Graillotion
Forum Replies Created
-
Oil and water don’t mix. Remind yourself of the solubility of honey and aloe.
-
This is not my area….but making sure we did not overlook the elephant in the room….
Have you looked at Colonial’s D6 and D9
Not sure what all rules you are working against…but usually their stuff is embraced by the greenies?!
(Don’t let descriptions like ‘fragrance solubilizer’ scare you off….these products are used for all sorts of purposes….. If ever there was a Swiss Army knife in cosmetics…. ???? )
-
Umh….how are you checking pH?
Since the phases are reversed….. you cannot just dip your meter in….and expect a correct result.
I would adjust the water phase before combining…and call it good.
Have you ever considered just making a cationic O/W emulsion, to address your desired outcome?
Good Luck.
-
I assume you are using it as a chelate?
When we look at chelating cationics…there are two things we look at
1) Dosing
2) Number of negative charges.
So, to address the first….we use good quality water…and the very low end of use rate.
Secondly, chelates will have different amounts of negative charges, some up to 12 negative charges…. some only have 3. As an example, why EDTA and GLDA get used so much, is they only have 3 negative charges…hence cause far less disruption than say a product with 12.
Bottom line….there is a reason…GLDA is the most universal (not the best….EDTA is king) of the chelates. In my opinion….it checks more boxes than any other chelate on the market. (Just opinion.)
-
chelates also have pH working ranges…where they perform at their best.
The one you mentioned likes higher pH’s, hence is often found in laundry detergent.
MFG propaganda…tends to be a little liberal…when it comes to best option selections, and ranges.
-
-
No….
Water ratio is irrelevant. Only thing that matters is phase orientation.
Your ONLY option is measuring you water phase…just prior to combining. Typically, that will be very close to your combined phase reading. You cannot dip your meter into an w/o and get a correct reading. Whatever you get…will just be a random number…. much like the number that appears…when you turn the meter on. ????
-
Ahhhh…. We badly miscommunicated…I was referring to the inclusion rate of the green tea. All problems with it….go away with the proper inclusion rate of .01%, or even .001%. ????
-
Nope…. .01% works far better than .1%. ????
-
I suspect…. they mislabeled one of their ingredients…. with something like this:
lotioncrafter.com
CAS No. 223705-79-1, 7732-18-5 Honeyquat PF (Paraben Free) is a naturally derived quaternized conditioning agent (polyquaternium) made from honey with excellent moisture binding capabilities (far more powerful than glycerin) for use on skin and hair in both leave-on and rinse-off … Continue reading
-
@chemicalmatt … Can use of PQ-37 handle shear in an emulsion?
I finally got mine (came by boat to Hawaii). I have found both approaches among vendors.
My preferred method…would be to put it in the water phase…. which means it will go through the emulsification shear process. This is generally 2 minutes for me, upon phase combination…and often 45 seconds at the very end, when the last couple of ingredients are tossed in.
Aloha. ????
Anyone can answer the question….of…. can PQ-37 handle shear.
(For that matter…. I can just go shear the PQ-37 & water slurry I made last night….for two min….and see if I lose viscosity.) BTW Matt…. NICE ingredient!
-
-
Here is another more simple one:
Most of your ingredients you listed were ‘claim’ ingredients…(don’t do anything…just for marketing). You can still hang those as ornaments on a basic framework like this. You simply add them at .1%….so they don’t get in the way of the ingredients that are actually doing the work.
Good luck.
-
Just to help point the ship towards the goal…here is a sample formula:
-
It is 100% likely that not all the ingredients were listed. This is commonplace (not typically legal) unfortunately. That INCI…is not plausible….if you are looking for a homogenized product.
May I suggest you look at a large number of similar type ‘professional’ products, and you will find an INCI theme. Great place to learn. Figure out why they included each ingredient. 🙂
-
Optiphen is ONLY a preservative. It has NO emulsifying properties. With this much bug food…. it will be severely challenged to meet its only purpose of preserving.
Honey is a poor humectant…and typically used in trace amounts for ‘claim’. Same with Aloe.
You are missing the fundamental pieces of conditioning…. Cationic ingredients and silicones.
-
With Ceteareth-20 …. would there be any issue with playing well with the low HLB Monolaurin? I am using it as an active in deo, not really as an emulsifier….inclusion rate is .5%. The C-20 will only be used as a co-emulsifier. (My primary emulsion of Mont 202 and SPDMA….not as consistently stable as I want.)
-
Usually keeping inclusion rate at .01% does a pretty good job. 🙂 Leaving it out all together, I found to be the best solution. Drink tea while formulating. But if something were to work….the aforementioned…would be a good choice.
-
Stearamidopropyl dimethylamine
-
Many w/o formulas, especially modern ones…have a very low oil content/phase.
It only refers to the orientation of the phases…not the content.
You should still look at cationic o/w’s as an alternative.
-
Improving Stability of Water-in-Oil Emulsions (ulprospector.com)
ulprospector.com
Ask the Expert: My water-in-oil emulsion is unstable. What can I do?
One of the easiest ways to improve stability is to increase the dispersed water phase to >60%. This increases the viscosity of the emulsion due to internal p
-
Correct…..you can have a w/o with a smaller oil phase.
If you truly have a w/o…then you cannot measure pH (easily) beyond the water phase. Whatever reading you get after combining…is an irrelevant reading. Your meter ALWAYS says something…..just wave it over your head, while dancing on one leg, and throwing eye of newt over your left shoulder…..and you will have a reading….but a meaningless one. ????
-
Emulsion type…is determined by the emulsifier.
-
Well maybe you overlooked it….but they do have ‘kindness’ in there, at the end of the INCI. ????
-
If it is water based…you use water soluble anti-ox’s
If it is oil based…. you use oil soluble anti-ox’s.
????
-
You can NOT measure the pH of a w/o emulsion. (There is some debate on certain hoops one can jump through…. but for a basic rule of thumb…. stick with that comment.)
That is equivalent to waiving your pH meter over your head….and saying that is the pH of air!
If you set your water pH correctly….then that should be sufficient. 🙂 Any reading beyond the water phase will not be accurate.