

Graillotion
Forum Replies Created
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I use small amounts of Everclear 190 as a solvent in a couple of extracts. The combined totals never exceed 3% of a given formula.
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Graillotion
MemberMarch 29, 2022 at 3:06 pm in reply to: Natural preservative replacement for Germall PlusAnca_Formulator said:@Graillotion Wowza! Thanks for the secret sauce recipe. Never would I have put all of those things together. What does TSGD aka GLDA stand for?
That is a natural chelate.
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Graillotion
MemberMarch 29, 2022 at 3:18 am in reply to: Natural preservative replacement for Germall PlusI’m kinda Coocoo for cocoa puffs…but here is the program I use…and my crap last for years and years.
E 9010
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TSGD aka GLDA
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Hydroxyacetophenone
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4.8 pH (and 5.2 when using HydroVance)
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A nice jag of glycols, especially Pentylene glycol, but also a splash of 1,2-hexanediol, caprylyl glycol.
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phenethyl alcohol (as several of my products are creams).As you can see….the hurdle approach is used…except for the creams…: where I drop the ball with packaging.
So my big recommendation for you…would be lower your pH to 4.5 to 4.8, as you are almost to the safer zone. That will take you miles. Never hurts to toss a kiss of TEC in there as well…just to keep everything minding their P’s and Q’s.
Aloha.
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Please also list your packaging…as that comes into play with your ingredient choices.
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Guessing that ‘soaps’ pretty bad….might try a version with the Olive M in the water phase…and if you are not opposed to dimethicone…add a little of that.
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Have you tried a knockout experiment?
I’d probably start with the Silver.
OMG…you have the whole wish list in there!
…and lots of bug food…and no mention of pH.
I’d lose anything with the word Leucidal, and work with preservatives known to work. Not sure if just phenethyl and EHG is enough for that formula.
It does take the percentages…for the group to really help.
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Graillotion
MemberMarch 27, 2022 at 1:20 am in reply to: Great Sunday Video….I call it…’Don’t piss off the Chemist.’ngarayeva001 said:Great video. I like how she destroyed them. Very politely but yet brutally. Especially the cutting retinol molecule partYeah, had a total school yard feel to it…with the mention of the field his degrees are in, and the mention of his mother.
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Graillotion
MemberMarch 27, 2022 at 1:07 am in reply to: How would one go about creating a “mousse” or “souffle” textured emulsion?⁉️MarkBroussard said:@emma1985:Form the emulsion and upon cool down incorporate a starch (Tapioca Starch works well) with a whisk at high speed.
@MarkBroussard, I have recently become fascinated with the starches on a different project. I am always interested to know…when someone calls out a starch by name…why that one? So… Why Tapioca? And what if it is a tapioca that has been hydrophobically modified with polymethylsilsesquioxane, like the one sold my MC?
I had fallen in love with that starch…until I met: CORN PO4 PH B, which is my new love. (INCI: distarch phosphate) -
Graillotion
MemberMarch 22, 2022 at 6:20 pm in reply to: Where to find small quantity of Deoplex (Carruba)?ari_418 said:OMG, you are a lifesaver. The preservative system in the Formulator sample shop is leuicide- I’m not super familiar with it but I have doubts about “natural” preservatives vs conventional ones (bramble berry has Na Benzoate/K sorbate). What do you think?Leucidal is completely worthless. I assume your final product will be properly preserved?
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Graillotion
MemberMarch 22, 2022 at 5:32 am in reply to: Where to find small quantity of Deoplex (Carruba)?Deodorant Additive | Bramble Berry
Saccharomyces Ferment (formulatorsampleshop.com)
I’d sure want more than that…in my deo!
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Graillotion
MemberMarch 17, 2022 at 11:04 pm in reply to: Dermosoft® decalact deo MB …. Now available small pak.PhilGeis said:I’d not get carried away with the efficacy claimI use it as part of a multi-tiered program.
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Graillotion
MemberMarch 17, 2022 at 3:08 pm in reply to: Dermosoft® decalact deo MB …. Now available small pak.chemicalmatt said:Thanks for the 411 @Graillotion. I will posit however that the triethyl citrate is doing the deodorizing heavy lifting in that blend. Sage smells nice though.TEC is only in there at a solvent level…. And with a use rate of .5%….you will never notice the TEC… I add 5% TEC on top of the decalact.
🙂
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…Meaning….if it is a water-soluble problem, throwing oil soluble solutions at it won’t be prudent, and visa versa.
…And if you have no idea…then toss one water soluble, and one oil soluble solution at it….or do a knock-out with different anti-ox’s…and it will help you find the culprit.
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I may live in the world’s most humid climate. My solution…. buy SMALL AMOUNTS…and use the desiccant paks.
Aloha
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As my chemist once told me… determine the phase the oxidation is happening in, and address it accordingly.
Just throwing one against the wall: N-acetylcysteine (NAC)
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Graillotion
MemberMarch 15, 2022 at 7:33 pm in reply to: How to formulate alcohol and PG free natural “rogaine”Gordof said:hi Do you mean minoxidil? Melatonin does not have any effect on hair growth as far as knowing (skin Pigment) the only scientifically based raw material I know of is minoxidil?
Unfortunately, he meant what he said. Here is pretty comical study said formula posted:
From January to April 2003 a double-blind, placebo-controlled cross-over study was conducted at the Forenap Centre Hospitalier in Rouffach, France on eight healthy women to assess the clinical and biological tolerability of cosmetic melatonin. One group of this study were applied with a 0.0033% cosmetic melatonin solution once daily on their scalp each night before bedtime, while another group were treated with a placebo solution following the same protocol as the other group.
Within the duration of the study, all the participants were monitored every 14 days for any abnormal increase or decrease in their blood pressure and heart rate as well as any observable increase or decrease in their endogenous melatonin secretions. Based on the results of the electrocardiogram readings collected from all of the participants at the end of this study, showed no significant increase in blood pressure and heart rate for all the participants. But according to clinical laboratory tests for serum melatonin levels done on all participants, it was observed that a gradual increase in blood serum melatonin levels, which was vital for hair growth and restoration, was noted on the participants who were treated with the cosmetic melatonin solution.
Thus concluding that treatment with topical Melatonin is generally tolerable and hardly show any adverse reaction as compared to that of placebo.
So…they concluded… melatonin is not super toxic, therefore you can extrapolate that forward, that it will grow hair. This stuff is just amazing!
That last sentence I put in bold…is just classic scientific evaluation!
I think from the marketing, and secondary ingredients…they are working on the concept of DHT blocker, hoping to reduce hair fall.
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Graillotion
MemberMarch 11, 2022 at 6:17 am in reply to: Face Cream gives everyone tingling sensation…What’s wrong?Allantoin is 6X too high…but doubt it would cause the tingling…just be abrasive since that much won’t dissolve.
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Graillotion
MemberMarch 8, 2022 at 7:49 am in reply to: Propylene glycol irritation. I thought this was a rather benign ingredient?jemolian said:Propanediol should be less sensitizing.You can search for Propanediol on https://www.cir-safety.org/ingredients , look at table 12, page 61 of the PDF for a comparison that they reviewed.
That link did not take me where you might have thought. Can you screenshot the image?
Aloha.
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Graillotion
MemberMarch 8, 2022 at 6:09 am in reply to: Propylene glycol irritation. I thought this was a rather benign ingredient?I guess the second question I should have asked would be….
Since I do not formulate with PG….but I do use the kissing cousin… Propanediol…. can I expect the same level of irritation given the same parameters of testing?
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Ah… w/o…out of my league….every venture I took down that path…caused hair loss…and I have none to spare.
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I think the group needs a little more information.
Assuming your pH is below 6, considering your choice?
My personal theory is….(and this is just me)…. if you emulsion is so close to the edge…that a preservative upsets it…than you haven’t build a good enough system. Since you did not show your formula….we do not even know the emulsifier…and builders you used.
I think better answers will be forthcoming if you provide more information.
I use E 9010….but then come right back and add some 1,2-hexanediol and 1,2-octanediol (caprylyl glycol). Never had an issue. But I am usually using a 3 way blend of a Montanov, some 165 and GSC. Anything 165 based…is gonna be pretty hard to destroy.
Aloha. -
Stanley said:My only problem with Jedwards is they ship from MA.
Most shippers…will ship nationwide.
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I use generic Everclear….because it is cheaper…and even higher proof…190. Ethanol is ethanol. Typically I am using it as a solvent for myrrh, and a few other specialty extracts I concoct. It does not exceed…1-3% of my formulas.
It is of course volatile, so formulate accordingly. -
Also in the West… Making Cosmetics.
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Syl said:Jedwars is my favorite too, are they not located in Braintree MA ?
Yes, they are….don’t know where my head was!