[justyna_lenka]

UV Filters thoroughly dissolved in emollients to prevent crystallization. With such high concentrations of filters as you have, you need to add a lot of emollient, preferably a light one: Isoamyl laurate, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride. It is best to use at least about 10-15% and heat the filters in it until it is fully dissolved, and only then combine it with the rest of the fat phase.

Regards

[justyna_lenka]

Maybe it would be worth adding powder that absorbs excess fat? Corn flour, rice flour, some form of cellulose?

[justyna_lenka]

Olivem 1000 as an emulsifier was probably added to improve the removal of the product from the face - which I fully understand. I have created and continue to create similar recipes 🙂 and unfortunately, Shea butter has a tendency to crystallize. My advice:

1. reduce the amount of Shea butter to a maximum of 5-6% percent, you can replace it with mango butter or make a mixture of them if you do not want to lose the “butteryness” of the product.

2. To what temperature do you heat this mixture to dissolve and combine? 80 degrees Celsius for a few minutes would be ok.

3. Do you cool the product by stirring? Once melted, do you pour it into a container and leave it to set? Stirring while cooling also helps, especially when the recipe includes Olivem 1000 (it will create a different structure).

4. If possible, I also recommend homogenizing the mass while cooling (below 40 degrees Celsius)

good luck and best regards

[justyna_lenka]

The form of the product base also influences the feeling of cooling/warming effect. Water-based products (gels, shampoos) will have a stronger effect (especially cooling) than emulsions - it turns out that fat somehow cancels out the effect of menthol? therefore, it may be difficult to achieve the desired effect with the balm.

We managed to prepare a body lotion recipe combining the raw material Menthol, Menthyl Lactate and a small addition of Camphor.

But feeling cold is probably a very individual matter, because some people felt cold, e.g. on their legs, and others did not.

We added <i class=””>Vanillyl Butyl Ether to the warming body lotion 🙂

[justyna_lenka]

first of all - I think you are asking about Emulium Mellifera MB? If so - it doesn’t make much difference whether you use cetearyl alcohol or cetyl alcohol - both should help thicken and stabilize the formula. However, from my experience, I would like to suggest adding another stabilizer - Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate. It may be difficult without it 😉 0.3-0.4% is enough.

I would increase the amount of Emullium Mellifera (to 4%) and reduce the amount of alcohol - the emulsion will be lighter and more pleasant (especially for oily and acne-prone skin).

pH around 5.5 for niacinamide should be ok 🙂

Introducing (or more specifically dissolving) salicylic acid may not be so easy - what are you planning?

[justyna_lenka]

Hello from Poland! 😉

In fact, washing products (like the facial cleansing gel you are writing about) sometimes need to use water-soluble fragrances to better combine with the formula, and our experience shows that they smell less - but we know that this is also a matter of the specific composition. A dose of 0.1-0.2% is quite little, but we often use even 0.5% to cover the smell of other raw materials (mainly detergents).

If you want to take advantage of the offer of a domestic fragrance manufacturer - I recommend contacting Aroma Praha https://www.aroma.cz/cs 🙂

Regards!

[justyna_lenka]

In fact, in such a case, the allantoin concentration may also crystallize. Do you dissolve it hot in the water phase?

We probably did not manage to make a stable recipe with an amount of more than 0.6% of allantoin, otherwise it crystallized in the refrigerator stability tests.

[justyna_lenka]

Yes, that’s right, the PHENYLBENZIMIDAZOLE SULFONIC ACID (PBSA for short) recipe should have a pH of approximately 6.8-7.1, below that it may crystallize

[justyna_lenka]

I don’t know on what scale you would like to do it, we use anchor and paddle mixers in the laboratory and in production. On a smaller scale - I suggest trying mixing it by hand with a spoon first, haha, maybe it will work ????

[justyna_lenka]

Hello,

I’m a cosmetics technologist, I don’t know everything, but I’ll be happy to help as much as I can 🙂