Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Hair Conditioner bars vs liquid conditioner

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  • Conditioner bars vs liquid conditioner

    Posted by GARIFUNA on June 20, 2017 at 3:01 pm

    I would like to experiment with making conditioner. I have only made anhydrous items and would like to try other things.In terms of preservation are bars more easily preserved than regular conditioner since there is little water content? I am following a recipe from swiftcraftmonkey as a guide and wanted to use optiphen plus as a preservative. I have read that it causes instability in emulsions and wanted to know if that would be a problem with a solid bar conditioner.

    I have afro textured hair that need lots of conditioning. This the recipe I came up with based on the one from swift!

    HEATED PHASE
    65% BTMS
    10% cetyl alcohol 
    5% cupuacu butter 
    5% cocoa butter
    5% broccoli seed oil
    2% silk peptides
    COOL DOWN PHASE
    4% honeyquat, 
    2% panthenol
    1% fragrance 
    0.5% vitamin e oil
    0.5 % optiphen plus
    DRBOB@VERDIENT.BIZ replied 6 years, 10 months ago 3 Members · 7 Replies
  • 7 Replies
  • DRBOB@VERDIENT.BIZ

    Member
    June 20, 2017 at 5:22 pm
    Why so much BTMS? Could be severe eye irritant. I think you don’t need preservative as bar is anhydrous. You may also need a plastizisor such as maltodextrin.Alao neeeds slip so add a silicone
  • GARIFUNA

    Member
    June 20, 2017 at 7:38 pm

    Thank you! The original formula has 60% BTMS and states the purpose as keeping the bar solid as well as functioning as an emulsifier. I haven’t worked with BTMS before so I didn’t know it can be irritating at high levels. Do you think reducing to 50% and increasing the hard butter would help?

  • DRBOB@VERDIENT.BIZ

    Member
    June 20, 2017 at 9:05 pm

    We can assume your payoff on wet hair to make a 10% solution which would provide 5% BTMS ((in use) if you reduced it to  50% which should be okay.Raise cetyl alcohol and butters proportionately.Have you made the bar yet?

  • GARIFUNA

    Member
    June 20, 2017 at 9:30 pm

    No I haven’t! I wanted to get some advice before plunging ahead and I wasn’t sure if I needed preservatives since it will come in contact with water and has honeyquat. Thank you for your input!

  • DinaAruni

    Member
    June 21, 2017 at 1:30 am

    well i have made conditioner bar with 65% BTMS and so far it doesnt make my eye irritant. My advice you still need preservatives. i use liquid germall plus and put the conditioner in my bathbroom, it become wet and the mold grows after long time i dont use the conditioner so yeah you really need preservatives.

  • GARIFUNA

    Member
    June 21, 2017 at 2:10 am

    @DinaAruni 
    Did the mold occur even with the germal plus? Wow that is crazy! I definitely don’t want moldy conditioner bars

  • DRBOB@VERDIENT.BIZ

    Member
    June 21, 2017 at 3:54 am

    You are likely forming slush after use which means water is unevenly distributed throughout the bar.The germall as a result is not evenly distributed ie. Homogeneous and as a result ineffective. Under the conditions not likely any preservative will work.

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