Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Cetylhydroxyproline Palmitamide … Can I find the back door in?

  • Cetylhydroxyproline Palmitamide … Can I find the back door in?

    Posted by Graillotion on August 12, 2021 at 3:07 am

    I have long wanted to add a ceramide or pseudo ceramide to my emulsions.  Due to cost and lack of hard core scientific data…I had a great deal of interest in the latter, cheaper version (pseudo ceramides).  However….I was not given the time of day from the couple of mfg’s I contacted.

    As my formulating has morphed with a strong influence of some Swiss PhD, I am looking at my formula…and seeing L-Proline and several natural sources of palmitic acid….and wondering…have I accidently back doored (or been carefully steered) my way into something very similar to pseudo ceramides?  Sometime I think the Swiss genius just likes to see how long it takes me to figure out where he has dropped me off at.  ;) 

    I have discovered….with my daily formulation adventures…that I have recreated through simple trial and error, several high dollar/ high functional combinations that the big boys are selling.  Not by looking at these products on ULP and trying to mimic…..Just buying tons of ingredients, and trying them in existing formulas, evaluating what worked and felt the best.  Later on, I discover that these combos had already been created.  ;)  I merely consider this validation of my sensory skills.  (That is the only skill I believe I hold as a formulator…I can feel a .5% ingredient change…like day and night.)

    abierose replied 2 years, 9 months ago 6 Members · 13 Replies
  • 13 Replies
  • jemolian

    Member
    August 12, 2021 at 7:20 am

    Have you tried purchasing from a repacker? I saw this Thai repacker selling it (just yesterday. If not i would have mentioned it earlier). 

    https://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/en/anti-wrinkle/8126-pseudoceramide-cetylhydroxyproline-palmitamide.html

  • Graillotion

    Member
    August 12, 2021 at 8:44 am

    jemolian said:

    Have you tried purchasing from a repacker? I saw this Thai repacker selling it (just yesterday. If not i would have mentioned it earlier). 

    https://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/en/anti-wrinkle/8126-pseudoceramide-cetylhydroxyproline-palmitamide.html

    Thank you!  Are they a reputable vendor?

    I had searched for a US repacker, but I believe there are none.  

    I’ll have to see how that prices out with shipping!  :) 

  • jemolian

    Member
    August 12, 2021 at 8:46 am

    I’m not sure at the moment. I’m looking at what to purchase from them for the time being. Interested in some anti glycation ingredients. If they offer paypal payment, i think it should be fine. I think it will require manually asking them for payment options. 

  • Graillotion

    Member
    August 12, 2021 at 8:50 am

    OMG…it is 72 baht per gram! (before shipping)

  • jemolian

    Member
    August 12, 2021 at 9:06 am

    I just went to check on 1688 (china), they are selling it for:

    • RMB 4000 for 500g
    • RMB 102 for 10g

    Not sure how reputable they all are but i guess the Bhat price is still fine if it’s a trustable source. Kind of hard to determine. 

  • Graillotion

    Member
    August 12, 2021 at 9:22 am

    I’ll wait for the Swiss response….if this can effectively be pieced together. :)  (At a much lower price.)

  • Pattsi

    Member
    August 12, 2021 at 12:48 pm

    I bought something from them before when I was in Thailand and felt like hobbying. They are good compare to other Thai repackers. But not sure they ship internationally. Another time I had my brother bought the the item and sent to me via DHL, it’s $100ish shipping. 

  • Pharma

    Member
    August 12, 2021 at 6:57 pm

    …and seeing L-Proline and several natural sources of palmitic acid….and wondering…have I accidently back doored (or been carefully steered) my way into something very similar to pseudo ceramides?…

    If you found a back door which nobody noticed until now, you certainly get rich (at least with good marketing skills) and famous (at least amongst chemists) ;) . And no, you haven’t been steered (at least not deliberately).
    I just noticed that my vocabulary in this posting isn’t too sophisticated (at least, I’m sorry about that).
    However, I told you over and over that you should try ceramides or similar… I’ve even tried to reach your bank clerk to convince her to grant you a second mortgage on your house so you could affort them. However, she doesn’t like you… she said the mailman is only delivering mail and leaves immediately since the day you gave his spouse that pain cream. She’s not happy with your work and won’t support it. LoL!
  • Graillotion

    Member
    August 12, 2021 at 9:01 pm

    Pharma said:

    …and seeing L-Proline and several natural sources of palmitic acid….and wondering…have I accidently back doored (or been carefully steered) my way into something very similar to pseudo ceramides?…

    However, I told you over and over that you should try ceramides or similar… I’ve even tried to reach your bank clerk to convince her to grant you a second mortgage on your house so you could affort them. 

    Hehehe….the only ceramide sample I have…is in a box of mac-nuts…on the way to Zurich. :):smiley:

  • Graillotion

    Member
    August 12, 2021 at 9:53 pm

    Pharma said:

    …and seeing L-Proline and several natural sources of palmitic acid….and wondering…have I accidently back doored (or been carefully steered) my way into something very similar to pseudo ceramides?…

    If you found a back door which nobody noticed until now, you certainly get rich 

    Hey you have to let the dreamers dream.  If we just all keep our heads down and accept the status quo… Well we have a stagnant industry.  I came from an industry that was so heavily regulated…it was nearly impossible to develop new products.  It was only the dreamers…searching out the synergies of existing materials…that created anything new.  (And sometimes a lower IQ helped…because they could not grasp the perceived limitations  ;) )

  • abierose

    Member
    August 12, 2021 at 10:45 pm

    Pharma said:

    …and seeing L-Proline and several natural sources of palmitic acid….and wondering…have I accidently back doored (or been carefully steered) my way into something very similar to pseudo ceramides?…

    If you found a back door which nobody noticed until now, you certainly get rich 

    Hey you have to let the dreamers dream.  If we just all keep our heads down and accept the status quo… Well we have a stagnant industry.  I came from an industry that was so heavily regulated…it was nearly impossible to develop new products.  It was only the dreamers…searching out the synergies of existing materials…that created anything new.  (And sometimes a lower IQ helped…because they could not grasp the perceived limitations  ;) )

    I gotta second this though process. We have to believe we’ll be able to make something monumental and life changing otherwise we’re just trying to make a buck and that’s just not good enough. I too want to believe that if I happen to formulate the right ingredients at the right percentages that maybe, just MAYBE, I’ll stumble upon something really awesome that I can believe in and can share.

    …Then the cynical side of me emerges and reminds me that ignorance may be bliss but in this day and age, ignorance is a choice and my dreamer side has to fight for some balance 🤣

  • OldPerry

    Member
    August 13, 2021 at 12:59 pm

     I too want to believe that if I happen to formulate the right ingredients at the right percentages that maybe, just MAYBE, I’ll stumble upon something really awesome that I can believe in and can share.

    This is why you don’t see more scientists launching their own lines. Or at least this is why I haven’t tried to launch a line (except as a demonstration of how to do it). 

    To successfully launch products in the beauty industry, you have to be willing to suspend your disbelief and embrace a plausible story.  Basically, you need to believe your own BS.

    This is a crucial trait for marketing and selling, it’s a terrible trait if you want to study science and learn what is actually true.

    In the beauty business, seeing the world as it is is antithetical to marketing products.

  • abierose

    Member
    August 13, 2021 at 5:01 pm

    @Perry yes, you are 100% correct. Hence the last sentence in my post. Honestly, until I came here to this blog, I was under the impression that cosmetics had the ability to back up most of their claims without being labeled a drug. Now I know that it’s all a bunch of b.s. I have to believe that a lot of companies, albeit probably the smaller ones, really do believe their products can do things they cannot…like you said…To successfully launch products in the beauty industry, you have to be willing to suspend your disbelief and embrace a plausible story.  Basically, you need to believe your own BS.”

    Unfortunately my thirst for truth through science has worked against me in my venture into this industry. Once one is enlightened to the truth, it’s not something you can ignore and so believing your own marketing story isn’t really an option anymore…unless your product only uses effective ingredients and you don’t make a bunch of false claims about what your product is capable of doing…and like you said before, consumers generally want to believe the fluff and hype. 🤷‍♀️ 

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