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Perry said:

0.25% active.

So, if you have a 30% solution, 0.25/.3 = 0.83333 or 0.83% in your formula.

Thank you. 

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@zara I would look at the rapeseed oil. It is probably their creative way of saying behentrimonium methosulphate if you know what I mean as this ingredient is derived from colza oil aka rapeseed oil.

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@emma1985 thanks. I am aware that 50 is more stable than 25  but have seen a lot of products with just 25. Why isn’t it recommended? And is it just easier and more cost effective to use the glyceryl stearate?

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@MarkBroussard thanks for responding.  

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@ngarayeva001 no it’s not as far as I can tell. The inci is Butyrospermum parkii (shea) butter. It is sold by Making Cosmetics. Here is a link to the product https://www.makingcosmetics.com/Shea-Butter-Glycerides_p_80.html?locale=en

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@EVchem thanks for your feedback. I have used hemisqualane in an oil blend it had a nice silky feeling but didn’t seem to do anything in a rinse off conditioner. I have some Varissoft EQ 65 that I have yet to try  but hadn’t heard of  the EQ 100.

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@Pharma Thank you. 

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@MarkBroussard this is a repacker site and I have since  heard from the owner of the company. According to the individual  butylene glycol is a processing ingredient and as such does not have to be listed in the inci in the U.S. He said that it may not even be in the final product. However the fact that Croda lists it as part of the ingredients makes me question that. In other words this particular product is good old regular btms 50. I thought it was something new but apparently it isn’t.

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Thanks @Perry and @Microformulation. I have worked with Maltodextrin/VP Coplymer and so I know it is the fixative and carbomer and xanthan are polymers and form gels. I was just wondering about the ability of these polymers to hold oils with out any additional emulsifiers or solubilizers.   I am thinking of incorporating 2%  of a light oil or ester in to a gel I make using HEC and xanthan and was wondering if it would seperate. 

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@microformulation this is the LOI of the product I was referencing where I couldn’t identify either an emulsifier or solubilizer.

Aqua (Water), Glycerin*, Honey*, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice*, Acrylates Copolymer, Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil*, Orbignya Oleifera (Babassu) Seed Oil*, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter)*, Maltodextrin/VP Copolymer, Marshmallow Extract, Pectin, Parfum (Fragrance), Carbomer, Xanthan Gum, Dehydroacetic Acid, Benzyl Alcohol 

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I will start at .5 and see if I get the same effect. It seems as if ethic hair tends to tolerate higher levels of conditioning. I am guessing that this is because of the tightly curled nature of the hair polymer deposition on hair may be at a lesser rate. Most people with ethnic hair tend to use not only more product but multiple products to get the same effect as other hair types. Thanks for your help @chemist77

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Thanks @ chemist77. What would be your max suggested usage rate for polyquat 10?

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That’s what I mostly understand the polymer to be. However I have been using a shampoo that contains this polymer and noticed that my curls seemed more clumped together after washing.There are no other polymers or ingredients listed on the product except for a bunch of extracts and surfactants. When I tried the gel on my hair my curls did clump together and stayed that way when dried. I have never had them do that except with strong hold carbomer gels. I am novice formulator but I wonder if the smoothing action of the polymer reduced the static charge and allowed my hair to come together. It did remain soft to the touch as well. I have ethnic hair and I was surprised at the result as well. I also saw a comment from a user from the point of in interest blog posted some yeears ago from someone with ethnic hair stating that the polymer had a similar effect. I have heard that cationic guar in particular seems to have this type of effect on ethnic hair. Is it similar to the polyquat 10? 

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Thanks…the flaxseed produces a mucilage  which forms a gel and helps holdsthe EO which is next to nothing. This is  for personal use  and I only make 100 grams to use up right away so I didn’t bother with solubilizer. I thought the usage rate for polyquat 10 was up to 2%. I will try it at a lower rate. I added it for the curl retention ability since I have curly hair. Thanks

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Thank you all for the suggestions!

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@DinaAruni 
Did the mold occur even with the germal plus? Wow that is crazy! I definitely don’t want moldy conditioner bars

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No I haven’t! I wanted to get some advice before plunging ahead and I wasn’t sure if I needed preservatives since it will come in contact with water and has honeyquat. Thank you for your input!

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Thank you! The original formula has 60% BTMS and states the purpose as keeping the bar solid as well as functioning as an emulsifier. I haven’t worked with BTMS before so I didn’t know it can be irritating at high levels. Do you think reducing to 50% and increasing the hard butter would help?