ketchito
Forum Replies Created
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Let’s start then with a very basic formula. Try 2% of CETAC, 2% of dimethicone, and 1% of cyclomethicone. If it separates over time, add 0.1-0.2% of ceteareth-20. If this gets a bit thicker, add 2-3% of either glycerin or propylene glycol.
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What’s the pH of your product? If it’s acid, check with your supplier if the fragrance is stable at that pH.
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Remove glycerin and reduce both hydrolyzed protein and panthenol to 0.1-0.01%.
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Lubrizol
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Dispersion Techniques for Carbopol Polymers Technical Data Sheet
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Specialty Chemicals - The Lubrizol Corporation
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With that amount of fragrance and polysorbate 20, I see your foam will not be as good as it could. I haven’t seen cleansing formulas with more than 1% of fragrance, the usual levelbis around 0.5%. Polysorbate will for sure impact (negatively) foam and viscosity. If you reduce your fragrance, you won’t need as much polysorbate. Also, you could increase your betaine and even add something like Cocamidde DEA.
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What’s the type of smell you perceive? If it’s “fishy”, that’s normal due to the nitrogen-based ingredients you’re using.
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I agree with @Perry44 about the oxidation. Now, what could happen is that your vaseline wasn’t as refined as some others, and those traces could contain materials prone to oxidation.
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I love the artistry and creativity. If you want to make it more challenging, add some ink to the combo, and of course, some red wine (either a cheap one, or perhaps a bottle that a bad boyfriend gave you long time ago).
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You could try with liquid emulsifiers, like Polysorbate 20, laureth-9 and PEG-40 HCO (the last one can be a bit thicker than the other ones). Now, to Spray the product, you don’t need it to be completely liquid; there are sprayable products in the market with certain thickness (I’ve seen some at up to 12,000 cps).
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Gels don’t have oil phases (unless you are formulating a cream gel, which is a different type of product). If you want a crear gel, remove all your oily materiales, since you’re forming an emulsion (that’s why the white color). By the way, I don’t see any styling polymers in your formula.
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W/O emulsions are inherently resistant to water, at least more than O/W. I’m not an expert on W/O emulsions, but I know that manufacturing process (especially the low addition) is key, as well as to choose the right emulsifiers and adding salt.
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Vitamin E (Tocopherols, not the Acetate form) is an antioxidant, and very low amounts are usually needed. I’d recommend you to keep it but in a dose around 0.1%.
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Arginine is an aminoacid, not a protein. Actually, for conditioning, a protein hydrolyzate could work a bit better for conditioning (although large peptides form brittle films). Even better if that hydrolyzate is quaternized.
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I’d choose Amodimethicone and some of the Dimethiconol gum in Cyclopentasiloxane (#2). Btw, you could get rid of the glycerine here.
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I’d just focus on balancing the surfactant system and using some film former like some silicone. If you have a clear system, PEG-12 dimethicone could be a good option.
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That’s because your forming an emulsion since you have an emulsifier, an oil and a water source (ethanol still has some water in it). Remove the oil or use it at very low levels.
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No cosmetic product can make your hair to grow. There are only two chemicals approves by FDA for this purpose (Minoxidil and Finasteride), and they both fall in the cathegory of drugs. Cosmetic active that supposedly have “clinical trials” backing them up for hair growth, fail when systematic reviews are conducted, wether because of lack of good studies or for risk of bias of the ones available.
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I think that’s the only way small brands can compete with big ones, riding every new wave of fear mongering, since they don’t have the resources (both budget and technical) that big companies have. If you check patents, they are mostly from big companies that can invest in R&D. The same happens with papers presented at big events like the IFSCC congress. Also, since small brands can’t many times afford to even have a chemist (or similar) in their team, they rely either on formulas given by a contract manufacturers or by a supplier. You’d barely see fancy ingredients in the “backbones” of big brand’s formulas, just pure science…while a small brand will have many of not really solid science-based ingredients.
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There are different ways to build viscosity. You can do by mixing surfactants (as you mentioned, some anionic with specific amphoterics help you reach micellar arrangements that give some shear resistante, like worm-like micelles). There are several ecamples in the literature. Inorganic salts like sodium chloride help you reach these micellar structures faster. You can also use polymers to create entanglements between your micellar structures, or to just swell your solvent reducing movement between molecules.
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It’s usually the formula itself rather than a single ingredients what deliver the benefits. What is the benefit you want to communicate?
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I think I might regret this, but could you share the peer-reviewed literature that you reviewed? It is a bit odd that all of those toxicologists (many of them independent) agree on the safety of those materials, while some organizations like the EWG which has less than qualified “reviewers” reached to different conclusions.
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There’s a reason why companies don’t use that much fragrance in these type of products, and it’s the risk of skin irritation/sensitization. Will you perform a clinical study in a certified lab, to check your product is safe in use?
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Thank you @chemicalmatt ????. Indeed, it was a typo (one of the mechanical ones -damn keyboard-, not the brain ones, which I also have a lot of, hehe).
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Your hair gets a lot of moisture from water during your shower. After that, what you want is to restore its hydrophobicity. That’s the one responsible for all the mechanical and optical features of a healthy hair.
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No worries. Probably the products you saw put just few drops of oils, enough so polysorbate 20 would solubilize them. Good you’re using PV/VA copolymer. You could add some PVP if you want more fixation (but not so much, since it’s very hygroscopic).