EVchem
Forum Replies Created
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It’ll depend on the composition of the makeup you are trying to remove. Surfactants are used to remove things because of their amphiphilic nature, oils can only help remove materials of similar polarity. You could add an emulsifier to take your formulation up a notch and make wash-off easier.
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@chemicalmatt- side question: i keep seeing tetrasodium pyrophosphate pop up, what is it’s most common use? Is it used with the hydrogen peroxide to act as a buffer?
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Depends on the powder I think- is it an ‘active’ or an excipient?
The add-on limit will depend on your emulsion as well and what the add-ons are. Without more info, “it depends” is the go-to answer.
Sepimax Zen/ Sepinov EMT 10/ Carbopol Ultrez 21 are nice for cold-process, but I don’t usually use them alone. There’s Jeesperse which has some cold-process waxes but it can be finicky and doesn’t have the same body as a traditional cream. Again, it depends on what feel/product you are going for.
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Yes 0.1% if you had 100% pure CBD, so make sure you give yourself a little buffer. Isolate will still need to be dissolved in oil to uniformly disperse it.
Pesronally, jury is still out for me on whether on form of CBD vs another has benefits for the skin.So the 200x aloe means it is very concentrated. If you were to put 0.1% in, it’s supposed to be equivalent to adding 20% of aloe juice 1x (normal concentration). 1% is so so much, you can keep it if you want but I’d drop the percentage significantly.
I’d say start with the ready-made ‘water-soluble’ CBD, and if you want to make things harder on yourself, then get into emulsifying on your own. Since you only need 0.1% CBD however, you could probably add 0.3% ish of MCT and try using polysorbate for that.
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yep exactly as @ngarayeva001 said. You choose a buffer system based on the pH you want to be at
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1. why 1% CBD oil? when we make CBD products, we usually calculate the mg we want as dependent on the fill size of the bottle, ex 100mg per 30g (with a slight buffer or transfer loss/ margin of error) = 0.40% pure CBD, typically added in 2x-3x MCT. 1% is expensive and will be difficult to incorporate.
2. this will almost certainly not be clear. Most solubilizers have to be used in decent excess of the material to be solubilized, so that will affect formula feel. You could try buying ‘water-soluble’ CBD (just comes pre-solubilized or encapsulated) but what I’ve played with so far has failed 45 C stability depressingly fast. So you’re really looking for an emulsifier at this level
3. Based on the look of your formula I don’t know what emulsifiers you can/will work with, but I’ve tried several and had very poor results. Your aloe powder (is it 200x?) is very high in electrolytes and will likely mess with most emulsifiers, not to mention of giving yourself the extra challenge of making this a toner, a product with extremely low viscosity that is prone to more potential stability problems.
4. I would suggest an additional preservative besides just potassium sorbate- the common pairing is with sodium benzoate.
I hope this all makes sense, those are just my initial thoughts on seeing your post. Not trying to be too discouraging, but to front load you with the challenges and see if you can adjust based on that.
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you can also try pHing the carbomer before adding in alcohol
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If you’re going to add it to your shampoo, only put it in for marketing (0.001%). Shampoo is meant to rinse-off, putting actives in there will just go to waste.
Personally I doubt the ingredient does much. The supplier’s study doesn’t look that great and they were the ones with the most motivation to make it look good!
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1% HA is going to be pretty expensive, you’ll have to use mostly low molecular weight because the higher MW will thicken your product substantially. Probably can’t get the high in at anything over 0.3 maybe 0.4%.
If you are dead set on the HA, the glycerin doesn’t really need to be there.
Sodium anisate has fungicidal activity, but you’ll need a more robust system. it’s commonly paired with Sodium Levulinate, take a look at this brochure for a ready made blend, looks like you should add your preservative first then add HA. You’ll need the pH to be below 5.5 for preservative efficacy. Anisate alone has a use rate of up to 0.4%
The cream isn’t really a cream, its just butters/oils. I usually add my powders while everything is still liquid to make sure it can disperse
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Silicones work so well, I’d definitely recommend them. You can also try cationic guar (https://www.makingcosmetics.com/Guar-Gum-Cationic_p_309.html), or a polyquat (https://www.makingcosmetics.com/Polyquaternium-10_p_82.html)
Do you know what percent of BTMS is the cetearyl alcohol? You may need to bump
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Great question and answers so far! I want to learn more about hair because it really has different needs than skin even though consumers may use the same terms (like ‘moisturized’). @klangridge do you have any resources on hair care formulating you recommend?
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It’s not necessarily incorrect, you will probably have to do a couple studies and just observe how your cooldown process affects the final product hardness. Do you get to a certain temperature before you stop mixing, how long, what kind of mixing (high shear, just a spatula, etc). Those factors are some of the variables you can adjust and see how your results change
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I would think another issue is hydrogen peroxide is a strong oxidizing and a reducing agent. Even at a low concentration I wonder how it would affect the product quality before it degrades
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@MurtazaHakim I think the DB is for Denatonium Benzoate, a common bitterant/denaturant.
I’m a little surprised at the recommendation for non denatured (just stay away from methylated stuff). Denaturants can be as simple as peppermint essential oil, it makes the alcohol much cheaper to transport/bring in.
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https://www.makingcosmetics.com/Carbomer-980-QD_p_620.html (has a limit of 0.5 kg right now). Don’t see anything for ultrez, it’s just too high in demand
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I’d say the extra vessel for the oil phase is needed. You generally want to premix all your oils and may need to heat/stir to make sure that phase is homogeneous before you add it to water phase. Could be used to do other things like hydrate some materials. You can buy a diaphragm/transfer pump to move things over.
I don’t know enough about setting up a whole plant, but I think advice will depend on your needs (volume, do you fill/label/ship, what other machinery do you have, regulations)
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Sepimax Zen? Supposed to be able to tolerate above pH 2.
You could also use grades of xanthan gum that are clear ( those are typically low viscosity though) -
Coconut alkanes by themselves? Vegelight 1214LC from Grant Industries also has coco caprylate/caprate
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Sounds like your company is taking proper precautions. We are still selling because a majority of our clients sell online and have acted unaffected.
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Not sure I understand your question?
I don’t see any AHA’s (things like lactic, glycolic, mandelic acid). Those will provide chemical exfoliation and lightening but can make the skin sensitive, and you need a ph meter (not strips) or you could make the product unsafe.If you put Kojic acid and ascorbic acid in at 5% and 4%, you will see stability issues with your product. Those ingredients go bad fast in water/presence of oxygen.
I also don’t see B3 (Niacinamide). That one is worth putting in (in my opinion), there are several studies that show a couple benefits from that material being applied topically.
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https://dfw.cbslocal.com/2020/03/27/hair-dye-kit-sales-covid-19-at-home-workers-salons/
absolutely on the home kits, Madison Reed reporting 750% increase!
@jemolian you look on r/skincareaddiction or one of the other subs?
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@amitvedakar I’ve seen use of Triisopropanolamine, it’s recommended for neutralizing especially when there is high (like 80-90%) alcohol content
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Sodium Polyacrylate is not electrolye-tolerant at all. the Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer can actually be several different grades of material, commonly its Carbopol Ultrez 21- it can still be affected by electrolytes/actives but my guess is not as bad as your ‘easymix’. I would definitely start with a much simpler base and then build in actives so you can see what causes trouble easily. For instance if you’ve really got 1.5% Coenzyme Q 10 (Ubiquinone) your stability issues are just beginning
Sepimax Zen (INCI Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6) is very resistant to salts, I’d recommend it here. It can handle alcohol if you decide to dissolve you salicylic acid that way, though a glycol would probably also work. Gums like xanthan will work but they can feel pretty gross in high amounts. Sclerotium has an okay feel but difficult to process and get consistent results each time. Those are my
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You are going to have pretty short shelf-life/stability. Ascorbic acid and Kojic alone at the levels you have them will brown and destroy your emulsion pretty fast (plus your retinol if it is retinol at 0.8% would likely cause some serious irritation, also easily loses potency)- unless you are making this formula in air-free conditions/packaging? If your vitamin E is tocopheryl acetate my personal opinion is remove it- it has no proven antioxidant ability on the shelf, and poor activity topically. It it’s tocopherol 1% might be overkill, possible pro-oxidant.
If you want lightening and exfoliation I’d say an AHA type product is your best bet, but that’s not something to mess with unless you have a pH meter and should only be used at night or applying sunscreen after