ketchito
Forum Replies Created
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Could you make a test removing Plantapon SF? The amphoacetate there is an amphoteric surfactant, which at low pH, can behave as a cationic, giving that you’re below its pKa (which I didn’t check, but the test is still worth to be done).
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How are you mixing your acrylates (type of mixer, time and speed)?
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I have a trick: keep a high temperature during the whole emulsion process (75-80°C)…then, keep that same temperature for 10-15 extra minutes, but lower the mixing speen at 100-200 rpm (this will help remove most of the foam).
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You can use Carbopol 674: https://www.ulprospector.com/es/la/Cleaners/Detail/11384/35242/Carbopol-674-Polymer?doc=1173493&st=20&bplogin=success
ulprospector.com
Carbopol® 674 Polymer por Lubrizol - Productos de Limpieza, Domésticos, de Marca e Industriales
Carbopol® 674 polymer is a lightly crosslinked polyacrylic acid polymer powder. This polymer provides suspension at low product viscosity and improves f...
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You can check this thread on the topic:
https://chemistscorner.com/cosmeticsciencetalk/discussion/polar-value-of-oils-and-other-lipids/
chemistscorner.com
Polar Value of Oils and Other Lipids - Chemists Corner
Hi,Are there books or resources on polar values of oils and other lipids (other than the 2 articles on free patent) please?Following my last post…
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Chances are some oils and waxes are not compatible (different polarity can impact miscibility when mixed), so you better check that before. A non-ionic surfactant like the polysorbate you have is more useful when there’s water present, because it acts better in a protic media.
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Let’s put it this way, if that formula was an artery, not even plaques would clog it 🙂
There are several papers and books on the effect of both inorganic salts and CAPB to build viscosity of different anionic surfactants, but since you don’t have any anionic, they are useless.
Both Aloe Vera and Glycerin are useless in a cleansing product…not only they impair viscosity and foam without any real benefit, they increase the contamination risk of your formula. For sure the preservative you have will be overwhelmed by them.
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Can you make a sample without glycerine?
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Chances are your BK is binding to you dye (anionic), and when you add your acid thickener, your BK binds to that one instead and releases your dye (that’s why you see that color change). I remember these products use anionic surfactants instead, but to confirm, make a sample without BK.
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You might have just made a buffer yourself. If you managed to neutralize half of you acetic acid for instance, then you might have created a 4.5 pH buffer. The frst reading you had at around 6 is the free sodium hydroxide, because your system didn’t reach equilibrium. Working with that amount of acids is very hard indeed. I’d just theoretically find the amount of NaOH to make a pH 6 buffer, and use that as a starting point…but that means you’ll have to consume quite some NaOH. As a side note, your preservative actually has a chelant (the organic acid, but it’s just a very poor one), and In fact, more than a preservative, it’s a booster. Please use a more robust preservative system. Or get rid of the peptide (not doing anything really) and embrace benefit yourself from the low pH of your system (4.5 is OK for your type of product, which would make it possible to work with many preservatives).
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Do you mean something like Steareth-2 and Steareth-12? I remember Unilever doing that for their antiperspirants. I believe it’s just for producing a very robust emulsion. Also, keep in mind the amount of electrolytes those type of emulsions should support (because of the aluminium salts).
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If at 60°C you’re at your PIT and some water has evaporated, then that could be the reason. More reason to follow @PhilGeis ‘s advice about the stability temperature.
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You can increase your CAPB a bit, and check again if NaCl increased the viscosity. Also, for transparent systems, you could use PEG-12 dimethicone, between 1-2%.
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You might be experiencing heat stability issues. Do you need yo heat? Maybe you can try premixing the ingredient with an ingredient that makes it more soluble.
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The problem is clearly PEG-40 HCO, not only impairs viscosity but also foam. You’d be better off without essentisl oils, using a regular fragrance (they normally come with their own solubilizer), and without the need to add PEG-40 HCO.
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You need something to add lubrication, and for that, silicones are kings (or queens). Are you up to use silicones? Or not really? Chances are the benchmark you chose also leaves hair tangled.
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I assume your issue is phase separation. What’s your final pH? That little sodium hydroxido won’t be enough to neutralize your Stearic acid, so you won’t have enough emulsifier. Also, Stearic acid is not the best emulsifier, especially to work with such waxed, even with the help of your sodium lauroyl glutamate. Either change your Stearic acid for something like PEG-100 stearate (and) Glyceryl stearate, or add the needed amount of sodium hydroxide to properly neutralize your stearic, and replace part of your waxes by cetearyl alcohol. Also, Cyclotetrasiloxane is already banned.
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I agree with @abdullah. The first product is not really an emulsion. You can remove from your formula Ceyl alcohol and the Polyorbate, and start tesring with 0.5% of your anionic surfactant.
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I totally agree with @Perry44 . And that’s the resonan the gold standard in clinical trials is to have it double-blinded, since even the researcher himself could be biased. Bias is one of the best tools ingredients suppliers use to sell their
products.
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Few things actually could be happening. First, Xanthan gum needs to also be hydrated before surfactants are added, with high mixing and for some time. Also, you’re not neutralizing your Acrylates…, so you won’t let it unfold and hydrate properly; plus, you won’t get viscosity from it at low pH. Also, your isethionate might not me stable for long at very low pH. Remove that Glycerin, please. And if you want to use Polyquaternium-10, mix it and hydrate it separately.
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Proposición 65 is not a science based document. The risk comes because of secondary amines, which are impurities from the quaternization process (secondary amines are present in most cationics, at very low levels). Now, secondary amines themselves are not harmful, it’s only when they’re converted into nitrosamines. For that to happen, you need a nitrosating agent, which current cosmetics barely have. Also, you can minimize the risk by having an acidic pH in your formula (this neutralizes amines).
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I think you better find another chamber to do the stability. There might not be annything wrong with your formula, just a very unrealistic stability temperatura.
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Just as an experiment, remove your coco-glycoside and increase Lamesot PO65 up to 5% (as is). I see on the manufacturer’s website that tests are done at the highest recommended dose, and the Garnier product actually has it at high level, so let’s see if the magic occurs at that dose. If positive, you can start dosing down until you find a confortable level.
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As I recall, Sodium cocoyl isethionate being an ester, is prone to hydrolysis (especially acid). Below a pH of 6, this starts being an issue. Now, at a pH of 5 or close to 4, your acrylates are not properly neutralize so, you don’r have viscosity from this and it has reduced solubility. Even though glycerin helps de-agglomerate your xanthan gum before mixing with water, it can impair foam. Xanthan gum can be perfectly mixed in water, providing that you do it at the start. You actually don’t need these polymers in your system to get viscosity: isethionate is salt responsive, so add some Cocmidopropyl betaine and some salt (if you don’t want to add salt, add some Cocamide DEA or similar).
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Can you make a sample without BHT? Sometimes it reacts with nitrogen compounds, giving a yellow color.