

Graillotion
Forum Replies Created
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Clearly the NaPCA is below the 1% line….hence it could easily be .01% and in for just the claim.
Over the years…I have NOT found the value of NaPCA, and when I confer with my peers, they tend to agree with me. (Beyond good claim value…. since it is part of NMF.)
The polymeric is Aristoflex AVC, which is probably one of the most hyper-sensitive polymerics on the market…. so I would assume the inclusion of NaPCA is very very low.
BTW…. you can buy PCA without the Na …. just saying. ????
Aloha
Just for fun…. make a slurry of Aristoflex AVC, and water….. add drops of NaPCA while stirring….till it loses viscosity. I think it will shock at how quickly the steric hinderance let’s go! ????
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Graillotion
MemberNovember 10, 2024 at 7:37 pm in reply to: Title: Recommendations on Chemists Corner Course and Cosmetic Science ProgramsMaster of Science in Cosmetic Science | UC Online
online.uc.edu
Master of Science in Cosmetic Science
Our Master of Science in Cosmetic Science is globally recognized as one of the oldest cosmetic science graduate programs in the country and offered online.
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not familiar with that last line ingredient…. but I have used Sodium Metabisulfite on occasion, and the scent is not soon forgotten. ????
Make a small batch of the formula…leaving out the last line….and see if you still have the odor. (Aka: knockout experiment.)
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Maybe a couple things to look at:
Many natural colorants are pH dependent. You have included an ingredient that will change pH until it is exhaused….meaning you have induced your own pH drift. Remove that and see it if persists.
Many natural colorants will oxidize with time (and not that much is required). Consider antioxidants. Memba, they only work in the phase they are soluble in, so you might need both a water and lipid soluble one.
Consider packaging as well….often light is your enemy in a situation like this.
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Graillotion
MemberOctober 24, 2024 at 3:06 pm in reply to: Limonene, Linalool, Hydroxycitronellal and othersWhen you see an INCI like this:
That last grouping is typically (all though possible) not added as individual ingredients. As some of the preservatives that get used by the ‘natural’ folk have ended up on the naughty list. I am not an EU expert…but I do believe that part of that listing requirement…is to post them at the end.
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Easiest way is to reduce tacky inputs. If you are dealing with G… then see if you can sub some of it for 1,3 propanediol, or butylene glycol.
Otherwise, your other option is to ‘out slippery’ the sticky. Use emollients/esters at such propensity, the slippery aspect prevails.
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Yes, I would throw out anything with a Geogard preservative! How did you expect to cover Gram negative bacteria?
The poor job that Geogard preservatives do on the other aspects of the formula, are very pH dependent, and you did not even mention pH??? Above a pH of 5.5, the product isn’t doing much on the Gram +, and YMF.
Just because other beginners use poor preservation, does not mean you should follow the herd. Consider the health of your customers, and family.
This link… might be a good place to start, not written by beginners.
Preservative Reviews - (makingskincare.com)
makingskincare.com
PreservativesAll you need to know!Learn how to preserve effectivelyCommon strategies chemists use to pass preservative testsPreservative free?True or false? Previous Next Free, online skincare formulation course from Chemists Corner, Swiftcraftymonkey and Making Skincare.As a first step to making your own … Continue reading
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You should understand that very clever language is used to manipulate those without the science backgrounds…. everything down to the worst of the worst….will use meaningless terms like ‘broad spectrum’. I cannot think of two more meaningless words in cosmetics!
I have seen the method that beginners use to select their preservation systems…. They will …. wait for it …. survey other beginners on what to use. Do you see any concerns with that?
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A little confused with the question…..unless you are being name-brand specific.
Posting your country….is always of value, on Q’s like this.
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I don’t buy ingredients from Amazon….but thought this was funny.
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Graillotion
MemberSeptember 30, 2024 at 5:02 am in reply to: Old Spice fragrance from the 1970s (or earlier?)Is that something different than was is typically called ‘Bay rum’ fragrance? Everyone sells it.
Bay Rum Fragrance Oil – Wellington Fragrance
wellingtonfragrance.com
The traditional mans fragrance, similar to Old Spice. Invigorating and masculine, with spice notes. Top: Apple, Orange, Cinnamon Leaf, AllspiceMiddle: Dark Rum, Bay, Clove BudBottom: Benzoin Resin, Patchouli, Tonka, Vanilla, Musk
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Response to pH will be directly correlated to the individual. Some can handle higher pH….others cannot. You cannot paint that canvas with a broad brush!
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Umh…. TEC does not have pH. Typically when ingredients don’t have a measurable pH….they are added to water…and that reading is used. Congratulations !!!! You now know the pH of the water they added. TEC is an ester….the citric is bound…it takes lower pH’s….if you want any of it let go. Any result you got…was likely form other inputs.
Good luck.
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Graillotion
MemberOctober 12, 2024 at 8:04 pm in reply to: Held to Ransom by Your Mosquito Repellent?With all respect you said:
“The mosquito-repelling is done by an essential oil called Eucalyptus Lemon Scented Gum Oil (Eucalyptus citriodora)”
What your intent with that language was….only you know. How a beginner will read that…we all know…..
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Graillotion
MemberOctober 12, 2024 at 3:00 pm in reply to: Held to Ransom by Your Mosquito Repellent?Then you already know that Lemon Eucalyptus oil has almost no repelling, other than beyond placebo levels. The essential oil is often mistaken by novices as the same thing as Oil of lemon Eucalyptus, which is it NOT. OLE contains high levels of PMD, which have been proven effective. Lemon Eucalyptus E.O has very negligible amounts of PMD.
You just feed the mommy blogger lore, when you don’t make these distinctions in your post.
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Back to your original question….let’s call in the expert, Dr Geis…. @PhilGeis Do you see any concerns with heating a preservative containing: Benzyl Alcohol (and) Salicylic Acid (and) Glycerin (and) Sorbic Acid
To a temp of 75C?
PS: Time to buy a pH meter. ????
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Ahh…………..
Yes the iscaguard PEG will help. We don’t work in brand names….just INCI.
So I finally looked it up….and it contains phenoxy….which will get the gram -.
Good luck. (Going forward…..tell us what is in things…. we don’t memorize brand names). ????
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The entire line is weak on Gram - , hence why it is mostly relegated to beginners. Granted you can use them as a starting point… and build off of them….but why bother, when it is simply easier to preserve correctly right out of the gate? The link I sent…addressed the additional version you inquired about.
It actually brings a new set of problems….and that is pH drift with the Gluconolactone.
By the way Vit E has no effect on preservation. It is an antioxidant, not a preservative. And worse yet, at the rate you used it….it is a pro-oxidant vs the desired outcome. In cosmetics….it is quite often the case….that more is worse. The E rate that will be sufficient will be .05% - to .2% if you think your product is old and low efficacy (the darker it is…the more oxidized it is).
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Graillotion
MemberSeptember 30, 2024 at 3:56 pm in reply to: Which emulsifier is more robust: PEG 100 Stearate or Ceteareth 20?Yes, I was aware of how little of those strong anionics they use in those blends. In the past I have used SSG as a co-emulsifier quite often.
As of late….I have fallen in love with SPDMA as my co-emulsifier. ???? Just had to learn to love HP starch….and I have a new love.
I don’t use Rita M…. was just trying to help out some beginners. In your answer you mention oil content…. since the topic is beginners….we know there is too much oil. But could you extrapolate on that idea?
Aloha, and thank you for your time and input, @ketchito .
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Graillotion
MemberSeptember 30, 2024 at 3:48 pm in reply to: Old Spice fragrance from the 1970s (or earlier?)This (excellent) company sells very small samples….so it is not costly to give a handful of interesting fragrances….a trial.
For women…. they have an English Pear and Freesia…..that most women swoon for.
If you use those dreaded EO’s …. one of the few non-citrus….that I can even tolerate….is their Himalayan Cedar… pretty neat stuff… not the same nasty cat pee and pencil shavings you get from most cedars….quite sweet.
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Graillotion
MemberSeptember 30, 2024 at 3:43 pm in reply to: Old Spice fragrance from the 1970s (or earlier?)Yes….Bay rum is the iconic knock-off of Old Spice. Granted in this space….there are 100’s of sellers….there are also likely several mfg’s ….. So the knock-off could vary from seller to seller.
It never appealed enough (at all) to me…..to evaluate. If you want two modern scents….that will make folks swoon…..I will attach them.
Aventus Creed Men Type Fragrance Oil – Wellington Fragrance
Woodsage & Seasalt Jo Malone Type Fragrance Oil – Wellington Fragrance
Give those two a ‘look-see’.
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Graillotion
MemberSeptember 28, 2024 at 9:49 pm in reply to: Which emulsifier is more robust: PEG 100 Stearate or Ceteareth 20?@ketchito What about those emulsifiers that contain both? ie Ritamulse? (Glyceryl Stearate & Cetearyl Alcohol & Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate) I see those folks having issues with phase inversions….is this due to the emulsifier blend, or more probable that their addition of additional fatty alcohols is throwing the soup out of balance?