LincsChemist
Forum Replies Created
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It’s possible if you’ve only seen this happen with a new batch of alcohol that they’ve added a denaturant that is in some way incompatible with your colouring
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Your best bet is to speak to a company that specialises in preservatives - either Schuelke or Thor would be a good start. They’ll be able to recommend something that fits your needs.
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From personal experience, getting an SPF tested to the point it’s acceptable to sell is a time-consuming and costly business. 10-12K does seem excessive though - generally I’ve been quoted £3-4K for in-vivo testing. It’s also not unusual for the first attempt to not reach your target SPF. I’d recommend you look at either AMA Labs in the States or ProDERM in Germany for in-vivo. You can sometimes get in-vitro done for free if you ask whoever is providing your SPF blockers very nicely.
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They’re all relatively straightforward materials to source individually, so I’d consider looking into that rather than trying to track down the manufacturer of this particular blend
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Not sure about retail, but Croda sell it as Cithrol 10GTIS, and IMCD distribute (in the UK at least) Nikkol TGI-20.
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You’ll probably want to add a small amount of citric acid to drop the pH to 4.5 - 5 for the preservative to be most effective; only way to be sure that it’s working is to get a challenge test done though.
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Any plant-based higher melting point wax or butter should thicken your oil when melted in - try shea or cocoa butter, heat & mix then cool.
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Try Parsol ZX from DSM, distributed by ADINA Cosmetic Ingredients (https://www.cosmeticingredients.co.uk/ingredient/parsol%C2%AE-zx)
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What’s your BTMS level? It can also be irritating. You could also try upping your stearyl alcohol percentage, as fatty acids are known to reduce the irritation potential of cationic surfactants.
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How much do you need and what is your budget?
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Olivem 1000 (Cetearyl Olivate & Sorbitan Olivate) is a good go-to PEG-free, relatively “natural” emulsifier, compatible with most things I’ve tried it with, not cheap though. Use it in combination with some fatty alcohol.
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K940 is approximately 40% Phenoxy, 40% Benzyl Alcohol and 20% Ethylhexylglycerin (from the MSDS). So you could get close by adding benzyl to PE9010, but not to quite the same ratio.
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Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Copolymer is good for this (one of many available Carbopol grades).
What are you neutralising with? This can make a big difference in hydroalcoholic systems - TEA or AMP will work much better than NaOH
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Is the coconut oil you’re using a refined grade? I’ve had problems in the past with unrefined coconut oil. Shea can also be nightmare in these sort of products.
As above, I’d probably drop your beeswax down and add maybe 2-3% Carnauba wax to regain that firmness.
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Cost reduction: buy cetearyl alcohol and coco-glucoside separately (at a guess you’re using Montanov 82 currently?), consider grapeseed oil (high linoleic content) instead of pure linoleic acid.
Long term moisturisation: I beleive there’s some quite good data behind saccharide isomerate (aka Pentavitin).
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@essenceofllama I used 10% - it’s pretty mild though, so I’d think you would get away with 15%
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You can usually get away with potassium sorbate/sodium benzoate for “natural” formulations - restriction on pH is a downside though
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I’ve had success making an oil-to-milk with the PEG-20 glyceryl triisostearate on its own, so you may not need the PEG-10 at all
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I don’t know where you’re planning to sell this product, but it’s worth bearing in mind that the maximum permitted concentration of TEA in the EU is 2.5%
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Try Sytenol A by Sytheon - it’s distributed by Rahn in Europe but I don’t know about Singapore
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Thanks very much - I’ll give the slurry technique a try!
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Thanks! I have a silverson in the lab, but my issue has been in preventing the silica pluming out of the top of an open beaker - did you make/buy some sort of lid that the supports and rotating axle could fit through.
In manufacturing our vessel is fitted with a rotor/stator type homogeniser - do you know if this would be sufficient or is an in-line homogeniser essential?
I’ve tried to get in touch with Evonik about this - haven’t heard back yet, but good to know they offer a lot of technical support.
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You may already be aware of this, but dogs have much a more neutral skin pH than humans - make sure your formulation is around pH 7 and buffered to stop pH creep.