Forum Replies Created

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  • Graillotion

    Member
    June 24, 2024 at 1:36 pm in reply to: Yellowish product because of vitamin E

    Use rate is 5 to 10X higher than should be. Range it between .05 and .1%.

    You did not say…are there even natural oils to protect in the formula? (Do you need the E)

    Acetate form does not protect oils…so if that is the goal, don’t select that form.

    There are alternatives…. Like Rosemary oil extract.

    Since you did not list the formula….it could also me something entirely differently.

    Good Luck.

  • Graillotion

    Member
    June 14, 2024 at 3:35 pm in reply to: About Cetiol Ultimate

    Goes in the oily phase.

    As with anything in this broad category (emollients)….there are many aspects to consider. I once tried to put this in a deodorant for people with sensitive armpit skin (me)…. I almost went to the hospital! Solvents often get lumped into the emollient section. Never forget that skin is coated in sebum….and solvents dissolve sebum. Hence you have to look at your emollients/solvents very closely for what you are attempting to accomplish.

    Probably the first category break-out would be volatility….the one you mentioned is volatile. If this is a requirement? If so, you have knocked many of the candidates out of the race.

    For me, D5 was the perfect replacement….it could be used on sensitive skin with no need to be dialing 9-1-1 while applying. (Of course, D5 is not really gonna deliver actives….but there is a myriad of ways to get that done.) * Note: C Ultimate could be used on any of my other skin parts that are not as sensitive skin!

    So, an early take-away I had to learn….was…. many emollients are solvents, and how much of that aspect do I want in the product. Penetration enhancers…well, they are a dime a dozen.

  • Graillotion

    Member
    June 13, 2024 at 9:39 pm in reply to: how to fix drifting pH

    You have not listed any credible preservatives. You may need to hit rewind….and consider better preservatives.

    Preservative Reviews - (makingskincare.com)

    Things that maintain pH are called buffers. Things like Arginine will alter pH to a desired point, but generally will not continue to hold them in place like a buffer.

    I would consider starting with better preservatives, and seeing if the pH drift continues. I assume you are using a meter to take these readings?

    When discussing a topic like this…we need more information. Things like is urea in the product or gluconolactone…etc…etc… It is very hard to address a concern…when lots of guessing is involved. (You did not even tell us which way the pH is drifting. ???? )

    Good Luck.

  • I don’t see the correlation between deodorant and your question…. Just look at any ready made emulsifier…use 165 type as an example….generally the ratio is 2 parts GMS to 1 part PEG 100. Look at something that has cetearyl alcohol and Ceteareth 20….you will find similar. This is consistent around the industry. Read any of George Deckners blurbs in the knowledge center…and you’ll see these ratios mentioned with frequency.

    Answer is NO in regards to, does having more low hlb than high….make it W/O. This is often the case in O/W. GMS is often used as a thickener in O/W emulsions.

  • Graillotion

    Member
    June 10, 2024 at 3:09 am in reply to: Inner Thigh Whitening

    N-Acetyl-D Glucosamine (GlucoBright™) - Glucosamine - Brightens the skin. Moisturizing the skin - MySkinRecipes

  • Graillotion

    Member
    June 10, 2024 at 3:02 am in reply to: Inner Thigh Whitening

    Just happened to have this page open…when you called. Might be able to glean some insight here:

    Z-WhiteTM (Zinc Glycinate) (myskinrecipes.com)

  • Graillotion

    Member
    June 7, 2024 at 2:35 pm in reply to: When to add dimethicone in a lotion?

    As my mentor taught me… the silicones (unless you are using silicone emulsifiers specifically) are the most difficult ingredient to emulsify in the entire product. Hence…you want it in there as EARLY as possible…so it gets the WHOLE emulsifying experience, start to finish.

    Obviously Dimethicone above 6cst is not volatile…and not heat sensitive as well.

    (And even if it was volatile…we would just end up getting a lecture on vapour pressures and boiling points…and being a ‘dumb American’) ????

    Aloha.

  • Graillotion

    Member
    June 6, 2024 at 11:46 pm in reply to: Inner Thigh Whitening

    I was gonna go with sand paper….????

    but how about pairing the Niacinamide with some NAC? That is usually a good combo. Use the NAC at half the rate of the Niacinamide.

    I’ll also go with….any licorice extract is worthless…. get the direct derivatives.

    Here is a sample of what they have..and what they do, from my go to supplier:

  • Graillotion

    Member
    June 18, 2024 at 10:30 pm in reply to: Dissolving Allantoin

    Very. ????

    What scientific. peer reviewed material are you basing a need for higher rates of allantoin than can go into water?

  • Graillotion

    Member
    June 13, 2024 at 9:47 pm in reply to: Buffering Question

    As mentioned… Caprylhydroxamic Acid, has some chelating activity….so gonna eat up your copper. In my mind, that is the only good thing about Caprylhydroxamic Acid….is the chelating aspect. Every other aspect is intensely negative.

    Lose the peptide, or keep it at .001% for marketing material.

  • Graillotion

    Member
    June 12, 2024 at 9:58 pm in reply to: Buffering Question

    @Kireisha what chelate and what preservative are you using? Is there something more than ‘caprylhydroxamic acid’ in the mixture?

  • Graillotion

    Member
    June 10, 2024 at 2:59 am in reply to: Inner Thigh Whitening

    Sorry…typo. Should have been NAG!

    Classic combo for whitening.

    n-acetyl glucosamine

  • Graillotion

    Member
    June 9, 2024 at 2:43 pm in reply to: Pentylene Glycol and Preservative 12 Compatability

    Do you have any idea…. how much edta you eat every day…should you partake in any type of processed food? ????

  • Graillotion

    Member
    June 9, 2024 at 2:40 pm in reply to: Pentylene Glycol and Preservative 12 Compatability

    If it makes you feel any better, use the PE 9010 at .85% and the chelate at .15%….and bingo….you have elevated your preservation beyond belief…and not changed your ratios. ????

    Another one that can usually be passed off on those that don’t understand chemistry is… GLDA, aka TSGD.

    Good luck.

  • Graillotion

    Member
    June 9, 2024 at 12:40 am in reply to: When to add dimethicone in a lotion?

    Actually…the test I gave is probably a poor metric. Even mercury is volatile…and I doubt you could live long enough….to see one drop completely volatilize. ????

    People just seem to lose their minds….when they hear the word ‘volatile’.

  • Graillotion

    Member
    June 8, 2024 at 3:54 pm in reply to: How to work with Bakuchiol, alpha arbutin and kojic acid

    Maybe this little piece of perspective will help.

    The entities in society that are tasked with your well being ….wait for it …. have NO INTEREST in cosmetics….and how you look. ???? Hence those entities tend to focus on cancer…and major health issues. FOCUS = FUNDING. So….if those tasked with societal research don’t care about cosmetics….whom is left….you know…who is doing the studies on cosmetics? Simple…..those with a vested financial interest, that stand to gain. So, you have just established that the fox is guarding the chicken house.

    Will let you put the rest of the pieces in place. ????

  • Graillotion

    Member
    June 6, 2024 at 11:39 pm in reply to: How to work with Bakuchiol, alpha arbutin and kojic acid

    Ahh….the classic ‘cosmetic study’…. please understand, I am giggling so hard…it is hard to stay in my recliner.

    There is pretty much a ‘study’ for every cosmetic ingredient that is backed by a company that can afford a study. Dr Michelle Wong actually did a really good piece (slightly different topic…but exact same line of thought) where she spends a LOT of the time…. focusing on what gets presented as peer reviewed scientific studies. If you interested in educating yourself…take the 28 minutes to watch her video. The topic is about another magical ingredients….and what ends up getting references (studies)….as something legit.

    Please enjoy her video…. will help you understand what you’re up against….a bit better: (memba…don’t let the topic throw you….she spend a lot of the video…focusing on how things are presented in the industry.

    Aloha.


    Rosemary oil for hair growth? How to spot bad science (youtube.com)

  • Graillotion

    Member
    June 8, 2024 at 2:30 am in reply to: When to add dimethicone in a lotion?

    depending on the brand….often the line is between 5 and 6.

    Easy to answer…. leave a drop out on a surface that it cannot penetrate….and see if it is there tomorrow…. Bingo…you have your answer.

  • Graillotion

    Member
    June 8, 2024 at 2:26 am in reply to: When to add dimethicone in a lotion?

    I am saying….it is irrelevant…add it early (to the oil phase). Lots of bad lore on the topic.

    I add my D5… to the oil phase…before heating. Really long technical expose from Pharma on this topic. So, I’ll have to go with….just trust me. ???? You know…vapour pressures…boiling points of volatile silicones….

  • Graillotion

    Member
    June 6, 2024 at 12:04 am in reply to: How to work with Bakuchiol, alpha arbutin and kojic acid

    Thank you for saying this, as you may have shaved years off of a frustrating journey. In our societies where we are inundated with marketing stories…whom seek to blend fact with fiction, it is often difficult for those starting out, to be able to realize not everything is as it seems. ????

    The reason the government allows people to play in cosmetics without much in the way of regulation….is because beyond a few things like moisturization, they are not doing much. If they actually did…they would quickly move into the drug category.

    Good luck.

  • Graillotion

    Member
    June 3, 2024 at 2:47 pm in reply to: Low pH Stick Deodorant

    As shown….some of the commercial brands are dropping below 4. As you go down from 4, your subset of customers that might find some irritation will slowly climb. It also becomes a challenge to find an emulsifier that will be happy.

    In a recent project, where I wanted to use an emulsifier that was happiest no lower than 4.5, I played with the higher pH’s, and found at 4.5 I still had the efficacy I wanted…but began to lose it at 4.9.

    Now keep it mind…I am using a world class set of anti-microbials, not the garden variety type seen in internet/low grade commercial products. So, I would have to suspect, that a lesser slate would lose efficacy MUCH faster with pH modulations.

  • You have missed my point…. completely. Insoluble powders transfer to dark clothing…. simply an inexcusable mess…. Especially considering the jobs they do…can be done better…with ingredients that don’t preclude you from wearing anything but white. ????

    Well, good luck with your project. Over and Out.

  • Might be a good time to review my ALL TIME FAVORITE thread on this site. I like it soooooooo much…. I have considered changing my screen name to: ‘Guffawing Henry’

    Especially read the 2nd entry from Pharma! Priceless.

    mixing magnesium Hydroxide and bicarb of soda - Chemists Corner

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