Iaskedbetter
Forum Replies Created
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In addition, ionic surfactants (SLS, SLES, sodium lauroyl lactylate) do not have an HLB (or do not adhere to the HLB system).
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That might work but you’re better off using an actual buffer system (acid + conjugate base). Use a buffer table (citric acid + sodium citrate). Otherwise a phosphate-citrate buffer should work in that range.
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I am guessing OP is referring to something like this:
Should this be the case, the answer to your question is a combination of filling technology and miscibility. The clear gel is aqueous and the colored swirls are hydrophobic (i.e. oil based gels, W/O emulsions, etc.). Each component is made separately and specialized filling equipment creates the swirl effect. -
Blanova Muls Eco 77
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That definition is…excruciatingly in depth and specific.
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There are many industry standard styling tests. One is measuring curl retention at high humidity. This test can be performed in as short as a couple hours, but it requires a humidity chamber (or at the very least a really humid area like a boiler room).
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Were you looking for general chemistry or cosmetic chemistry? Get @Perry (see how nicely that worked out?) to learn about some cosmetic chemistry courses this summer.
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Doesn’t sound like misinformation, just a suggestion. I agree that 40% vegetable oil is likely going to produce a rather greasy concealer…but maybe that’s what your customer/marketing team is looking for. Or maybe in your formula it isn’t that greasy. My point was that their squalane suggestion was to address a pecularity in your formula that suggested it might be greasy, not to address the wear issue you are having.
Also, that’s the right Ganex. Let us know how it works out for you. -
At this point you’re talking more about sensory characteristics and less about formula performance attributes. Squalane won’t do anything to help your wear issue. Typically if a customer or marketing team tells me they like the formula, save for one performance characteristic, I only make adjustments to address that issue and try to leave the sensory attributes the same (why make improvements that they didn’t ask for?).
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That is not really a replacement but you could still certainly use it. I wouldn’t go crazy with it though because of the dimethicone.
Isododecane is “drier” so I would go that route.If you can get your hands on the X-21-5595, I would give that a shot. Ganex is a good option too. Like I said before, there are lot’s of ways to skin this particular cat. -
Basically what @Bobzchemist said. Ganex is the VP/Eicosene Copolymer I mentioned.
I have used all 3 of those with good results on getting long wear. If you want to take Bobs advice on the volatile point, I would go with D5 or Isododecane to replace a chunk of your oils. You can get trimethylsiloxysilicate in both of those diluents.Not sure about minimum buys on these though. -
Not sure what you mean by “available off the shelf”. All of those options are oil soluble. Polyethylene has some extreme heat requirements.
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I assume by “staying power” you mean “wear” or “long wear”?
There are a myriad of options to achieve this. Polyethylene, Trimethylsiloxysilicate, VP/Eicosene Copolymer, just to name a few. -
Do a draw down of your standard and test batch on white paper (or draw down card if you have them) to compare the product appearance. Once you get close on paper test it out on skin. It is extremely helpful if whoever is approving the formula evaluates the color with you because what may look close on your skin might not on someone else’s.
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It sounds like what you are really looking for is a perfume fixative. There are a myriad of options to choose from so I would play around with a few to get your desired effect.
More complicated routes would be some type of encapsulation tech or possibly coupling the fragrance material with an adsorbent that would somehow equalize the vapor pressure of the fragrance/oil? Silica shells come leaping to mind.That’s really me just spitballing. I personally have not done much with slow release fragrance technology. -
1) Glycol Distearate has little, if any, emulsifying “power”. It is primarily used for opacifying and creating a pearl effect.
2) I do not know of any Tween products that are suitable as W/O solubilizers.3) Like Bill said, W/O/W are a “B word” to make, much less make stable. I would go a different route if I were you. -
Not sure if this idea is sound chemically…but what about a nitrogen blanket?
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@Perry I’m sure you memorized the key components of your VO5 formulas. Why not just make some for yourself at your new job?
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“Under the new proposal, companies will be required to report “serious” adverse health effects they hear about from consumers — reactions to products that result in death, disfigurement or hospitalization, for example — within 15 business days. Companies must report all nonserious events — like rashes — in an annual report.”
So would companies have to report when some idiot uses a thio based relaxer on NaOH permed hair? -
For simply knocking off a formula, a “% solids” test (what Bob just described) is more than adequate to give you a starting point.
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@MarkBroussard Unfortunately I think doing that hinders or even prevents growth. Ideally, we (or at least I) would like to see this small community grow. And it doesn’t have to be just experienced chemists and people within the industry. Home crafters, new techs/chemists, and small business entrepreneurs who are genuinely interested in learning about cosmetic/personal care chemistry can be great resources themselves if they are willing to share their hurdles/learning experiences. Ignoring people is basically slamming the door to our community in their face. I think we can get more people involved here if we at least try to help them help themselves first (if they seem to have put little effort into doing so).
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@Ruben The answer regarding whether it is industry standard to “QS” is yes and no. I have worked in companies that do this and companies that don’t.
In a foundation I developed a few years ago, we had to do some significant shade adjusting in all of our first production batches and there was very little consistency in how the shades appeared. I noticed that the processing times were extremely variable, so I added a “qs” step for D5 and water before phase combination and saw much better consistency after that. -
You typically cover/seal the vessel you are heating your oil phase in as you would a water phase to mitigate evaporative loss.
If D5 is the only volatile chemical in your oil phase, you could also “QS” it just prior to phase combination (weigh the vessel or phase to find out how much D5 you lost, then add that amount into the phase). -
Partly agree with you @DavidW. You can easily spot the people who are “takers”. However, I realize that a lot of people use this site as an educational tool, and aren’t in a position to give sage advice. I think a general “best practice” would be to:
A) Show gratitude towards those who try to help and,
Update your thread with results of the things you have tried. Even if the suggestions you tried don’t work, it is helpful to get feedback and sometimes knowing what doesn’t work is just as, if not more valuable than knowing what does work.
