Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating HLB values and how to use hydrolyzed jojoba esters (Floraesters K-20W)

  • HLB values and how to use hydrolyzed jojoba esters (Floraesters K-20W)

    Posted by domicanica on August 28, 2021 at 4:17 pm

    This is a 2 in 1 question. So I have a basic understanding of HLB values as it relates to emulsions, specifically O/W. Now from what I’ve read the emulsifier I use isn’t really dependent on the HLB system but I still use it and I think my results are better than when I didn’t. So to my understanding, HLB should be calculated for just about anything that goes into the oil phase.

    So based on my understanding again, esters do use the HLB system. Based in the information I’ve found for K-20W I would be mixing it into glycerin before adding it to the formulation. So my confusion lies in the usage…after adding it to glycerin how do I proceed? Which phase do I put it in? Am I correct in thinking it should work with the HLB system and if so does anyone know its HLB value?

    jemolian replied 2 years, 9 months ago 5 Members · 10 Replies
  • 10 Replies
  • Pharma

    Member
    August 28, 2021 at 5:31 pm

    Do you know it’s chemical composition? I don’t but wonder…

  • helenhelen

    Member
    August 28, 2021 at 7:55 pm

    After you’ve dispersed it in glycerin, it is then treated as a water soluble component. It’s already 80% water on its own.

    Here’s a couple of documents you might find useful:

    https://www.floratech.com/PDFs/TechnicalReports/TR028.pdf

    https://www.floratech.com/PDFs/ClaimSheets/CS09-013.pdf

    Floratech have loads of sample formulations as well on their site.

  • Pharma

    Member
    August 28, 2021 at 8:32 pm

    @helenhelen Thanks! Okay, it’s about 10% each potassium jojobate and jojoba alcohols. Meaning, HLB of potassium jojobate (mostly potassium gondoate) can be calculated (something below 20) and it would count as emulsifier whilst the fatty alcohols (mostly a mixture of eicosenol and docosenol) should have an HLB requirement of somewere above 13 and count to the oil phase.

  • domicanica

    Member
    August 28, 2021 at 11:47 pm

    @helenhelen i didn’t see those on the manufacturer website, thanks a lot!

    @Pharma I’m going to do some more reading and see if I can apply what you’ve laid out above, thank you!

  • Graillotion

    Member
    August 29, 2021 at 2:03 am

    You can use other things besides glycerin… If you are using propanediol, or pentylene glycol, it also makes a good solvant for KW20….in fact Pentylene glycol is more effective than the glycerin.  I make my slurry…with any glycerin plus the  glycols.  The higher percentage of solvent, the quicker it goes into solution.

  • domicanica

    Member
    August 29, 2021 at 2:43 am

    thanks for the tip about pentylene glycol. you know, i think it’s you i saw on this forum talking about KW20… do you still enjoy using it in emulsions or have you found something better?

  • Graillotion

    Member
    August 29, 2021 at 4:38 am

    thanks for the tip about pentylene glycol. you know, i think it’s you i saw on this forum talking about KW20… do you still enjoy using it in emulsions or have you found something better?

    Still in love with it…. there aren’t many things in cosmetics…that you can keeping increasing the inclusion rate…and it generally just enhances the formula…without adding weight, stickiness, oiliness, or making the skin feel smothered.  
    It is in every formula I make….and every formula…asks something different from it.  One formula…only asks for extension of EO’s. :)  (It is a mild fixative.)

    And yes…  I also love pentylene G…makes my moisturizers feel sooo ‘wet’ when they go on.

    I think there are a number on this forum that use it….and maybe we don’t tend to mention it much…because we kinda think…it is our secret weapon…hehehe.

  • domicanica

    Member
    August 29, 2021 at 3:51 pm

    Thanks a lot, I’m really excited about using it in my lotions, everything I’ve heard about it is amazing. Thanks for telling me about pentylene glycol too. I was previously chasing the “wet feel” with jojoba because that’s how it feels neat but it just didn’t do it for me in the actual products.

  • Graillotion

    Member
    August 30, 2021 at 12:13 am

    Thanks a lot, I’m really excited about using it in my lotions, everything I’ve heard about it is amazing. Thanks for telling me about pentylene glycol too. I was previously chasing the “wet feel” with jojoba because that’s how it feels neat but it just didn’t do it for me in the actual products.

    Add 1-1.5% cyclomethicone…and it will also enhance that feel.

    …And of course…use of a fast breaking polymeric….these all add up….to stunning!

  • jemolian

    Member
    August 30, 2021 at 1:04 am

    When using the K-20W, if i’m including carbomers in the formula, normally i add it at the neutralizing step since it can do that. I only disperse it in glycerin if i’m using it in my foaming hand wash. 

    Generally it provides a substantive feel, and glide if you used it in a significant amount. 

    For the “wet” skin feel, as @Graillotion mentioned, the pentylene glycol or a fst breaking polymer should do it, but it can also depend on how waxy your emulsion is. 

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