MarkBroussard
Forum Replies Created
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Yes, the Montanov series create thin emulsions, so you’re going to need Xanthan and Cetyl, Stearoyl, or Cetearyl Alcohol (3%) to get decent viscosity.
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It’s a nice combination of moisturizers, humectants, emollients, but could use an occlusive. I agree with @em88 … I would trash the two chosen emulsifiers and go with something that forms a lamellar structure.
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I am mostly worried about the texture visually. While the cream is not sticky and has great slip when applied, visually it looks like white glue due to some air bubbles in it, high gloss and high viscosity. I want a slightly softer, lower viscosity, creamier looking product. What do you think give is the high gloss/high viscosity glue like look and how can I correct it? I suspect the gel emulsifier is creating this issue but not sure.Thanks,
You might want to cut down on the Myristyl Myristate as it tends to increase viscosity, but also give a high gloss to creams. The skin sensorial, however, is excellent. Try 1.5% MM and that will probably help with this.
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Dura Quench from Croda. You can purchase small quantities from MakingCosmetics.com
Cetyl Alcohol (and) Isostearyl Isostearate (and) Potassium Cetyl Phosphate (and) Cetyl Stearate (and) Stearic Acid
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Yes, Marula Oil is very high in Oleic Acid, so I would change it to a high Linoleic Acid profile oil. Also, you don’t seem to have included a film former for TEWL reduction.
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Yes, of course, preservatives in products will also affect the microbes on the skin to some degree, but that does not mean that the preservative will be irritating to the skin. And, the skin biome recovery quickly from any disruption.
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There is a product call “Perfumer’s Alcohol” that is generally used for perfumes … you might want to do a bit of research and see if there is a source in your locale.
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Yes, to create a fragrance profile for the product at the client’s request, but always try to avoid using EO’s that can cause photosensitivity. There are some fragrancing options that are not EO’s and not fragrance oils and I will use these as often as possible, but the set of options are somewhat limited.
For my own personal use and my preference is to use fragrance-free products and this includes products containing EO’s.
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Sodium Benzoate can cause a skin flushing reaction and Benzyl Alcohol can be an irritant, so your alternatives are not really good options if you are trying to substitute preservatives to avoid skin irritation.
Perhaps you could consider something like Honeysuckle Extracts: Lonicera Caprifolium (Honeysuckle) flower extract, Lonicera Japonica (Honeysuckle) or Minasolve Green A: Pentylene Glycol + Phenylpropanol
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But, do take care with Glyceryl Caprylate … you need to add it when your emulsion cools down to room temperature. Even then, you should expect some loss in viscosity that could be significant and, depending on the emulsifiers, it make break the emulsion completely. Be sure to not use more than 0.3%, so you would need to complement it with another preservative.
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#1 contains Caprylyl Glycol and Benzoic Acid, #4 contains Benzyl Alcohol … so, if you are trying to stay away from a preservative that has ingredients that can cause irritation or flushing reaction, your best bet would be #2.
I’ve used it before and it is an effective preservative.
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I am particularly fond of:
Penethyl Alcohol + Pentylene Glycol + Propanediol (Linatural Ultra-3 from Lincoln Fine Ingredients) … very effective and it has a broad pH range.
Dermosoft 1388 from Dr. Straetman’s: Glycerin, Water, Sodium Levulinate, Sodium Anisate.
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If you want a cooling effect, try using Menthyl Lactate. But, the question is: Why do you want to put Menthol in a face wash?
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LOL! … Life Lesson #4: Some peoples is crazy
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Yes, you can get Mangosteen Extract from Bio-Botanica. Another option is Vari Stan PE which is Mangosteen dissolved in Propanediol.
Your best bet would be the Mangosteen Extract in Glycerin from Bio-Botanica. Mangosteen has very poor water solubility and if you dropped-in Vari Stan PE, it would probably become turbid, but perhaps the surfactants would help solubilize it.
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Well, the first question is: Why are you including the acid to begin with? I am assuming this is a hair straightening treatment?
Second question: pH 1.5 - 2.0 for a hair care product?
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You would be better off taking an online cosmetic chemistry course:
http://www.cosmeticlearning.com/
You won’t learn much about cosmetic chemistry from a University unless it is a program specific to cosmetic chemistry.
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Phytic Acid would work for this purpose
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Try Phenethyl Alcohol
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Yes, you are correct that some companies who are not natural have done well. and there are companies that are natural who have done better.
Back to the issue at hand … if you are not adverse to Petrolatum, then you should Petrolatum … you won’t find anything better at reducing TEWL.
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Actually, Natural skincare market growth rate is 30% per annum, granted from a smaller base, whereas the general cosmetics market growth rate is in the 2% to 3% range. You might want to rethink your market assessment.
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My point was also … do you have restrictions on which ingredients you will use … for instance, Petrolatum is a no-go in several target markets so no point in debating the effectiveness of Petrolatum relative to other alternatives if you will not use Petrolatum under any circumstances.
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What target market are you formulating this moisturizer for? That would help evaluate your ingredients in the context of meeting the needs of your intended end-user.
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Congratulations! … you picked a quite unusual and difficult cream to make. The oily feel is primarily from the MgCl water itself which is commonly called Magnesium Oil. If you want to try to reduce the oily feeling, try adding 2% Tapioca Starch at the end of the process.
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Yes, you need to split the 70% water into two components … one aliquot to make the cream and one aliquot to make the MgCl water. Try to concentrate the MgCl in as little water as possible so you have more water in the “emulsion phase” … I have made 35% MgCl solutions … you may be able to go even higher … just check the solubility of MgCl in water and try to supersaturate it.