Gunther
Forum Replies Created
-
Most chemicals are manufactured in China these days.
While they have some top quality manufacurers, i.e. those meant to be redistributed by Sigma-Aldrich (lab grade), they also have some with very sloppy or no quality control.If you steer away from chinese products, you’re shooting yourself in the foot, as it severly limits your choice of available products.
The virus itself can’t feed or reproduce in chemicals or equipment. It needs live humans or animals.
Some suppliers are taking advantage of the coronavirus mass hysteria to jack up prices for no real reason. -
Drunks have much more acetaldehyde in their blood than people using hand sanitizers (or body mists or any other topical ethanol product) do.
Cancer from alcohol is exceedingly rare, even in drunks. -
SLES may leave residues on surfaces. Glucosides are usually better.
Anyhow, you’ll just need to conduct some residue-on-drying tests for different surfactants and concentrations.
These tests are easy and (at least somewhat) fun. You’ll learn a lot from them. -
IMO drop the guar gum and stearic acid and just thicken it with fatty alcohols.
You can try replacing some or all of the cetearyl alcohol with cetyl alcohol for a less draggy product.It being a leave on product, PQ-7 and 10 are way too high and will leave a sticky film on hair.
Try reducing them to just 0.1% or even removing them altogether. -
You’ll need to read scientific studies on that, but topical ethanol is very safe.
I don’t think much is absorbed by the skin.
And even so, I don’t think that will reach the lower skin layers where blood enzymes can metabolize it. -
Lauryl sulfate will yield a blotchy, stringy flow as compared to SLES.
-
Being a water based formula you may wish to consider using paraben Sodium salts which are readily water soluble.
Otherwise you may need more emulsifier (polysorbate, PEG-40 HCO or some other like Polysugamulse) to solubilize the (plain) parabens.
For that much fragrance, you may wish to add some DPG to aid in solubility as to reduce emulsifier usage.
Also, consider adding an antifoam agent as too much emulsifiers can foam on spraying, and customers may not like it. -
If it’s meant for commercial purposes,
You definitely need to conduct some tests.
Get some marble or granite pieces and begin experimenting yourself.
I personally think that neutral or slightly alkaline is safer for these stones.BTW Sodium bicarbonate won’t bring the pH down. An acid will.
-
You can also try other emulsifiers like PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil or PolySugaMulse.
Try different test batches in 0.5% emulsifier increments until you find one that is stable.
-
Add some emulsifier or alcohol so it’s fully emulsified or dissolved.
-
Dr Catherine Pratt said:Use Leucidal 2% and Amp cide 2%hope this helps
Are they allowed in mouthwashes, or just for external, topical use?
Especially because you’ll unavoidably swallow some of them. -
First you’ll need to determine which active ingredients you’ll use and only then determine the solvent required.
Some ingredients are water soluble so no alcohol or PG is needed. For others you’ll need to add an emulsifier.You’ll need to find scientific studies, or conduct the studies yourself to make sure these “active ingredients” actually do anything against alopecia, most don’t.
If they don’t you can reduce them to claim ingredient levels, but you’d be selling plain snake oil. -
They probably didn’t follow proper INCI rules on listing ingredients on descending order down to 1%.
Too much EDTA will leave a powdery, white residue on skin while doing nothing useful.
I don’t even think that being EDTA a salt, it will get absorbed trough skin. -
Check the ingredient comedogenic ratings, and pay attention to the methods used to rank them.
Acne causing bacteria often feeds on many oils and fatty acids.
Google some scientific studies about this topic.So you may wish to avoid oils and fatty acids, and add some ingredients that have some antibacterial or even antibiotic activity.
Check your local regulations to make sure those ingredients can be sold as OTC and not as prescription-only.While you can use some natural extracts that have antibacterial/antibiotic activity, make sure they don’t cause allergies or irritation. That’s a big concern for essential oils, just to name an example.
-
Check to see what ingredient makes its pH so alkaline,
because when neutralizing it, it’ll form a salt and salts often leave powdery or whitish residues.Glucosides leave little residues compared to other surfactants, especially the anionics like SLS/SLES.
Glucosides may fit in the “natural” narrative.If your local VOC regulations allow it, you can add some alcohol as a degreaser. It doesn’t leave any residue and it might be labeled “natural”, especially if the alcohol comes from vegetable products fermentation.
-
Good luck.
Will any independent stores (re)sell your products in the original location? -
Too many cationics can leave a sticky afterfeel, despite it being a rinse off products.
I don’t think they’ll be comedogenic. If anything, cationics usually have some antibacterial activity. -
Poly Suga Mulse D9 beats PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, and the latter beats Polysorbates.
DPG can help and it doesn’t foam as the previously mentioned ones do.At the end you’ll need to conduct tests with the specific fragance used.
There’s a huge variation in fragance polarity. -
SLS can be irritating despite the CAPB.
Also, SLS can cloud and become stringy when thickened, unlike SLES.IMO a 25% SLS, 75% SLES combination works better.
-
Add some petrolatum.
-
Some lanolin smells.
Why borax? -
1. Ethanol
2. Methylparaben.
Read ‘Evaluation of the ingestion of parabens during the use of dental caries products by healthy human volunteers’.Just don’t expect BS natural preservatives to work in such a demanding product.
Not only sugars like sorbitol feed bacteria (unless the concentration is impractically high), but many people drink it using the bottle cap, so many mouth bacteria end up in the liquid.
Mouthwashes are often used in the bathroom where there are lots of bacteria.
And they are used for weeks or months after opening the bottle.Don’t ever sell a mouthwash without proper microbial challenge tests passed.
-
n_mashay said:
I am attempting to make a holding wax/cream based on my curly hair experiences with other waxes. My goal is that it won’t weigh my hair down, but simply define my curls and stop frizz.
All constructive suggestions are welcome!
- water - 48%
- Candellila wax - Euphorbia cerifera cera - 13%
- Beeswax - cera alba 12%
- Cetearyl alcohol - 10
- Stearic acid - 6%
- PVP - 4%
- Vitis vinicera -5
- Essential Oils - 2%
What’s the emulsifier in this formula?
-
If I’m not mistaken, using TEA to neutralize/saponify stearic acid yields a different product feel than NaOH.
-
jjciii said:Hi Everyone, Happy New Year!
I am having difficulty making a sprayable emulsion even when I use emulsifiers that claim to create low viscosity, sprayable lotions. Does anyone know the contributing factors which make an emulsion sprayable? Is it particle size? I know that viscosity plays some role; however, I made a sprayable emulsion hair detangler that was fairly viscous using emulsifying wax and I did not homogenize. I really would like to use a liquid crystal emulsifier like Emuslun from Floratech. I just looking for some advice if anyone has experience. thanks very much.
If it’s for a hair detangler you can easily make an sprayable one:
CETAC 2% on an active basis
cetearyl alcohol 1%
Coconut oil (0.25-1%)
preservative
fragrance (including solubilizer) qs
water qs to 100%The higher the CETAC to cetearyl alcohol ratio, the less viscous it becomes, hence sprayable.
CETAC ain’t a good emulsifier for silicone. So silicones will need a separate emulsifier, or better yet a premade, ready to use emulsion.
Check to see how much coconut oil it can hold without separating.