[jemolian]

As Mark mentioned, keep it simple. 

Start with the functional & structural ingredients, then add/replace the “actives”, additional modifiers, additives as required. That’s how i normally start with when i learnt it on my own, trying to spot the functional and structural ingredients to evaluate what ingredient does what. You will learn over time to have a structure or format / build. This would pertain to your question of “What ingredients do I need to accomplish this as well and productive as possible?”. 

For the other questions, it’s something you need to decide based on your target audience or who you are formulating the product for. 

[jemolian]

The recommendation can depend on your cost and viscosity that you want to achieve. Normally HEC or Xanthan or other gums would be fine. Since there’s Sodium Lactate, the recommendation for polymeric emulsifiers would mainly be Sepimax Zen. 

If you are using Urea, you should be able to use any of them. 

[jemolian]

i am receiving feedbacks that some people dont like how it feels when they apply it to face.

I think it’s important to ask them why that is the case, and what they don’t like about how it feels. Perhaps they are just not used to the formulation or the previous products they have applied makes the application of your product make them feel uncomfortable. 

For my own testing, i will apply on the back of my hands, then do a half face with another formulation that i want to test. 

[jemolian]

SHOULD YOU WEAR SUNSCREEN INDOORS? THE SCIENCE (WITH VIDEO)

How many of you use a sunscreen product on a regular basis?

When i’m out for long periods of time under the sun. I normally don’t sit near windows indoors. 

why aren’t all moisturizers made with sunscreen ingredients?

Because it requires validation of SPF values since they are regulated as drugs / claims. Formulating and validation is an expensive process. 

[jemolian]

If you check some of the brochures, the lowest recommendation mentioned would be pH 4 or 4.5. 

[jemolian]

@helenhelen
Just wondering for the Phyto-Oil C3, what percentage did you test it at? 

[jemolian]

Propylene glycol or propanediol should be fine. I make my own liquid version with propanediol. 

Reference to the solubility of the powder. 

[jemolian]

Lab muffin as a blog post on oils & free fatty acids, not sure if it would be useful for some references that you might fine interesting. https://labmuffin.com/video-skincare-oils-free-fatty-acids-science/

[jemolian]

For some countries, incidental ingredients don’t need to be listed. For example, the US. You can check the local regulatory guidelines for confirmation. If not you can just write everything. 

https://www.fda.gov/cosmetics/cosmetics-labeling-regulations/cosmetics-labeling-guide#clgl9

[jemolian]

I think it’s better to write a generic benefit statement / description. You can perhaps consider the descriptions from The Ordinary products like this 7% Glycolic Toner one: 

…offers mild exfoliation for improved skin radiance and visible clarity. The formula also improves the appearance of skin texture with continued use.

Salicylic Acid: 

This 2% treatment solution helps exfoliate the inside walls of pores to fight the appearance of blemishes and for better visible skin clarity with continued use. 

[jemolian]

As a marketer, personally i’d say that product performance or efficacy, marketing, pricing would be factors for consideration. 

In the upfront, normally a product should be designed for specific demographic(s), so it should then be marketed in specific ways to reach those customers. It depends on where the customers can be reached to be marketed. 

Having a proper presence would be important. For example, a company can reach out to specific (beauty) testers to get testimonials, and also reach out to (specific) influencers, to build up their (online) presence. 

In terms of story wise, sometimes there’s just a brand story or sometimes it’s a product series story. It depends on what kind of story the company wants to go for since it’s all part of the marketing. For example, about claims or about the ingredients. The story can be the justification of the price point.

Getting the customer interested and make the initial purchase would normally be the key factor. From there onwards, product performance would create repeat sales, which will increase more recommendations either online or offline. 

It’s very rarely pure luck. 

[jemolian]

Maybe iherb? 

[jemolian]

They probably are using 5% based on a paper that it increases wound healing. It should be available if you look for it. 

[jemolian]

It’s possible that the carbomer is not working out well with the co-emulsifiers thus creating the “cheesy” effect. I find that if i don’t test out and balance them properly that tend to happen when i use “carbomers”. No issues if i use other polymers.  

Reference to the effect:

[jemolian]

When using the K-20W, if i’m including carbomers in the formula, normally i add it at the neutralizing step since it can do that. I only disperse it in glycerin if i’m using it in my foaming hand wash. 

Generally it provides a substantive feel, and glide if you used it in a significant amount. 

For the “wet” skin feel, as @Graillotion mentioned, the pentylene glycol or a fst breaking polymer should do it, but it can also depend on how waxy your emulsion is. 

[jemolian]

Normally the silicone crosspolymers won’t be used at such as high percentage, since any percentage lower than 5% should be sufficient for the skin feel modifying purposes. You can also consider the info from Lotioncrafter if you need more reference, and also any manufacturer info on ulprospector. 

For the SDS, i’d assume it would be the general comment or remark for production purposes. 

[jemolian]

For being a good “occlusive”, it depends on what factor you want to compare it against since there’s TEWL or permeability to look at. 

The “PEG” normally means that it would be water soluble to a certain point, that being a surfactant / emulsifier. 

You can look into the different skin feel based on the different silicone types, for example liquid vs crosspolymers. 

Makingcosmetics do list the recommended type of product for the ingredients, so for amodimethicone, it’s a blend for hair conditioning. 

[jemolian]

There can be several factors. One being it closer to skin pH, another being the required compatible pH range of all your ingredients, lastly for functionality purposes.

Normally there is a purpose why your pH requirement is at where it is, and it’s up to you to justify your choice.  

[jemolian]

Thanks for the feedback 

[jemolian]

I just went to check on 1688 (china), they are selling it for:

• RMB 4000 for 500g
• RMB 102 for 10g

Not sure how reputable they all are but i guess the Bhat price is still fine if it’s a trustable source. Kind of hard to determine. 

[jemolian]

I’m not sure at the moment. I’m looking at what to purchase from them for the time being. Interested in some anti glycation ingredients. If they offer paypal payment, i think it should be fine. I think it will require manually asking them for payment options. 

[jemolian]

Have you tried purchasing from a repacker? I saw this Thai repacker selling it (just yesterday. If not i would have mentioned it earlier). 

https://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/en/anti-wrinkle/8126-pseudoceramide-cetylhydroxyproline-palmitamide.html

[jemolian]

@SaraLee

You will just need to figure out if your combination of emulsifier + viscosity modifier would work out to the viscosity you need. Montanov 202 doesn’t add much viscosity, so the viscosity modifier would be the main concern, thus the possibility of soaping. 

[jemolian]

@SaraLee
maybe to add on to the comments on the emulsifiers or montanov in general, how i choose normally choose my emulsifier would still depend on the requirements, which can include viscosity, raw material, skin feel, etc. 

I have the following and will choose them if i’m making the following products, normally i’d pair it with a polymeric emulsifier since i make gel creams most of the time: 

• 202 - if i require a matte finish, light weight lotion or emulsion
• L - if making a light weight lotion or milk
• 68 - if making a slightly waxy cream, with carbomer 980 as a richer texture
• 82 - i don’t use this often but i’ve made a cleansing lotion with this since it contains coco glucoside

I’m flexible with my choice of emulsifiers, i’ve used 68 & L at the very beginning of my formulation days and currently working on 202 since i’m interested in a matte finish. 

I’d still recommend to choose one based on your requirement(s) since the end result varies (depending on the blend). In terms of soaping, just get adjust the percentage of emulsifiers accordingly. 

[jemolian]

It would depend on the specific carbomer you use, each type can have a different viscosity effect at the same percentage and different skin feel. 

You can look at the neutralization pdf on the percentage recommendation. 
https://www.lubrizol.com/-/media/Lubrizol/Health/TDS/TDS-237_Neutralizing_Carbopol_Pemulen_in_Aqueous_Hydroalcoholic_Systems-PH.pdf