

JonahRay
Forum Replies Created
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@MissC If you are just doing this at home with little to no equipment, boil some water in a kettle and do a ‘double broiler’ situation to warm up your phases.
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L-ascorbic acid isn’t the best for vitamin C serums, especially if you intend for it to be water-based (judging by you wanting to include hyaluronic acid). It’s not stable in water/ light. Lactic acid and hyaluronic acid are two very different ingredients and therefore can’t be subbed one for the other. Additionally, neither are required for a vitamin C serum.
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JonahRay
MemberApril 12, 2019 at 6:56 pm in reply to: Preservative sensitivity in the era of layering.I hear your concerns about preservatives. Recently I tested of a product with a focus group of 100 people and approximately 30% described a warming, tingling or burning sensation that we later found out to be caused by our preservative which was Phenoxyethanol.
A 50% glycerin gel applied to wet skin won’t do what you think it would. Without a proper barrier, trans epidermal water loss will occur, hence why o/w emulsions are popular. Chances are, this concentration without a proper barrier would effectively draw water out of the skin, further drying the skin.
All-in-one in theory sounds great however depending on what kind of actives you intend to deliver, some are better delivered in different steps. Water soluble actives don’t penetrate easily and are best applied when the skin barrier is compromised after washing, hence the use of products such as toners and serums. Applying a moisturizer will create the proper barrier to reduce TEWL and lock in water and the water soluble actives.
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In a microwave?!
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@MarkBroussard Thank you for suggesting additional options. Unfortunately at the moment I only have those listed above to play with. Which would you suggest?
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Aloe is full of electrolytes. You need a thickening system with more electrolyte tolerance. Carbopol 940 has lower tolerance than other polymer thickeners like Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer.
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Eumulgin HRE 40 (PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil) from BASF has a shelf-life of 24 months and they suggest it be homogenized before using if you don’t plan on using the whole thing because separation may occur during storage. They suggest heating to 30C and stirring. They also mention it be protected from moisture as it is hygroscopic.
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Here is a previous post on a similar issue that might provide some insight: https://chemistscorner.com/cosmeticsciencetalk/discussion/322/lotion-whitening-on-rub-in-possible-sources-and-preventions
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JonahRay
MemberMarch 18, 2019 at 3:39 pm in reply to: Online store based in the US sells dangerous cosmeticsI’m hoping there is a small market for… eye whitening!??…
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JonahRay
MemberMarch 12, 2019 at 8:11 pm in reply to: Improving Benzoyl Peroxide stability in emulsions - TODO and NOT DOsI don’t have any knowledge in this area but the popular topical for acne which is a mix of adapelene + benzoyl peroxide (trade: tactupump, epiduo) has the following formula:
acrylamide/sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer, docusate sodium, disodium edta, glycerin, isohexadecane, poloxamer 124, polysorbate 80, propylene glycol, sorbitan oleate, and purified water.
Maybe some of those ingredients could give you some clues as to what is helpful in a benzoyl peroxide formulation?
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JonahRay
MemberMarch 12, 2019 at 3:32 pm in reply to: Online store based in the US sells dangerous cosmetics“Following treatment with 40% MB cream, the skin will be sensitive for the rest of the patient’s life.”
Wow.
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This thread is a mess.
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@Thota The reaction I’ve seen from phenoxyethanol tends to be subjective irritation in the form of burning or warming (no appearance of irritation in the form of redness or scaling). I would just do a quick knock-out experiment to try to narrow it down. That’s the easiest way.
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JonahRay
MemberMarch 6, 2019 at 4:14 pm in reply to: Can you add water soluble extracts in an oil formulationI’ve used polyglycerol esters such as Polygycerol-10 Caprylic/Capric Glycerides as a way to dissolve small amounts of water soluble actives into oils.
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Doesn’t the regular sealing process trap air at the sealed end of the tube to allow the product to be squeezed out?
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Have you tried starting with a lower concentration of salt and increasing at small increments because if you put too much it will just thin right out again.
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What even is that?
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@Amittal It’s more of an industrial surfactant. I would imagine it to be too harsh for hand wash. Why not just use the typical surfactants for cosmetic use?
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@Pallavi123 From looking at other alkaline perm products it seems they use Ammonium Thioglycolate with the pH adjusted using Sodium Hydroxide and/or Ammonium Hydroxide and neutralized with Hydrogen Peroxide.
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Has anyone else had any experience with phenoxyethanol and this reaction?
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@carplgrower When you say ‘remelt’ are you cooling the mixture down to room temperature and then reheating?
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Glycol Distearate at 1-2%
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JonahRay
MemberFebruary 26, 2019 at 9:28 pm in reply to: Emulsifying Cleansing Oil with Polyglyceryl-4 Oleate@MaisR Aldivia makes some polyglyceryl esters in their Viatenza line that might interest you. Example: Sweet Almond Oil Polyglyceryl-6 Esters.