MarkBroussard
Forum Replies Created
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Perhaps there is a forest somewhere in all these trees!
The main issue is the contact time required for the alcohol to denature the viral proteins which is in the range 20 to 30 seconds. It really does not matter if you use a spray or a gel. Simply spray 1 pump wait 15 seconds, spray another pump. Or, use a gel.
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Your Phytic Acid content is quite high at 2%. You might want to consider add the Phytic Acid at the end to adjust the pH to your desired end-point.
Tocopherol Acetate … does absoultely nothing … better to use mixed tocopherols or tocotrienols.
Phase 2: Your total oils/butters is 20%. I would recommend cutting that back to a total of 12% … it will give you a smoother feeling emulsion.
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The nice thing about the glycols is that you also get some preservative boost in addition to moisturization/humectancy.
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If this is a cream, you can use glycerin at up to 5% without any sticky afterfeel … all depends on what else is in your formula.
Glycerin + Propanediol or Pentylene Glycol or Butylene Glycol
If you want to avoid using Glycerin you could use Sodium Lactate, Sodium PCA … as mentioned above Betaine or any combination of all of these.
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Honey is water-soluble, so just treat it like it was your water phase and use any appropriate emulsifier for the type of emulsion you are trying to create … O/W or W/O.
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Most reputable suppliers sell extracts as either a 50%/50% mix of Glycerin/Water + 8% Extract. If you are loading in 1% Extract blend, which is common, you’re actually winding up with a miniscule amount of actual extract in the formula.
As Perry mentioned, if you want an effective formula, look to add the individual compound derived from the extract that has proven to be effective.
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The concept of a “serum” is a simple formula containing few “active” ingredients in higher concentration than you normally find in creams, etc. As Perry mentioned, they are generally quite viscous.
A serum is a very direct, clean formula that generally dispenses with unnecessary claims ingredients and just focuses on the ingredients that achieve the desire effect. Yes, they are relatively simple to develop and manufacture.
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IMHO … neither Essential Oils nor Fragrance Oils serve any benefit to the skin other than scent. So, your tradeoff is something thing that smells good, but also has negative effects on the skin such as photosensitization and/or allergic reaction and really no benefits. But, scent is an important product feature for many consumers.
EO’s and Fragrance Oil most often contain some of the same chemical compounds, so one is not really any better than the other.
Case in point … I recently had a custom fragrance developed that excluded the known fragrance allergens … in working with it, some spilled on a stained concrete floor … it actually dissolved the stain. I’ve never had an essential oil do that.
As general guidance, EO’s from citrus are the most photosensitizing. Floral EO’s tend to be less irritating to the skin. So, Rose, Lavender, etc.
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Yes, just trial and error the % until you get something your test panel likes. Make a 5% batch and see how your customers like it.
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2% or so Cetrimonium Chloride is a good place to start
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I’ll add that there is no category “Medical Grade” cosmetics … “Medical Grade” is a marketing term implying that some of the ingredients used in the product are USP-grade as opposed to Cosmetic-grade
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PAO applies to products with a shelf life of 30 months or more … if your product requires a shelf life of 30 months or more, you have a sales & marketing problem, not a product stability problem. For most consumers, the PAO is when the container is completely empty after they have used all of the product.
This reminds me of the expiration date on fresh food products … it’s an estimate of “peak” freshness, but supermarkets discard tons of perfectly good food products daily when this expiration date is hit. Such a waste.
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I’ll note that all of these brands also sell their products through online channels … diluting the “professionals only” channel strategy. But, presumably they get a boost in consumer’s perception of effectiveness if they are carried in physicians offices and recommended by physicians and estheticians.
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Nope … no difference. It’s a marketing/sales channel strategy that does not have anything to do with the products. There may be some occasions where some ingredients in certain products must be dispensed by a physician, but that would not be common with the lines you have listed in your note.
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The reason you mostly see this approach with LAA is due to its instability in solution.
Mixing LAA powder into a serum immediately before use ensures you don’t get degredation of the Vitamin C over time. Yes, you can add other powder ingredients along with the Vitamin C provided they are readily soluble in water, unless you want the end user consumer to spend some time heating and/or mixing the product … For instance, Hyaluronic Acid would not work, nor would Allantoin.
The most interesting line in the article is that the combination of Tyrosine and Zinc increased the bioavailability of LAA by 20-fold.
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@MJL :
Adding a humectant or refatting agent to a face wash is more beneficial from the perspective of the skin afterfeel … the skin does not feel so “squeaky” clean … you’ll feel this more on your hands than on your face.
Yes, you can use Sodium Lactate in a cleansing product … the issue is that the surfactants are going to do their job and wash off most of it, so it goes down the drain and not on your face.
Better to just create a simple, gentle cleanser and then apply a moisturizing serum or cream after cleansing.
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The way to figure out your issue is to run your powders through a 20 uM sieve. Regrind the residual that is trapped by the sieve … these particles are too large to pass through the sieve and get trapped. Keep doing this until all of your desired volume of powder runs through the sieve. You’ll then know you have a distribution of particle sizes of no greater than 20 uM.
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Correct: Betaine = Trimethylglycin … it’s an osmolyte that helps to retain water and penetrates the hair shaft.
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Add 4% Betaine and 0.5% Babassu Oil or 0.5% Coconut Oil and that will help tame the frizzies.
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General Guidelines:
Plant Extracts 1% or less
Emulsifiers 2% to 4%
Fatty Alcohol Thickeners 2% to 3%
Gums 1% or less
Preservatives 1%
Surfactants 20% for primary, less for secondary surfactants. Shoot for a total surfactant load of 35% to 45%.If you are trying to dupe formulas by looking at list of ingredients, try to find the “!% line” … this will generally be a preservative, but not necessarily so. Regardless, if you find the 1% line … that is an ingredient most likely added at 1%, then all ingredients below that are added at less than 1% and all ingredients that preceed it are loaded at greater than 1% and are in descending order ranked from highest percentage to lowest percentage. As to how much of each, it’s an educated guess.
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Water QS to 100
Slippery elm 1
Aloe Vera 10
Coco betaine 10
Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate 20
Apple cider vinegar 3
Citric acid QS to adjust pH to 5.6
Shea butter .05 to 1 (maximum)
Silk protein 1
Wheat amino acids 1
glycerin 3
Cetyl alcohol DELETE
Xanthan Gum 0.5
Preservative of your choice
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IMHO … CBD has utility in pain relief topical products, but personally I think it is quite useless as an ingredient in a skincare “beauty” cream that is not intended for pain management.
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Yes, you could make a shampoo with only those two surfactants. You might start with 20% SCI and 10% CCG and see what foam profile you get and adjust from there, but those are good starting points.
It is easiest if you grind the SCI into a fine powder, disperse it in cold water with stirring, and then heat it to 80C until all SCI is melted.
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It is unfortunate, but re-packers like MakingCosmetics often modify the INCI to make it a bit different from the ingredient manufacturers that they purchase product from. Presumably, part of the re-packer distribution agreement is that they cannot use the manufacturer’s INCI is the only reason that I can fathom. It’s not all of their products, but some products that have a different INCI from the original product manufacturer’s INCI.
The proper INCI is Shea Butter Glycerides and the manufacturer is Jarchem Innovative Ingredients.
Yes, they work just fine … 3% yields a nice cream. I find them difficult to work with at higher levels as they tend to separate from the water phase.
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Poly Suga Mulse D9 is a fragrance solubilizer … no, it’s not really an emulsifier per se.