MarkBroussard
Forum Replies Created
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Of the options you have listed, Linatural MBS would be your best choice as it would be effective over a wider pH range. Load it at 1.0% to 1.5%
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Correct, Oil-Free is a growing category for exactly the reason you have stated. Many consumers do not like the sensorial of oil on their skin … I am one of those consumers who prefers “oil-free” for certain product categories and “dry-oil” formulations for others.
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Dtdang said:@MarkBroussard thanks a lot. I appreciate your inputs. I am very limited knowledge about formulation.For Free oil concept , what ingredients are used to substitute oils? What emulsifier?
thank you very much in advance
Just follow a very simple rule: If an ingredient has the word “Oil” in its INCI name, don’t include it in your product if you want to claim “Oil Free” … it is not universally applicable, for instance, Squalane is an oil, but does not have oil in the name, but it probably covers 90% of the possible ingredients.
Generally, the issue people are looking for with an “Oil Free” claim are products that do not contain any carrier oils. So, instead of carrier oils and other ingredients with the word “Oil” in its name, instead use other emollients … IPM, for instance.
The second point is that “Oil-Free” is purely a marketing term, so you don’t have to be 100% on this … as you noted above, Origins’ products contain essential oils, but they claim “Oil-Free”You can make “Oil-Free” creams with BTMS. Olivem 1000 and some other emulsifiers. Just add the emulsifier to your heated water phase and homogenize just as you do when you have oils in your formula.
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Who’s trolling? … I am explaining the difference between a Dry Oil formula and an Oil Free formula … It’s not a matter of anyone being afraid to ask a question, it’s a matter of people posting incorrect information … that doesn’t help anyone. If you are not sure of your facts, then do some research and post factual information or ask a question if you are uncertain. Easy enough to do.
@Dtdang: It looks like Origins does not consider essential oils to be oils … since Oil-Free is not a legal definition, that’s their prerogative. They can claim it, but strictly speaking, their product is not Oil-Free.
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What you are describing is referred to as a “Dry Oil” formula.
“Oil-Free” formulas as supposed to be exactly that, formulas that do not contain any oil.
Neither of these are Freedom Formulations.
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The other issue is that regulations often lag behind industry, sometimes for a substantial number of years or even decades without being updated to accommodate new technologies and products.
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@Perry:
Not particularly since they are herbal extracts. Here’s a typical INCI for these ingredients:
Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Melia Azadirachta Extract, Curcuma Longa (Turmeric) Root Extract, Lawsonia inermis (Henna) Extract, Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract, Ocimum Basilicum (Basil) Extract, Mica
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Here you go, @chemicalmatt. These are the best I have used … they do not fade over time as do most natural colorants:
http://www.campo-research.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/05/Siddha-Colours.pdf
They’re distributed by Ross Organics in the US.
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You’re not going to fool an educated, discerning consumer who is skilled at reading LOI’s with claims ingredients. In fact, you will just call your credibility into question if you focus your marketing on the claims ingredients instead of the true functional ingredients.
Nothing wrong with putting in Honey and Aloe, just don’t focus on them in your marketing … sophisticated consumers will just gloss over those and they may help attract some less sophisticated consumers.
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Castoryl Maleate is an emollient marketed specifically for the purpose of providing moisturization in body washes. But, it will only be available for purchase in commercial quantities. It is purported to be not readily rinsed off.
You’ll get some refatting properties from the Glyceryl Oleate, but perhaps not as marked as the Castoryl Maleate. Try adding some Glycerin at 1% to 2% and see if that helps.
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pH 5.6
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I find it most interesting that she provides absolutely no scientific support that her products actually work.
It’s a weird marketing schtick: Products Developed By Chemists - Bad; Vitamin C Serums - Bad; Marketing - Bad; My products are better because I have a degree in Biology - Good; I sell a simple combination of carrier oils with a couple of other ingredients for over $100 an ounce - Very Good
The overly broad generalizations are laughable … you have a degree in Chemistry therefore you cannot possibly understand biology.
Oh well … one thing humanity never has to worry about is a shortage of idiots
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Quite seriously … If the INCI does not have the word “Oil” in it then you can “marketing claim” that it is not an oil. But, No, neither Paraffin or PG are considered oils.
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How can you possibly come up with a coherent, cogent marketing story when your product contains 66 ingredients … there’s no focus.
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Am I to understand correctly @Bluewoodg that you intend to apply a 20% SA Peel and will leave it on your skin overnight?
Wart removers are made with 15% SA … Peels are designed to be left on the skin for 20 minutes maximum and then neutralized and rinsed off.
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Way too many ingredients at levels so miniscule they are guaranteed to do absolutely nothing … a sure sign that a product developer does not have a clue what they are doing.
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66 Ingredients … SMH
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Colonial recently outsourced all of their distribution … I suspect they entered into a distribution agreement with Vantage for PolySugaMulseD9 or they sold off the product to Vantage.
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@Perry: Yes, it would have been more compelling if they had included the control for the cream. I guess they were operating under the assumption that the the effectiveness of retinol is well-established by other studies. But, on a head-to-head comparison, it would appear that Bakuchiol’s effectiveness is similar to Retinol, albeit it requires twice as much to achieve similar results.
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Poloxamers are used both a surfactants and to give body to the micellar water when applied to the face so it is not runny … it double-purposes as a surfactant and thickener. PEG-6 C/C glycerides are used as solubilizers to remove oil from the face.
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http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/29947134
www.onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/full/10.1111/bjd.16918
The major difference was that Bakuchiol was applied twice daily and Retinol was applied once daily. So it would appear that Bakuchiol yields results similar to Retinol, but you must use twice as much or twice as often as Retinol to achieve similar results.
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The ease of reverse engineering a product is all function of the complexity of the product you are trying to reverse engineer … some are easy, some are difficult. But, yes, generally it can be done to a close approximation with enough iterations. As mentioned above, it’s a function of how much money you want to spend trying to dupe the reference product. As Pharma mentioned, you can go so far as to employ sophisticated analytic techniques, but that generally is going overboard.
Most clients generally aren’t looking for an exact dupe, but want to create their own variation on the theme.
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Since “Oil-Free” is a marketing term, it can mean anything you want … obviously, if the INCI has the word “Oil” in it, you would think it would be ironic to list this on the LOI and still claim “Oil-Free”
The real question is: Who is the “they” you are referring to? You can determine for yourself what you consider to be an oil.
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Generally, Micellar Waters are not intended to be rinsed off. Rather, applied with a cotton ball or sponge as a leave-on cleanser. They also generally contain just a touch of surfactant, in the 1% to 2% range.
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@kot:
The total amount of HA you will be able to add is going to be limited by the molecular weight of the various hyaluronic acids you are using. If it is a SLMW then there is virtually no upper limit. If it is a mid-range to high mw HA, then it will form a solid gel at somewhere between 1% and 2%.