[MakingSkincare]

They can but you’d probably need to pay them.  The list above looks like it’s an ingredient list of an existing product so I’m assuming you are looking for a duplication? .

If there’s no budget to hire a formulator, you could learn to do it yourself if you have time to do the proper research - check swiftcraftymonkey’s blog as she uses most of those ingredients.

[MakingSkincare]

Swiftcraftymonkey has some great tutorials on her blog. 

[MakingSkincare]

Yes emmy wax, not sure what that is either.  Or “Jelly” for that matter.  As Milliachemist said, I’d remove the borax.  If you want to condition your hair, you’re better off with BTMS-50 as your emulsifier rather than borax or “emmy”.

If you could convert the ingredient weights to % that would help analyze the formula.  (I notice you areusing 2tsp of colour - weights rather than volume measurements are preferable for accuracy).

Which version of Euxyl do you have?  If its the 9010 version I’d use it at 1.1% and if it’s the K700 version you’ll need to change the pH to below 5 and use at 1.5%.

What is the full name (or INCI) of Anisol?

Here’s an easy to make detangler formula - http://swiftcraftymonkey.blogspot.co.uk/2010/06/conditioners-detanglers-with-incroquat.html and you’ll find other tutorials for hair care products also there.

[MakingSkincare]

Yes that’s right Nasrins

[MakingSkincare]

I agree with Bob but you might find that your lotion is much thinner with those ingredients removed so do add a thickener/co stabiliser such as behenyl alcohol and also a gum.   

You might also try removing the olive oil and add cyclomethicone.  

[MakingSkincare]

Water’s Polarity Index is 10.3.  I’ve copied and pasted some info below:-

Common Oil (CTFA name) Polarity index [mN/m]:-

Non polar Isoparaffin (C12-C14) 53.0 Squalane 46.2 Isohexadecan (ARLAMOL ND) 43.8 Mineral Oil (Paraffin oil perliquidum) 43.7 Mineral Oil (Paraffin oil subliquidum) 38.3 Polar Cetystearyloctanoate 28.6 Dimethicone (silicon oil 20 ct) 26.6 Isopropylpalmitate 25.2 Octyldodecanol 24.8 Dioctyladipate (ARLAMOL DOA) 24.5 Isopropymyristate 24.2 Octylpalmitate (2-ethylhexylpalmitate) 23.1 Hexamethyldisiloxan 22.7 Isopropylstearate 21.9 Carpyl/Caprine acid triglyceride (neutral oil) 21.3 Isopropylisostearate 21.2 Jojoba Oil 20.8 Cyclomethicone (ARLAMOL D4) 20.6 Peanut oil 20.5 Almond oil 20.3 Sunflower oil 19.3 Decyloleate 18.7 Avocado Oil 18.3 Olive oil 16.9 Castor oil 13.7 Calendula Oil 11.1 Wheat germ oil 8.3

Some more useful info here:-

http://www.freepatentsonline.com/y2004/0258654.html

To add to the above, the following are non-polar: cyclomethicone, dimethicone, mineral oil.  

Polar oils/esters etc: c12-15 alkyl benzoate, ppg-3 myristyl ether, octyldodecanol, ppg-11 stearyl ether, ppg-14 butyl ether, triisostearin

[MakingSkincare]

Sounds like your formula isn’t preserved properly.  “Herbal” ingredients are not going to be enough to preserve your product.  Colostrum powder (“bug food”) will be challenge to preserve. I would reduce your % of it drastically.  

There are some preservatives you can use and still call your product “preservative free” - have a look at Glyceryl Caprylate/Dermosoft GMCY, p-Anisic Acid/Dermosoft® 688 eco and naticide which are reviewed here - http://makingskincare.com/preservatives/

Do bear in mind that if you are going to have any hope of the above preservatives working, that there’s a lot more to preservation than just adding a preservative eg reducing water activity, using packaging which minimises contamination in use, microbiological testing of raw ingredients and process water, etc and adding 0.1% disodium EDTA (heated water phase) and glycols will help. Another major factor is the amount of “bug food” in the formula - this often gives overlooked.  I see many people putting goat’s milk, honey, hydrosols, floral waters, aloe vera, extracts, protein, powders, starches etc in their formulas which will really challenge the preservative system.  For more info on this see the link above.

[MakingSkincare]

Try adding 2% cetyl alcohol to your heated oil phase, this will thicken and shouldn’t be draggy.

[MakingSkincare]

If you are looking to make a product for yourself, swiftcraftymonkey’s blog is a invaluable resource.

[MakingSkincare]

Niacinamide doesn’t do so well below pH5 (hydrolysis). 

The glucosides don’t tend to thicken well with crothix, try HPMC instead. It takes a long time to hydrate though.

Cocamidopropyl betaine is a good foam booster and the electrolytes in it can help with thickening too.

[MakingSkincare]

Try sorbitan sesquicaprylate (ANTIL SoftSC) 

[MakingSkincare]

That’s a great idea Bob

[MakingSkincare]

The link I posted above has a review of Leucidal.  But note, there’s a lot more to preservation than just adding a preservative eg reducing water activity, using packaging which minimises contamination in use, microbiological testing of raw ingredients and process water, etc and adding disodium EDTA and glycols will help. Another major factor is the amount of “bug food” etc in the formula. This often gives overlooked - I see many people putting goat’s milk, aloe vera, hydrosols, floral waters, extracts, protein, starches etc in their formulas which will really challenge the preservative system. Ultimately it’s best to get your product safety tested.

[MakingSkincare]

You might want to reduce your % of sodium benzoate as 1% is double what is normally used.  Sodium benzoate is moderately good against gram+ve bacteria, yeast and moulds, but moderately poor against gram-ve bacteria so you’ll need to add another preservative to cover that.

[MakingSkincare]

There are many “natural” preservatives you can use.  See this link for reviews of many of them - http://makingskincare.com/preservatives/

For accuracy, it is best to use weight measurements rather than volume (ml) and use % so you can see the proportions.  You may also need to increase the % of your poly 20 to solubilise the essential oils.  

pH strips are inaccurate, I would invest in a pH meter.

[MakingSkincare]

For accuracy, it’s best to use weight measurements rather than volume (tsp) and use % for your base formula so you can see the proportions.

I would advise to first learn the very basics of making a lotion/cream and then once you have a few successful lotions/creams under your belt, then progress onto learning how to add more tricky ingredients like salicylic acid etc. 

Here’s a tutorial - http://makingskincare.com/how-to-make-a-lotioncream-part-1-equipment-and-ingredients/ and swiftcraftymonkey also has tutorials.

[MakingSkincare]

Some ingredients in preservatives can cause yellowing eg sorbic acid and dehydroacetic acid.

[MakingSkincare]

Some information which will help you - http://itsallinmyhands.com/2013/04/23/on-surfactants-and-formulation-face-wash-shampoo-and-shower-gels/

[MakingSkincare]

The percentages of surfactant are low so I’d increase them and add betaine.  What detergent are you making - body wash? hand wash? 

[MakingSkincare]

Can you convert your formula into % Bimsmide?

[MakingSkincare]

to be effective, try pH 3.8

[MakingSkincare]

Have a look here - http://makingskincare.com/preservatives/

[MakingSkincare]

Swiftcraftymonkey has tutorials on making shampoo which I think you will find helpful.

[MakingSkincare]

What cst is your dimethicone??  Have you also tried using powder binders too like magnesium stearate?

[MakingSkincare]

Re preservatives and pH - http://makingskincare.com/preservatives/

Swiftcraftymonkey has some good posts on pH and how it relates to the skin