ketchito
Forum Replies Created
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Bars made with natural waxes only as hardening agents, tend to be hard but brittle. You’re better off using fatty alcohola and/or glyceryl stearate.
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Hi! I actually talked with a brazilian cosmetic scientist, and he mentioned that consumers, because they wanted to make a specific hair style, they used a lot of the product. At higher concentration than usual, many products can have some irritation potential.
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I agree with previous comments. Add CAPB before your anionic. Also, make sure you have a good final viscosity, which also contributes to your product stability.
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Not sure if what you see at the bottom is your Cationic guar. Keep in mind that CAPB can have up to 5-7% of NaCl, and you’re using quite a lot of CAPB. Non-ionics like Glucosides have certain level of tolerance towards ionic salts, maybe that’s what’s happening. Could you replace your Glucoside for an anionic surfactant (like a sulfonate or any other anionic?)
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Do you have a picture of what you’re seeing?
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Could you add PVP right after Carbomer (before TEA), let the mixture release some air, and then neutralize it?
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@SnowBunnyChemist Could I see the data on PUFA’s best effect on skin care products?
@FVDK I’d be cutious on formulating hair care products with FFAA. They can be irritating to the scalp (the oleic acid you mentioned, is linked in the irritation part of seborreic dermatitis, formed as a by product of triglyceride’s metabolism from Malassezia yeast).
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I’d go for the 4:1 molar ratio. With the 3:1 you’d have a more stable product, but in the practice, BTAC is a heavy conditioning agent for hair, so I’d not go as high as 3%. Perhaps you could use 5% of Cetearyl alcohol, and from there, calculate how much BTAC you’d need for your 4:1 ratio.
In terms of Ceteareth-20, any addition to this system would help. Btw, can you make a sample without Sodium chloride? Systems in which the main emulsifier es ionic (in this case, BTAC), the addition of an inorganic salt could destabilize the system.
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Here’s and extract from a very interesting paper:
“penetrate the epidermis, inducing an increase in stratum corneum turnover and cause desquamation of the outermost layer without impairing barrier function [21]. They reduce intercorneocyte bonds by increasing the distance between corneocytes due to increased stratum corneum water content, by reducing the charges on the surface of cells, by inhibiting enzymes involved in the cohesion between corneocytes, and by breaking desmosomes as they diminish the pH of the medium. This reduction can also degrade keratinocytes directly, thus promoting cell proliferation”.
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My background in chemistry is that I’m a chemist ????
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Yes, but antioxidants don’t only protect your FFAA in a formula, but also, your fragrance, your dyes, etc. For me, antioxidants and chelants are always a must in a formulation.
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You can use 0.2% of Cat Guar, just use the one for clear systems…or use PQ-10.
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It’d better if you post your formula. Ceteareth-20 is used as a main emulsifier. The advantage is that you only need low levels (like 0.2-0.3%), but again, that depends on your formula.
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Saturated FFAA are more stable than unsaturated and polyunsaturated, because they don’t have double bonds, which are prone to attack by for instance, oxidants.
Yes, a way to protect these double bonds is by using an antioxidant (tocopherols are ok, but synthetic ones work even better).
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The system PQ-7/SLES/CAPB is salt sensitive. On your current sample, you could try increasing the SLES or increasing the pH.
To avoid having to use so much salt in your system, you could use more CAPB or a rheology modifier.
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I’d be better to know what’s in your formula, but some polymers can coil due to the high amount of salts, reducing transparency.
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I believe you need hydroxyl groups to be present in your oil. Among natural oil, I believe Castor Oil is the only one that has hydroxyl groups, and that’s why it works as a gelling agent for other oils.
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It’s hard to tell. I would guess it might be fragrance oxidation (0.1 Tocopherol in a cleanser, not enough) or contamination (if you’re using only DMDM hydantoin, your falling short, unless it’s Glydant Plus or similar, which comes with IPBC).
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The industry is for sure regulated. There might be some areas for improvement, but there are regulations. The best sources are as usual, independent studies published in peer-reviewed journals, info from regulatory agencies and technical books (Cosmetic Science and Technology comes to my mind, as well as books from CRC).
Tegarding Tinosorb M, to my knowledge, it hasn’t been approved as a sun filter in the USA…but if you’re in Europe, that should be fine. It’s mostly used as a booster for other filters, although it can act as a primary filter. TiO2 and ZnO are good part of a robust sun filtering system, but are not enough to give full and high protection. Mixing them with organic filters is a better approach.
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Just out of curiosity, is the problem that your product has low viscosity and you want it higher?
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This is where Ceteareth-20 comes to play. It can thicken and stabilize the system you’re working on. You can try from 0.2% onwards.
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I usually use sodium lauroyl sarcosinate. I love glutamates, but the ones I tried, killed my viscosity (although, if you don’t mind some extra money to bring viscosity back, they are fine). Now, to make your system milder, you better add something like CAPB or an amine oxide.
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I’m glad it worked! Glucosides are nice, but they don’t work the same in all systems. Good luck.
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Call me skeptic, but I like solid data ????. I checked the site from your link, and they mention only two papers about topic use of these oils. By the way, papers are from 1974-1975, and they were about a very specific defficiency. In the case of one of them, you can even read this:
“Control patients who were not malabsorbers and were not deficient in essential fatty acids showed none of these changes after cutaneous application of sunflower-seed oil.”
So, in people without the defficiency, there were no changes in TEWL, scaling, etc after topical application of the product.
There are better molecules to address skin issues, and to me, vegetable oils at functional doses have more drawbacks than benefits.
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Thanks. I was asking for a study about Acetyl Octapeptide-3. Here’s what I found after checking your references:
1. In the first article, there’s not even a single reference to peptides.
2. For the second one, “The Open Nutraceuticals Journal” has such a low impact factor, that I wouldn’t consider it a trusted reference; nevertheless, there’s no mention to Acetyl Octapeptide-3 and basically they talk about ingested collagen peptides.
3. The third paper does study the efficacy of an acetylated and amidated peptide, but it’s a hexapeptide not an octapeptide (plus, there’s some conflict of interest, so there’s risk for bias).
4. For the fourth, I believe you wanted to write “The Anatomy of the Aging Face: A Review”. There’s no mention to any peptide.
5. and 6. Those two books barely talk about peptides (for the last one, you meant “Aesthetic Procedures: Nurse Practitioner’s Guide to Cosmetic Dermatology”, right?)