JonahRay
Forum Replies Created
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We used 50C throughout our development process and so for consistency sake we kept it at 50C. Would you say F/T is a better indicator of the stability of the emulsion?
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@Chemist77 Oh good point!
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Nothing in your formula looks to be particularly bad at trapping air. I would say its just an issue of incorporating too much air during production. Make sure a vortex thats reaching the blade doesnt form and if thats hard to prevent try using a baffle to suppress the formation of a vortex.
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A quick google search will give you some info on these ingredients - even wikipedia.
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Is it just the top layer that’s turning orange? Is the container closed or covered normally?
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I’ve read a lot about this but more in terms of skin cleansing. What I read was that after cleansing with bar soap for instance it requires quite a long time to return to optimal pH which leaves the skin in a more compromised state for longer. My reason for researching this was to see if using a more acidic toner is an effective way of rebalancing the skins pH allowing for quicker recoup after cleansing.
My thoughts when choosing a pH is that it really needs to be one that is compatible with the ingredients, especially the preservative system. We use exfoliating acids on our skin which certainly are not at skin pH so why should it matter.
My understanding is the skin is very capable of re-acidifying after applying a cream that may be more basic for instance.
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@chickenskin Do you have xanthan gum in the formula? It can trap air pretty well.
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Caprylhydroxamic Acid can react with free iron and cause a colour change. Maybe that is worth investigating? Caprylhydroxamic Acid is usually supplied in a blend, 1.1% pure of that is an enormous amount..
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It could be trapped air escaping causing a bunch of little holes.
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Natural ingredients are not pure- they are composed of hundreds of different compounds that are unidentified - fragrance molecules for instance. My mother works at a childrens hospital and you would be surprised how often parents tend to dip dirty hands back into product as they are using it on their baby. Even if it’s anhydrous it’s not something you probably want unpreserved. Another note on mineral oil - it won’t go rancid like the natural oils will.
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I’m not sure there really is a strong scientific basis to it. I notice with skincare especially, on the internet people tend to share their ‘knowledge’ like it’s straight up fact….”Silicones will clog your pores and give you acne” for instance - and they won’t even allow much discussion on it. “Sulfates are bad!” no questions asked. I find a lot of consumers don’t know something is bad until they are told, granted many don’t have scientific background and can’t make truly informed choices. Brands that label sulfate free have given the consumers information that they expect comes from experts that they can trust and therefore believe sulfates to be bad.
When I was looking for the perfect skin cleanser for myself - I read a few journal articles comparing different surfactants and found that SLS interacts with the lipids in the skin more than lets say sodium cocoyl isethionate. It’s possible this type of information kind of just spreads throughout each category - if it’s more disruptive to skin, it must be more disruptive to hair. You see this with trending ingredients - clay masks for both the skin and scalp, charcoal face masks, hair masks and toothpaste.
Additionally suppliers of raw materials tend to push these ideas to manufacturers pretty intensely which I think trickles down into the marketing of the product and consequently down to the consumer.
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@Pharma, I see what you’re saying. I don’t have the % of lysolecithin in ecogel. I have Glyceryl Stearate SE, Emulgade PL 68/50 (Cetearyl Glucoside (and) Cetearyl Alcohol) and Tegosoft GMC 6 (PEG-6 Caprylic/Capric Glycerides) on hand but that’s about it. I don’t have any additional emulsifiers but I can get anything relatively quickly off of Making Cosmetics or samples from select suppliers.
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Thanks for the comments @Pharma ! Unfortunately I can’t share too much haha - but the peptide I guess is besides the point, it’s more about creating a stable w/o emulsion. I was thinking of trying lecithin, I’ll have to order it but I do have ecogel on hand (Lysolecithin (and) Sclerotium Gum (and) Xanthan Gum (and) Pullulan). Is this something worth trying?
I tried just 3% water, oils and polyglyceryl-4 oleate (in various concentrations) but I get some sedimentation at the bottom.
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Hi @Pharma, this peptide is one designed by my company and it is water soluble but is glycosylated so it has a good degree of stability in water. It has amphiphilic properties so it can be dispersed in certain esters like mentioned above. Unfortunately the peptide now must be dissolved in water as a raw material (for manufacturing reasons) so we are looking to incorporate the peptide solution (about 3% w/w) into a mixture of oils.
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Tetrahydrocannabinol; delta-9-tetrahydrocannabinol; Cannabidiol; Cannabinol; Cannabis Sativa Flower Extract; Cannabis Sativa Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract are all prohibited in any concentration in cosmetics as per the Hotlist in Canada.
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@zaki2005 These formulas contain papain and bromelain I believe. You could try adding those key ingredients to your search.
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In cosmetics you need to use the INCI name. Coffea Arabica Seed Powder and Coffea Robusta Seed Powder are the INCI names for ground coffee beans of the Arabic & Robusta varieties. Depending on the source it can be the green beans or roasted.
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There are many factors to consider when choosing an emulsifier for any product. If you provide a basic formula and what you would like to include, we can give you suggestions that fit those ingredients. Also a serum doesn’t necessarily need to be anything in particular, lots are oil free.
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I mean… their cleanser has coco betaine…
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@MarkBroussard That’s what I suspected. Thanks for your answer!
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@lindacupples I think @Perry is asking why you want to specifically ferment them using lactobacillus.
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Well you do have glycerin which is hygroscopic so your blush isn’t anhydrous therefore you should use a preservative.
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@mehdilazrak91I would try playing around with both the gel emulsifier and the Cetearyl alcohol/ceteareth-20 to influence both the texture and the viscosity. Adding fatty alcohols like cetearyl alcohol or cetyl alcohol can give it a more ‘creamy’ and opaque appearance and feel.
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Just did a quick search and found Pelemol VL by Pheonix Chemical (INCI: Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate (and) Triisostearin), maybe you can give that a try if you can find it.