Forum Replies Created

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  • Herbnerd

    Member
    January 7, 2024 at 10:47 am in reply to: How do I dissolve iron oxide in oil to make a lip tint?

    You don’t dissolve the iron oxide - you just disperse it. You just need to ensure it is evenly dispersed and there are no lumps. Any lab mixer should be able to do this.

  • Herbnerd

    Member
    November 20, 2023 at 11:01 am in reply to: Mineral Oil replacement

    I’ve used Capric/caprylic triglycerides as an alternative but I am working to Natrue and the other options were somewhat limited.

  • Herbnerd

    Member
    November 6, 2023 at 12:59 pm in reply to: Sodium benzoate in toothpaste

    I’ve been developing toothpastes for a few years now. Most of our toothpaste does not use any sodium benzoate, potassium sorbate or any other preservative; however two of them do - our toothpaste is stable based on low water activity (0.2 from memory), high pH (calcium carbonate pastes are generally pH 8-8.5).

    We have tested to various PET/Log count methods (ISO, BP, USP etc) and all passed with the exception of the kids toothpaste.

    With the kids toothpaste we sought extra advice on pH from Indiana University’s Oral Health Research Institute as to the lowest pH we could go to - and the advise we received was surprisingly low; however, we ended up using potassium sorbate and targeting a pH of 5-5.5 and we passed PET/Log counts.

    Note: We develop to a natural standard and many options for effective preservation were not available to us.

  • Herbnerd

    Member
    October 15, 2023 at 11:44 am in reply to: Cost of floor plan for GMP Certified production facility

    When we moved from our old manufacturing site to a new site; our QA manager at the time drew up new site plans and asked our auditor to review them. The auditor came up with a few things he would like to see and the QA manager updated the plans to include comments from the auditor.

    This was certainly cheaper than paying someone to do the plans for us.

    BTW - Operations manager took those plans and ignored them and built something incompatible with future plans. We moved into the new site and he promptly resigned!

  • Herbnerd

    Member
    October 12, 2023 at 11:59 am in reply to: Ingredient List

    No reliable way.

    Most companies hide their IP by stating ranges for their ingredients. Even with experience, you can sort of guess the approximate ratios - but may not be exactly right.

  • Herbnerd

    Member
    October 12, 2023 at 11:49 am in reply to: Introducing Cosmex AI - AI Productivity Tools For Cosmetic Chemists

    Is this an annual subscription? If so, what is the cost for this?

  • Herbnerd

    Member
    September 20, 2023 at 11:53 am in reply to: Pharma ,Cosmetic, Food, Vegetarian grade RM’s

    Often it is around the purity of the ingredient in question - and sometimes there is no difference at all. Food products tend to have a higher purity (lower heavy metals and other contaminants) because we ingest more food and smaller quantities of pharma and in theory, not ingesting cosmetics.

    Generally (at least here in NZ) the main difference can be who is selling what and the agreements they have with various agencies. One supplier has the agency for food products and another has the agency for pharma and yet another has the agency for cosmetics.

  • Herbnerd

    Member
    September 10, 2023 at 7:27 pm in reply to: Raspberry ketone as a multifunctional preservative

    Raspberry ketone as a multifuntional has been out a lot longer than March this year - the article you posted dates from February 2021.

    I looked at it as part of a reformulation of a natural toothpaste. But being a flavour (raspberry ketone is primary a flavour ingredient) it obviously imparted a distinct raspberry flavour. Depending on your intended product, you may have distinct raspberry notes to cover. But we never progressed further than a lab sample. It has also been used previously as a weight-loss supplement (I doubt it was effective anyway).

    We ended up using potassium sorbate.

  • Herbnerd

    Member
    September 10, 2023 at 1:00 pm in reply to: Natural Product Association question…

    Charcoal is just wood burned without oxygen. Charcoal is just ‘activated’ using steam - all it does is increase the surface area to increase absorption capacity.

    I can’t see it in the NPA list, nor on Natrue. However, this would be acceptable by Natrue because Charcoal would be considered a natural product.

    But if I were to look to the Australian definition of ‘natural’ it would include very few ingredients - even something as simple as Lavender oil would be considered synthetic because steam distillation does not exist in nature.

    By all means use a natural standard - but it comes at a cost. Weigh up whether the cost of an external audit is outweighed by the sales of that product meeting that standard. If it does, it may not be worth it.

  • Herbnerd

    Member
    August 21, 2023 at 2:44 pm in reply to: MoCRA – Systems You Must Have In Place By December 29, 2023

    Do you think MoCRA will follow the EU with their 82 Mandatory allergens or the old 26 allergens used by a few other countries or publish a list of their own?

  • Herbnerd

    Member
    July 9, 2023 at 12:39 pm in reply to: Cinnamon powder toothpaste

    I can help you with toothpaste - but I need a lot more detail of what you are trying to achieve and the formula with which you are working.

  • Herbnerd

    Member
    July 2, 2023 at 12:32 pm in reply to: Comedy Saturday… Can anyone top this for worst INCI ever?

    Its not the worst.

    The worst would have to be some hippy-made product where they included ‘love’ as an ingredient. I wish I had photographed it now!

  • Herbnerd

    Member
    June 5, 2023 at 1:15 pm in reply to: Tincture with 4 herbs

    Technically you are wanting to make fluid extracts rather than tinctures. Tinctures tend to be 1:5 extracts or lower. 1:3 to 1:1 are fluid extracts and are not as simple to make.

    The menstruum (liquid portion) to herb tends to be lower and the herb content much higher - Equal parts herb and menstruum in the case of 1:1 to one part herb to 3 parts menstruum in the case of a 1:3.

    The menstruum needs to be appropriate for the herb you are extracting. Some herbs only require 25% ethanol/water, others require 90% ethanol/water. This depends very much on what you are extracting - resins require a higher ethanol content.

    The actual technique is too long for me to explain here - just google it if you are determined to make your own extracts.

    However, for cosmetic use, the fluid extracts (or tinctures) tend to get evaporated down to remove the ethanol (and maybe some of the water) and then diluted with glycerol.

  • Herbnerd

    Member
    May 21, 2023 at 2:53 pm in reply to: Discoloration of body cream due to fragrance?

    Just wondering if it is oxidation of the unsaturated fatty acids in the apricot kernal oil that is causing the colour change. I am unfamiliar with some of the other oils used.

  • Herbnerd

    Member
    April 11, 2023 at 9:24 pm in reply to: Herbal Extracts Removing Color

    You can probably remove the colour. But from a herbalist point of view, the colour will be from the actives extracted from the plant - Anthocyanins are red/blue, tannins tend to be red/brown (think tannins from tea), catechins from green tea - brownish. Curcumins - yellow

    Remove the colour and you will just be left with water & glycerol (or whatever these extracts are extracted in).

    As for whether they are active/functional - highly improbable since they will be so highly diluted any bioactives will be far below any therapeutic levels to do anything anyway.

  • Herbnerd

    Member
    April 4, 2023 at 8:36 pm in reply to: Perry’s birthday is today

    Happy birthday Perry. I’d get my ukulele out and play/sing Happy Birthday - but I can’t play ukulele and neither can I sing!

    Enjoy your day

  • Herbnerd

    Member
    April 4, 2023 at 1:15 pm in reply to: Natural Colorants

    There are a huge number of options to what one might call ‘natural colourants’ but most depend very much to whether you are working to a natural standard such as COSMOS or Natrue or some other standard. For example in Australia, the standard of what is considered natural is very tight. Elsewhere this definition can be a lot looser.

    Natrue has a lot of nature identical pigments and colours permitted for use in formulae. But the real problem is deciding what to use and when.

    A lot of plant sourced natural colours are unstable - Chlorophyllins work best in alkali media, they go from green to yellow to clear in an acid medium. Something I wasn’t aware of when my boss wanted me to add Chlorophyllin to a silica gel toothpaste. It faded pretty quickly in stability trials

    Curcumins fade very quickly - and go from yellow to clear in sunlight

    Anthocyanins change colour depending on pH (they can be used as pH indicators)

    Mineral pigments may or may not be permitted depending on your product, application and market.

  • Herbnerd

    Member
    October 19, 2023 at 11:36 am in reply to: Cost of floor plan for GMP Certified production facility

    China has recently published new standards for cosmetics and since our business exports toothpaste to China, this affects us. The new regulations were published late September.

    My boss is complaining that we should have let him know ‘months ago’ and not just now. The new regulations are to be implemented on 1st December this year. Our supposed head of innovation has no idea of innovation or regulation.

  • Herbnerd

    Member
    October 18, 2023 at 11:52 am in reply to: Cost of floor plan for GMP Certified production facility

    We are not US based - but our company has decided that the USA is to be our next ‘home base’ and so far everyone is oblivious to MoCRA. I’ve discussed it, sent emails out defining what needs to be done and by when.

    Nope - I’m just putting in road-blocks. Oh well, they will find out soon enough and I have an email trail to back me up.

  • Herbnerd

    Member
    October 18, 2023 at 8:22 pm in reply to: Cost of floor plan for GMP Certified production facility

    I actually had this discussion with my boss this morning. He was ‘unaware’ of this and wondered what we have done to mitigate the situation.

    Thankfully I have emails dating back almost a year appraising him of the situation.

  • Herbnerd

    Member
    October 16, 2023 at 11:33 am in reply to: Cost of floor plan for GMP Certified production facility

    Absolutely.

  • Herbnerd

    Member
    October 16, 2023 at 11:32 am in reply to: Cost of floor plan for GMP Certified production facility

    I guess that is corporate life.

    One company buys out another, then employs ultracrepidarian managers who not only have no experience of the industry we are in but know enough to tow the company line with their pretty powerpoints and incomprehensible jargon where we have ‘medium term event horizons’ and the need to ‘litigate’ with other team members.

    Meanwhile, in this company there are two people who actually do have industry experience propping up an organisation with deep pockets and zero competency.

  • “When clients embark on creating “natural” cosmetics, they often lack a
    clear direction. Consequently, the product design phase becomes
    challenging, resembling herding cats. Clients may resort to unreliable
    online sources to scrutinize unfamiliar raw materials.”

    Now substitute clients for Marketing and you have totally describes the marketing team at the company where I work! I mean, they cannot decide on timings, namings of projects and generally cause all round confusion - let alone give an ordered brief.

  • Herbnerd

    Member
    June 11, 2023 at 2:05 pm in reply to: Tincture with 4 herbs

    I would suggest you manufacture your extracts separately and combine later; however, be aware that tannins can bind and precipitate alkaloids and also muscilage - for this reason alone you should extract each herb independently - but you also need to be aware that they can still interact once combined as an extract.

    To do a 1:1.5 extraction you need 750 g of herb to 1 kg of liquid. Glycerol is not really assisting in extraction - so perhaps max 20% glycerol purely as a preservative. But it would be better to extract with 20% ethanol:water, evaporate to remove the ethanol and a portion of the water and add glycerol to about 50%.

    To extract this amount of herb in so little liquid you will need to employ a percolation method - there are enough videos on youtube (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-exnzhhcnmQ I can’t find anyone one who doesn’t look like a hippy or a prepper) -and I have not watched the video throughout!) but essentially you need a funnel, or as they have used here, a bottle that has been cut to remove the base, and pack powdered herb into the funnel - with some of the extraction fluid poured on top. Once it has hydrated all the herb, a tap is opened, and remaining liquid added and the herb extract drips out of the bottom. Excess fluid is evaporated off to concentrate the herb extracts precisely.

    A similar method is used commercially.

  • @chemicalmatt Thanks for that - greatly appreciate your response.

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