Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Hair Shampoo Formula

  • Shampoo Formula

    Posted by rldabush on August 19, 2015 at 9:11 pm

    I am currently working
    on a natural shampoo formula and am having trouble with the formula thinning
    out after a few days. I have tried making just the shampoo base and testing the
    additives separately, and these have stayed a good stable viscosity. When I try to
    combine all the ingredients, especially any sample that had the preservative added, it thins out after about 2 days. In addition, when I added a natural fragrance the shampoo had some separation. 

    Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated

    This is the formula that
    I am working with:

    57% Water

    40% Iselux SFS (Water
    (and) Sodium Lauroyl Methyl Isethionate (and) Cocamidopropyl Betaine (and)  Sodium
    Cocoyl Isethionate (and) Sodium Methyl Oleoyl Taurate)

    0.5% Hydrolyzed Wheat

    0.5% Panthenol

    1% Preservative (Gluconolactone
    (and) Sodium Benzoate)

    Citric Acid (50%

    1% Salt

    heraklit replied 8 years, 5 months ago 10 Members · 14 Replies
  • 14 Replies
  • OldPerry

    August 19, 2015 at 9:25 pm

    Did you do a salt curve analysis?  Also, what is your pH range?

    For the fragrance you probably need a solubilizer like Polysorbate 20.

  • David

    August 19, 2015 at 9:31 pm

    seems you have nowhere to go except changing fragrance and preservative. That’s the main reason I don’t like premixes like Iselux SFS

  • David08848

    August 19, 2015 at 9:31 pm

    By “natural fragrance” do you mean essential oils?  If so which ones?   It will be helpful to know which ones you are using as some are known to cause issues like you are having.  (percentages are not necessary)


  • David

    August 19, 2015 at 9:34 pm

    with a formula like that I would even let innospec (supplier of Iselux) do all the work and let them find a suitable fragrance and preservative

  • MarkBroussard

    August 19, 2015 at 11:06 pm


    In what order are you adding the Ingredients?  If you post your process, perhaps that may give a clue.
    And, what “natural fragrance” are you using.
  • melanie

    November 2, 2015 at 1:09 am

    Can I use decyl glucose as my main surfactant in a formulation or do I have to use a anionic surfactant ?

  • chemist1

    November 2, 2015 at 12:07 pm

    What is your pH?  It sounds like you are at the top of your salt curve.

  • belassi

    November 2, 2015 at 3:32 pm

    Decyl glucoside usually has a very high pH and will require a lot of citric acid to neutralise. Or you could use a carboxylic acid surfactant to neutralise.

  • OldPerry

    November 2, 2015 at 5:29 pm

    Yes, some companies use decyl glucoside as their main detergent.

    For example…
  • belassi

    November 2, 2015 at 5:59 pm

    Interesting LOI for that product. Perry. Did you notice there are NO pH adjusters listed, despite the fact that DG is known to have very high pH? (up to 10.5 apparently)

  • OldPerry

    November 2, 2015 at 9:20 pm

    Yes, it seems like there should be some Citric Acid in there. The product doesn’t list ingredients properly so it’s likely that there is just a mistake in the label.

  • Ruben

    November 2, 2015 at 10:08 pm

    Also gluconolactone gets converted into gluconic acid when dissolved in water, which may help to drop the pH

  • belassi

    November 3, 2015 at 9:40 pm

    I have some Iselux SFS here and have tested it pretty thoroughly. My results were that our existing sulphate-free formula foams better, has better sensorials, and costs less. I am getting back to the *original* question here.

    I’m pretty sure your preservative is causing the problem you mentioned.
  • heraklit

    November 4, 2015 at 4:52 pm

    There is a decyl glucoside with pH 3-5:  Oramix ns10

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