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Peptide Percents in Face Lotions (and Skin Feel)
I’m making a face lotion and have isolated the tackiness to the peptides in the formula (Snap-8 & Syn-Ake). Manufacturers’ studies show the efficacious levels as being 10% for Snap-8 and 4% for Syn-Ake. Such a high input of peptides makes for a tacky lotion though. I started at 6.5% Snap-8 & 4% Syn-Ake. I’m now down to 2% and 1.5% respectively and my wrinkles are WAY more noticeable to me.
Is it truly a matter of having to choose between a tacky lotion that works well and a lotion that feels nice but doesn’t do the job?
Does anyone have suggestions for peptides designed for wrinkle reduction that might be effective at lower usage rates? I can provide the formula if needed. Thanks.
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11 Replies
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Hmmmn… You sure you weren’t mixing up PPM with Percentage? The other one is 99% filler…so it can probably be used at higher rates. ????
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This reply was modified 1 week, 2 days ago by Graillotion.
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This reply was modified 1 week, 2 days ago by
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Hi Graillotion,
I’m an at home “cook” so I have to buy from smaller distributors. My Snap-8 comes from LotionCrafter as a liquid. The other 99+% is water and caprylyl glycol. LC recommends using 3-10%. I received some mktg & SDS info about it back in March. It shows 0.05% acetyl octapeptide-3, which I think is the same as 500 ppm. The Syn-Ake (Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate) is also a liquid and LC recommends using 4%.
I’m finding that I need to use a higher amount of the liquid products (6.5% Snap-8 & 4% Syn-Ake) in order for them to do a good job on my wrinkles. But using those higher percentages makes the lotion tacky. Cutting the peptides back to 2 / 1.5% makes for a really nice feeling lotion but doesn’t do NEARLY as good a job on the wrinkles.
I’m hoping to find out whether it is typically an either / or question or if whether other options are available. Are you saying that using powders instead of liquids should skirt the issue entirely? If so, and assuming I can dredge some up somewhere, is it just a matter of adding them at cool down and not using shear to mix them in?
Thanks for your help!
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The Syn-Ake has a lot of glycerin which can be sticky. Do you have any other glycerin in your formula?
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No glycerin.
I deformulated Oil of Olay cream but made a lotion instead. Here are the ingredients I’m using, listed by phase:
Water, Rose Hydrosol, Propanediol, Niacinamide Powder, Allantoin, EDTA.
Hemisqualane, Squalane, C12-15 AB, Dimethicone 350, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glyceryl Stearate and PEG-100 Stearate, Behenyl Alcohol, Cetyl Alcohol, Cetyl Esters, Sepimax Zen.
Carob Extract Liquid, Sacha Inchi Extract Liquid, Snap-8, Syn-Ake, Panthenol Powder, Liquid Germall Plus, MT-50 Mixed Tocopherols.
I know there are a million ingredients and some might think it’s more complicated than it needs to be. That’s ok, I don’t mind monkeying around with all of the them since they make a pretty great feeling lotion. Although I don’t want to completely start over because this has been a real undertaking to date, I’m happy to try any suggestions given. I do still need to tweak the hemi / squalane ratio but other than that the peptides are the only glaring issue, feeling-wise.
Thanks.
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Peptides are mostly a marketing ingredient. Mot likely to get the result not from peptides itself, but from the base. You can save money and buy the base alone, add it in high percentage as you do and enjoy the result.
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Hi Fareloz, I’m not familiar with the term “base”. Do you mean a lotion base (i.e., Oil of Olay cream to which I then add peptides) or a peptide base (i.e., dry powders instead of liquids that I add to my current lotion)?
I do have to say that, anecdotally speaking, my face says peptides are not marketing fluff. I can’t speak to all of them but Snap-8 and Syn-Ake, in combination, provided real results. I used to use a DIY face lotion without peptides for a couple of years. I reformulated and once I added the peptides it took a good month to build results. I used the “amped up” lotion, sticky as it was, for at least 6 months. As I backed the peptide levels off to decrease the tack level it became very obvious that the lotion was no longer providing the same effects.
For example, the “11” between my brows became a shallow “1” at the 6.5% / 4% level. At the 2% / 1.5% level it’s back to an “11”. We don’t even want to talk about crow’s feet, it’s just sad.
If you could clarify the about the base I’d really appreciate it.
Thanks so much!
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I mean peptides base. I promise you, if I add peptides base (without peptides themselves) to your lotion formula in the amount you add you won’t notice a difference in blind effectiveness tests
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@Bobalooey You might want to take a look at the paper I’m attaching, especially the conclusions. Unfortunately we are all biased when formulating, that’s why we run tests with more people (and that’s why it’s a good practice in trials to make them double blinded).
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Thank you Ketchito. That was a very good article / study that links up with Fareloz’s theory.
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Film forming and slippery type of ingredients reduce the tacky feeling. Slippery elm, seaweed powder are two ingredients I use to not only improve feel on skin but hydrate without stickiness. Tacky lotions are incredible for the skin which may partially be why its made a huge difference in how your skin looks. But the tacky sensation is awful.
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Thanks MaidenOrangeBlossom. I’ll check those ingredients out!
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