “Licensed Cosmetic Chemist”

You can be a degreed Chemist or a Chemist that graduated from a Cosmetic Chemistry program, or even a non-degreed person who learned from on-the-job experience.  But, there are no licensing certification bodies for cosmetic chemists that I am aware of.

[MarkBroussard]

@Rosa:

My pleasure.  Glad to hear that you had some success!

[MarkBroussard]

Ditch the Sorbitol and cut the Xanthan Gum down to 0.3% … the Sorbitol is certainly adding to the tackiness (it’s a sugar).  

[MarkBroussard]

@chicob:

Check out PylamDyes (US) or Vivimed’s Jarocol (UK) lines.  Pylam has Basic Dyes and Acid Dyes, Jarocol has HC Dyes … specifically for semi-permanent hair dyes.

Note that the regulations for what is allowed in a hair dyes are significantly more stringent in the EU than in the US.

[MarkBroussard]

@humanity:

Why are you heating to 100C?  That’s unusually high … generally 75C to 80C is sufficient.

[MarkBroussard]

@humanity:

You can add anywhere between 0.5% and 1.0% Tocopherol.  You might also want to consider adding Rosemary Extract at the same percentages.

[MarkBroussard]

Sounds like you need an Ascorbic Acid Oxidometer.

[MarkBroussard]

@microformulation:

The original poster indicated that he/she wanted to develop a, preferably organic, skin lightening product that could be sold in the EU market.  No mention was made that the product would be targeted to a particular ethnic skin type.  

[MarkBroussard]

@microformulation:

I am a Fitzpartrick I/II and I no longer have any age spots, or euphemistically, sun kisses from using my serums.

[MarkBroussard]

I have made several skin lightening serums and can attest that they do indeed work … all depends on your definition of “skin lightening.”  I have several age spots from sun exposure that have disappeared from use of serums with these ingredients.  They are most effective against damaged cells that overproduce melanin.

Now, if your definition of “skin lightening” is that they will actually lighten your entire complexion, you’re probably going to be disappointed.  But, they will definitely even skin tone.

The ingredients discussed in this thread all have different mechanism of action in inhibiting the melanin metabolic pathway, so they are best used in combination.

[MarkBroussard]

@Belassi:

There are several sources of liquid licorice root extract that are readily available from reputable suppliers.

[MarkBroussard]

@olubunmi:

Here’s a list for you to research:

Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate (Vitamin C)

Mulberry Extract

Daisy Flower Extract

Niacinamide (ProVitamin B3)

Licorice Root Extract

Rice Bran Extract

Bearberry Extract

Kojic Acid can be a skin irritant and Alpha Arbutin is “frowned upon” in the Natural/Organic arena.

[MarkBroussard]

There are actually quite a few on the market.  Here’s an LOI for a Colgate toothpaste:

Sodium Monofluorophosphate

Inactive Ingredients

propylene glycol, calcium pyrophosphate, PVP, PEG/PPG-116/66 copolymer, PEG-12, glycerin, flavor, hydrogen peroxide, sodium lauryl sulfate, silica, tetrasodium pyrophosphate, sodium saccharin, disodium pyrophosphate, sucralose, BHT

[MarkBroussard]

@rosa:

Olivem 1000 is a finicky emulsifier and forms a lamellar structure, so lots of ingredients in the aqueous phase pre-emulsification can have a negative effect on forming a stable emulsion.

Yep, you can just add your ingredients as powders directly to the emulsion under high shear … they will dissolve/disperse in the emulsion with homogenization.  Or, if you want to hold back some of the water and dissolve the solid ingredients in a small volume of heated water, no problem.

SLMW HA will not form a gel.  Higher MW HA will gel and thicken your aqueous phase and may have an effect on the emulsion.

So, to sum it up … Olivem 1000 does not form stable emulsion solo … you need to also add Glyceryl Stearate, Cetyl Alcohol and Xanthan Gum.  If using Olivem 1000, you should minimize the ingredients in your aqueous phase pre-emulsification and add them post-emulsification at cool down.  Olivem 1000 does not form stable emulsions if the oil phase is much above 15%. 

[MarkBroussard]

@rosa:

I would try cutting down on the oil phase + butters to no more than 15%.  I have found that Olivem will not form stable emulsions with oil content much above 15%.

Another question:  Are you using Hyaluronic Acid (SLMW) or a higher molecular weight HA?

When you say “Water phase contains MSM, GABA, pro vit B5, hyaluronic acid, niacinamide, hydrolysed proteins (cationic) (1%), beta-glucan (0.5%), etc.” … Are you adding these ingredients to the water phase prior to forming the emulsion?  If so, that may be your problem.  Try first forming the emulsion and then adding these ingredients, one-by-one, at 40C or less.

[MarkBroussard]

@rosa:

Yes, that “self emulsifier” line is marketing schtick.  The only way you’re going to get a stable emulsion with Olivem 1000 is as I described.  I use it extensively and this is how you get a stable emulsion with it.

I do not use BTMS so can’t offer you any advice there.

Are you using a homogenizer or some other piece of equipment?  It really does need the power of a homogenizer to get a stable emulsion.

Hope that helps.

[MarkBroussard]

@rosa:

Looking at your ingredients, I don’t see any there that should be problematic.

If you’re using Olivem, you’re going to want also add 2% Glyceryl Stearate, 1% Cetyl Alcohol and 0.2% Xanthan Gum to stabilize and thicken the emulsion.  I would try that first.

[MarkBroussard]

@rosa:

Are you homogenizing continuously from the time you add the two phases?  Regardless of the ingredients, if you do not homogenize until your emulsion reaches 50C or below, you will get separation.

I ask because your statement “ first breaking/curdling a minute or two after combining the two phases at 75 degrees celsius, then emulsification..which later separates (layer of oil on top and thinning of cream) after potting” … makes me think that perhaps it’s a technique issue and not an ingredient issue. 

[MarkBroussard]

@ridabush:

In what order are you adding the Ingredients?  If you post your process, perhaps that may give a clue.

And, what “natural fragrance” are you using.

[MarkBroussard]

Because Silver is not a plant-based, renewable ingredient which is a criteria for ECOCert.

[MarkBroussard]

@Perry:

Same here.  I’ll take a look at it.

[MarkBroussard]

Camphor can be poisonous.  It has no business being in a toothpaste.

[MarkBroussard]

I generally always add a chelating agent.  Depending on the chelant you use, the chelant will also provide some preservative boosting effects.

[MarkBroussard]

Generally, your salt curve will peak at about 2.5% to 3% as a viscosity enhancer.  Thereafter, additional salt will actually thin your product.

Increase your SLS to the 30% to 40% range.

Add the salt as the last step in your formulation.  Try using 2%, 2.5% and 3.0% to see the effect on viscosity.

[MarkBroussard]

The propylene glycol will function as a solubilizer for the Eucalyptus Oil and boost preservation efficacy.  I use a variant in my cleansers and it has no discernible, deleterious effect on foaming.