Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Difference in formulation between “medical-grade skincare” and over the counter brands

  • Difference in formulation between “medical-grade skincare” and over the counter brands

    Posted by jpsmax on December 28, 2019 at 1:53 pm

    Hello! I am a clinician who sells “medical-grade” skincare products in a physician’s office. Example brands that we sell are: SkinMedica, Obagi, Neocutis, Colorescience, Skinceuticals. What is the difference in the formulation between these lines that are sold direct-to-physician and, say, an over-the-counter line like Drunk Elephant, Glossier, Peter Thomas Roth? Is there a true difference in how “physician-grade” versus over-the-counter skincare lines are developed and manufactured?

    MarkBroussard replied 4 years, 4 months ago 5 Members · 9 Replies
  • 9 Replies
  • MarkBroussard

    Member
    December 28, 2019 at 2:30 pm

    @jpsmax:

    Nope … no difference.  It’s a marketing/sales channel strategy that does not have anything to do with the products.  There may be some occasions where some ingredients in certain products must be dispensed by a physician, but that would not be common with the lines you have listed in your note.

  • jpsmax

    Member
    December 28, 2019 at 2:58 pm

    Thank you for your perspective Mark! In your opinion, do you think there is a difference in the level/quality of clinical testing between medical grade lines and other lines?

  • OldPerry

    Member
    December 28, 2019 at 3:30 pm

    @MarkBroussard is right. The only difference is in the way the products are marketed. 

    As far as there being a difference in testing, there are no products on the market that are more thoroughly tested with a more diverse group of consumers (and in a lab) than the products put out by companies like P&G, Unilever, and L’Oreal. These big companies have money to put into R&D.

    These two “clinical” brands are likely thoroughly tested.
    Skinceuticals - owned by L’Oreal
    SkinMedica - owned by pharmaceutical giant Allergan

    These “clinical” brands likely have the minimal required testing. They focus their business spends on marketing. Brands like Olay have more testing behind them than the following brands.
    Colorescience
    Neocutis  
    Obagi

  • MarkBroussard

    Member
    December 28, 2019 at 3:58 pm

    I’ll note that all of these brands also sell their products through online channels … diluting the “professionals only” channel strategy.  But, presumably they get a boost in consumer’s perception of effectiveness if they are carried in physicians offices and recommended by physicians and estheticians.

  • Pharma

    Member
    December 28, 2019 at 5:30 pm

    The ‘pharmacy only’ cosmetics (we call it ‘dermocosmetics’) we sell here are often slightly different to ‘common’ cosmetics insofar that their ingredients are ‘on the safe side’ and hence, they contain less to no perfume, colours, and known allergens but also less to no plant extracts as well as claim ingredients (well, they often contain 1 or 2 plant extracts and a claim ‘drug’, because, you know…). Some even come +/- without preservatives (airless dispensers). They, not necessarily all but many, contain less and more stable ingredients (synthetics over plant oils) but else, they are just cosmetics and often not even the best made ones; if you sell ‘med grade’ then it’s probably going to be okay if rheology and sensory profile aren’t top notch. It’s just another angle to catch fish in a different corner of the pond.

  • Dtdang

    Member
    December 29, 2019 at 2:46 am

    @Perry! if they claim medical grade skincare, have they to required FDA approve? For testing, they carry the testing by themselves?

    Thanks 

  • OldPerry

    Member
    December 29, 2019 at 3:20 pm

    @Dtdang - No.  The FDA does not “approve” any cosmetic product.  Yes, all testing on cosmetics is done by the manufacturer.

  • Dtdang

    Member
    December 29, 2019 at 3:25 pm

    @Perry thanks a lot
    have wonderful holidays & new year

  • MarkBroussard

    Member
    December 29, 2019 at 3:31 pm

    I’ll add that there is no category “Medical Grade” cosmetics … “Medical Grade” is a marketing term implying that some of the ingredients used in the product are USP-grade as opposed to Cosmetic-grade 

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