MarkBroussard
Forum Replies Created
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The EHG in Euxyl 9010 is what is causing the clouding as it is not particularly water-soluble. A touch of PolySugaMulse D9 or other solubilizer should clear it up.
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If you want to make a MAP-based, Vitamin C/Hyaluronic Acid Serum … Yes, 3% to 5% MAP is just fine. The native pH of MAP is in the range 6.0. It is water-soluble and stable, so you will not really need/benefit from BHA/BHT both of which are oil-soluble and will just complicate your formula.
As for Hyaluronic Acid, if you can get it, use a combination of Super Low Molecular Weight HA with a mid-weight HA. The SLMW will penetrate the dermis and the mid-weight will form a TEWL reducing film on the surface of the skin.
Your formula could be as simple as:
Water
MAP (5%)
HA (SLMW) 0.3%
HA (800 - 1200 kDa) 0.7%
Preservative -
… and that is what antioxidants are for … it does not mean these oils cannot or should not be used in cosmetic formulations. The OP wants to use Grape Seed and Rose Hip oils in his/her formula, they are perfectly fine, particularly as bases for a Vitamin E face oil.
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Just because you had one bad experience is no reason to recommend that these oils be avoided completely when they are routinely used in countless commercial skincare products … that’s absurd advice.
All one need to do is add some tocopherol or rosemary CO2 extract, not completely avoid perfectly fine carrier oils … in fact, amongst the best for skincare.
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For “Vitamin E” you’ll best add Mixed Tocopherols + Tocotrienols at 0.2% to 0.5% each. You can purchase each from J Edwards Intl. No point in using Tocopherol Acetate since it does absolutely nothing and all 3 of these are commonly known as “Vitamin E”
As for the carrier oils, there really is no “correct” amounts of these to add together, that will be more a matter of cost and skin sensorial.
To correct the advice you were given above … Grapeseed Oil and Rosehip Oil both have very high lineoleic Acid content, amongst the highest of all carrier oils, and good fatty acid profiles, so they are very good for the skin and absorb rapidly.
So, you might try equal proportions of the carrier oils to start and adjust from there. Jojoba is actually a wax, so it is going to weigh heavier on the skin. If you want a light, fast absorbing oil, then use higher percentages of Grape Seed Oil and Rosehip oil, then a lower amount of Argan Oil and even less Jojoba Oil.
Grape Seed Oil
Rosehip Oil
Argan Oil
Jojoba OilMixed Tocopherols 0.3%
Tocotrienols 0.3%Lavender Oil and Frankincense Oil … mix these to obtain the fragrance profile you like. You might start with a 2:1 Lav:Frank at 0.5% Lavender and adjust from there.
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Yes, absolutely
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What on earth do you mean by “freedom formulation”?
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@Therese:
I guess the real question is: Where did you read this nonsense about blackseed oil and cancer?
As you know, anyone can post anything at any time on the Internet. Best if you check credible sources of information such as: http://www.mskcc.org/cancer-care/integrative-medicine/herbs/nigella-sativa
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You have 17% total oils phase and 6% Cetyl Alcohol, both of which are too high. Lower your total oils to 11% or so and Cetyl Alcohol to 2%. As noted by others, add a second emulsifier, each at 2%. Hydrate your Carbomer in the water phase, form the emulsion and gel the Carbomer as the last step.
I’m assuming you’re trying to make some sort of hair cream?
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It is useless
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Dermosoft 1388 + Phenethyl Alcohol (Dermosoft PEA) is a nice, effective combination.
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I’ve used Emu Oil, Oleic Acid, MSM and Phospholipid-encapsulated “actives,” individually, and in combination with one another, with good success. The best combination I’ve found to be Emu Oil + MSM + Phospholipids or Oleic Acid + MSM + Phospholipids.
DMI has a horrid smell that is very difficult to mask.
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Phenylpropanol is another option that is similar, but has a reduced rose fragrance … of the two, I prefer Phenethyl Alcohol.
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Yes, there is no issue with Aloe Vera, Xanthan/Guar in your formula. Can you clarify … are you using Guar Gum as a thickener or Hydroxypropyltrimonium Guar as a conditioner?
Tego Pearl will work just fine … incorporate in your heated surfactant phase at 3% to 4% should do the trick. If not, just add more.
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If you could clarify: Are you using Citric Acid or Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C) in your formula, or are you using both? It seems that you are perhaps confusing Citric Acid and Ascorbic Acid in your comments …. Citric Acid is not “Vitamin C”
I don’t know exactly what you intend from your formula, but your oil content is very, very high and as noted above, oil suppresses foam formation. You might consider cutting your total oils content down to 1.5% maximum.
There are some cold-process pearlizers, but I doubt that you would be able to purchase from a re-packer. But, you can purchase Glycol Stearate from makingcosmetics.com. Add the Glycol Stearate pellets to Decyl Glucoside and heat the mix to make homogeneous then add the oils and mix to make homogeneous. Add this mixture to your stirring water phase.
Note: To have a better foaming shampoo, your Decyl Glucoside level should be more on the order of 30% to 35%, particularly with the addition of oils. Since Decyl Glucoside is a mild, non-ionic surfactant, you really don’t need a co-surfactant, but since you want a white product, I would consider adding 5% to 10% Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate to your mixture which will turn it white and increase the viscosity.
So, you might consider Decyl Glucoside (30%), Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate (7%), Glycol Stearate (2%), Oils (1.5%).
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Phenthyl Alcohol is an excellent addition as a preservative ingredients and you can use it as a direct substitute for EHG. It is particularly strong against yeast/mold. Your best approach is to make a concoction of Phenethyl Alcohol (50%) and Propanediol or Pentylene Glycol (50%) to enhance solubility. Drop this mixture in at 1% to 1.5%.
When I have trouble with mold, Phenethyl Alcohol is my go to ingredient, hands-down.
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And does the oil separate out over time?
If you want to stick with a cold-process, then try adding a solubilizer … Poly Suga Mulse D9 to help solubilize the oils. This might help make it more clear.
If you want it to be white, but it would be a hot-process, add some Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate and a pearlizer.
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A couple of recommendations:
(1) Mix Xanthan and Guar in Glycerin to form a slurry.
(2) Add Oils to Decyl Glucoside mixing well to make homogeneous
(3) Add Decyl/Oils mixture to stirring water
(4) Drizzle Glycerin/Xanthn/Guar slurry into stirring Step3 mixture
(5) Adjust pH with Citric Acid. Add Optiphen to stirring Step4 mixture
I doubt seriously that 17% Decyl Glucoside is going to solubilize 7.5% total oils … if you give it enough time, this mixture should separate.
Curious, when it turns yellow … is it a translucent yellow or a turbid yellow?
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If you weigh the perceived market benefit of being able to say “Preservative Free” and the incremental sales you would get from that claim versus the potential costs of a product recalls, lawsuits, etc. … even if your “self-preserving” system works … it’s a product people are putting in their mouths on a brush that can lacerate the skin … perfect for an opportunistic infection.
I may be wrong, but I don’t think there is a huge market clamoring for “Preservative Free” toothpaste. I find it ironic that people who knowingly consume preservatives in their food products would have a problem with food-grade preservatives in their toothpaste.
Going back to the OP’s original question, no offense, but it would not appear to me to be particularly knowledgable in the area given the question.
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The initial white color is from the oils in your formula being partially solubilized, but not completely. I’m assuming you’re mixing the oils in the Decyl Glucoside and then adding that mixture to the water phase?
Perhaps the Decyl Glucoside alone is sufficient to solubilize the oils into the water phase and it is taking a few days for complete solubilization which is why it is turning yellow over time.
I’d suspect that if you left it sitting long enough that the oils may separate out into a separate layer? … it’s all a function of how much oil you are adding and how much Decyl Glucoside you are using in the formula.
If you want it to stay white in color, your best bet would be to add a pearlizing agent.
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Vitamin C (L-Ascorbic Acid) is very unstable in water … it oxidizes very qucikly. Vitamin E in the form of Alpha Tocopherol helps stabilize the L-Ascorbic Acid. Ferulic Acid + Alpha Tocopherol better stabilizes the LAA.
(1) HIgh percentages of glycols, such as PG or Ethyoxydiglycol, are added to Vitamin C serum products not as moisturizers, but to reduce the water activity to extend the period over with the Vitamin C oxidizes. You’ll need to add at least 30% Glycol to a Vitamin C serum.
(2) Tocopherol Acetate will not stabilize LAA, so you’re not using the correct form of Vitamin E.
(3) If you are going to add Alpha Tocopherol as your only oil ingredient, then you are better off using a solubilizer … Poly Suga Mulse D9 would be a recommendation.
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Colloidal Oatmeal is actually regulated as an OTC skin protectant Active ingredient in the US. So, any product containing it would be classified as an OTC drug product, particularly if you want to make Eczema claims.
The easiest way to incorporate it is to disperse the colloidal oatmeal in a portion of the water phase, stir this well to create an “oatmeal slurry” and then gradually add it to your cream at cool down. If you don’t first make a slurry you’re going to get oatmeal lumps in your cream that no amount of homogenization will reduce.
It also tends to thin emulsions so you want to add it in small increments with vigorous stirring when your cream has cooled down to 40C or less.
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Sisterna SP70C
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Why complicate your formula for the sake of adding 1% Wheat Germ Oil? The addition of oils requires that you also addd either a solubilizer or emulsifier.
But, if you are intent on including Vitamin E, Wheat Germ Oil and Dimethicone in your formula, then your best bet for emulsifiers would be Glyceryl Oleate or Sucrose Stearate … neither will thicken the formula.
No, you do not have enough Propylene Glycol at 10% … you will want more on the order of 30%.
If you want to thicken it up. hydroxypropylmethylcellulose works well in formulations with a high proportion of propylene glycol.