Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Moisturizing Shower Gel - Ingredient Substitute

  • Moisturizing Shower Gel - Ingredient Substitute

    Posted by gidalbom on December 7, 2019 at 10:42 am

    Hello everyone !

    I’m trying to duplicate / create my own version of a body wash by Korres. I’m not part of a big company, so I’m having trouble finding some of the ingredients since they are only available in large quantities. 

    I was wondering if there are any substitutes for Castoryl Maleate / Ceraphyl RMT. I searched high and low but can’t find any references on the subject.

    Its supposed to give a long lasting moisturizing effect to the skin and it’s commonly used in surfactant rich products. This is the kind of soap you don’t need to use lotion after. 

    Also, if anyone has any options on the % you think this ingredient is being used I’d appreciate any inputs. By analyzing the formula I think it’s 0.5% >

    Water, Sodium Laureth Sulfate, Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Fragrance, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone, Arginine, Benzyl Alcohol, Butylphenyl Methylpropional, Castoryl Maleate, Coco Glucoside, Coumarin, Geraniol, Glyceryl Oleate, Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Hexyl Cinnamal, Hydrolyzed Wheat Gluten, Lactic Acid, Limonene, Phenoxyethanol, Polyquaternium-7, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Chloride, Sodium Dehydroacetate, Sodium Gluconate, Tocopherol

    Thank you in advance !!

    Microformulation replied 4 years, 6 months ago 8 Members · 16 Replies
  • 16 Replies
  • Microformulation

    December 7, 2019 at 4:12 pm
  • ngarayeva001

    December 7, 2019 at 4:25 pm

    Links to ulprospector are useless for anyone who’s not a part of well established business. 

    Here is a couple of points. Are you absolutely sure that it is the ingredient in question that is responsible for moisturising effect? Shower gels are not supposed to moisturise. It’s not their function and whatever you are going to add will be rinsed down the drain unless it’s cationic. I can see a couple of common cationic ingredients in this formula. Long story short what makes shower gel good is right combination of surfactants and a little bit of conditioning ingredients.
  • gidalbom

    December 7, 2019 at 6:08 pm

    @ngarayeva001 thank you for replying ! I’m definitely not sure if that’s the ingredient giving the moisturizing effect, I’m waiting for some ingredients to arrive so I can do a test formula and see how it goes without it. In case it feels too different I wanted to have a substitute in hand.

    I know that shower gels are not supposed to moisturize, but clean instead. I do own this shower gel in question and it’s the only one I use that allows me not to use lotion after. The feeling when rinsing is very slippery and almost feels like the product is not going away, but in a silky & smooth way, not a sticky one.

  • MarkBroussard

    December 7, 2019 at 6:24 pm


    Castoryl Maleate is an emollient marketed specifically for the purpose of providing moisturization in body washes.  But, it will only be available for purchase in commercial quantities.  It is purported to be not readily rinsed off.

    You’ll get some refatting properties from the Glyceryl Oleate, but perhaps not as marked as the Castoryl Maleate.  Try adding some Glycerin at 1% to 2% and see if that helps.

  • ngarayeva001

    December 7, 2019 at 7:46 pm

    I think I understand what type of effect you are trying to achieve and it’s doable with materials available from repackagers. You would need polyquaterniums and/or amodimethicone. It is very hard to suggest amounts because materials can vary significantly. But these ingredients do create that “slippery” feel you are looking for.
    Another important thing is surfactants. As per LOI, there is not too much of CAPB, but this is a thing that makes the product more gentle, so I would add more of it. Be careful with SCI. This is a very tricky ingredient in liquid products. It is my understanding that it’s used at a low % and it’s a pain to work with in general. It needs to be melted and it varies by supplier significantly (and some varieties are absolutely impossible to melt). It tends to recrystallise, so I would skip it at all or replace with another mild surfactant.
    Refatteners are also very helpful in making the product milder. Either glyceryl oleate as mentioned above or PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate. You can also add some kind of hydrolysed protein that would act as a film former, but it’s a pain to preserve and expensive. 

    Feel free to use this as an example. I would not say you don’t need a moisturiser after it at all but it’s less stripping than most commercial products:

    INCI %
    Aqua 41.1%
    Sodium C14-16
    Olefin Sulfonate (ASM 39%)
    SLES (ASM 27%) 30.0%
    PEG-7 Glyceryl
    Betaine (ASM 35%)
    Germaben II 1.0%
    Glycerin 1.0%
    Amodimethicone 0.5%
  • gidalbom

    December 7, 2019 at 8:02 pm


    Thank you very much for your inputs, it gave me a path to follow and good information. I appreciate you !

    I will do some tests and report back 

    Have a great weekend!

  • Gunther

    December 7, 2019 at 9:00 pm

    @gidalbom I wonder if the positive effect you noticed is actually because of the cationic it contains (Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, and Polyquaternium-7 to a lesser degree).

    You can try dropping the anionics (Sodium Laureth Sulfate and maybe Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate too) and try making a bodywash with nonionic surfactants, with small amounts of cationics (cetrimonium, behentrimonium, some polyquaterniums) added for skin conditioning.
    It feels WAY better than those made with SLES.

    About the only problem is that you’ll need an external thickener (like Crothix) to increase viscosity.

    @ngarayeva001 may I ask if you notice any actual beneficial effect from PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate in rinse off cleansers?

  • ngarayeva001

    December 7, 2019 at 10:46 pm

    @Gunther, it’s hard to tell in a body product but I think it makes some difference in a face wash.
    May I ask the reason for dropping anionic and using non-ionic?

  • Dr Catherine Pratt

    December 8, 2019 at 11:04 am

    Less irritating??

  • ngarayeva001

    December 8, 2019 at 3:55 pm

    It depends on particular surfactant. What is more irritating decyl glucoside or sodium cocoyl glutamate?

  • Dr Catherine Pratt

    December 9, 2019 at 5:23 am
    I thought it was the glutamate, what research do you have?
  • ngarayeva001

    December 9, 2019 at 12:52 pm

    There are many suppliers’ charts comparing mildness using various methods, my point is that some anionics are more gentle than non-ionics. There is, unfortunately, no straightforward rule that non-ionic surfactants are milder. The most common non-ionic surfactants for shower gels are glucosides and they are far from mild and not the best materials to work with in general.

  • Dr Catherine Pratt

    December 9, 2019 at 1:11 pm

    Yes I agree, Texapon is still a common ingredient as well.

  • EVchem

    December 9, 2019 at 4:56 pm

    Wasn’t  decyl glusocide named allergen of the year

  • OldPerry

    December 9, 2019 at 6:15 pm

    @EVchem - indeed it was!

  • Microformulation

    December 9, 2019 at 7:22 pm

    Try the Glucam line from Lubrizol.

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