[KarolinaPL]

I would say polyquats . If i’m doing shampoo without silicone i often use 
Polyquaternium 7

[KarolinaPL]

Thank you all. Finally I made formula with SOS ( becouse of better foaming) . I added 18% AOS, 8 betaine, 5,5  lauryl Glucoside and 1%Lauryl Lactyl Lactate. It’s much better, it doesn’t make my hair dull but it doesn’t make hair smooth either. Anything else i can add? I was thinking about another silicone but don’t know which one will work here

[KarolinaPL]

ariepfadli said:

KarolinaPL said:

ariepfadli said:

Its seem you formulation too much Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate, which really good to cleaning hair with excellent detergency, it make low possibility for your silicone and cationic material to deposit to your hair, and make it dull,try total surfactant( SOS, betaine,ALS, and cocoamide DEA around 12-18%, you will see the difference

For my first formula, total  surfactants amount by active matter  is 15.7, and for the second, 16.2. So it’s in the range of 12-18%

1st formula: 11.2 (SOS)+6 (CAPB)+1.6(DEA)+1.5(PEG 7 cocoate =20.3 total surfactant

2nd formula: 8.75 (25%*35% ALS)+3.9 (CAPB)+ 1(lauryl Glucoside) +1(coco-Dea)=14.6

Try to adjust you pH arround 6-6.5

thank you for correcting me, i don’t know how i calculated this 

[KarolinaPL]

ariepfadli said:

Its seem you formulation too much Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate, which really good to cleaning hair with excellent detergency, it make low possibility for your silicone and cationic material to deposit to your hair, and make it dull,try total surfactant( SOS, betaine,ALS, and cocoamide DEA around 12-18%, you will see the difference

For my first formula, total  surfactants amount by active matter  is 15.7, and for the second, 16.2. So it’s in the range of 12-18%

[KarolinaPL]

Abdullah said:

They are not the problem. 
The problem is too much betaine, DEA and silicone

Thank you for your answer. I tried to lower DEA and betaine but it doesn’t smooth hair anyway. I’m not sure about the silicone reduction… The client wants the shampoo to not tangle the hair and leave the hair smooth, so silicones sound like the best option for me 

[KarolinaPL]

my formula keeps getting better, but the soap is opaque and leaves tiny white lumps on the eyebrows. I want to add Peg-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil. This should help with my clarity, but I’m not sure what I can do with the white flecks

[KarolinaPL]

Bill_Toge said:

phenoxyethanol is stable up to 120 °C; I wouldn’t recommend using DMDM hydantoin above about 60 °C

thank you .

[KarolinaPL]

I have one more problem. When i’m adding PVP (2%) , soap turns opaque. Would dimethicone or isopropyl myristate help? 

[KarolinaPL]

@Bill_Toge @Stanley . thank you for your answears. I am still wondering if it is possible to make eyebrow soap on steareth-21 and get transparent soap . I also wonder about the preservative - the mass remains liquid up to 80oC. Will any preservative be able to handle this temperature? I was thinking about  DMDM Hydantoin or phenoxyethanol

[KarolinaPL]

Stanley said:

Use beeswax does your client have a benchmark?

He want to have sth similar to Lash Brow Soap Brows https://sklep.lashbrow.pl/en_US/p/Soap-brows-Lash-Brow/694

Unfortunately beewax is not an option for him

[KarolinaPL]

Bill_Toge said:

what’s the K number of the PVP you’re using?

K-90 and K-30. But I got better results with 90

[KarolinaPL]

Stanley said:

you can do a brow gel with glycerin soap and fibers to it..

My client said that he doesn’t want to have any detergent/ NaOH etc in his brow soap

[KarolinaPL]

I saw that the label states China as the country of production, so I decided not to stick to the ingredients on the label. I replaced steareth with ceteareth-20 (40%) and managed to achieve a clear semi gel, but it is still too sticky.