[ESChemlover]

perri said:

What is the ratio of salicylic acid and arbutin? I only have raw materials, and I will not make finished products suitable for human faces.

Hi Perri - I don’t quite understand what you mean or what you are trying to say here. But if you are asking about how much ARBUTIN i used in the final product - the answer is none, i completely removed it.  

[ESChemlover]

Special thanks to everyone that participated in this forum topic! I was able to get an elegant formula in the end. For the moisturizers - i narrowed down to 2 actives instead of all the actives i had initially. For the cleanser, I made the salicylic 1% instead.

[ESChemlover]

ketchito said:

@ESChemlover In general, the preservative system in your formulas might not be robust enough, especially with the type of extracts you’re using. Also:

1) not sure how much glycerin you’re using, but you use it in a cleanser only as claim ingredient, also, so your foam is not impaired  

2) amidoamines are not usual in skin leave-on products; maybe you could switch to a non charged emulsifier?

3) why are you writing Vitamin A in your Pistacia? If you meant it as a source of it, you better mention that, since the INCi of vitamin A is different. Also, don’t use much of Aloe Barbadensis, sin it can increase the risk of microbial contamination of your product.

ketchito said:

@ESChemlover In general, the preservative system in your formulas might not be robust enough, especially with the type of extracts you’re using. Also:

1) not sure how much glycerin you’re using, but you use it in a cleanser only as claim ingredient, also, so your foam is not impaired  

2) amidoamines are not usual in skin leave-on products; maybe you could switch to a non charged emulsifier?

3) why are you writing Vitamin A in your Pistacia? If you meant it as a source of it, you better mention that, since the INCi of vitamin A is different. Also, don’t use much of Aloe Barbadensis, sin it can increase the risk of microbial contamination of your product.

Hi @Ketchito Thank you for your response, I appreciate your input. 

Why do you feel like my preservative system for there 3 products are not adequate enough and what would you choose as a more effective alternative here and why? - i appreciate you input!

1. I am using a little glycerin in the formula to help gently removes dirt, oils and make-up from the skin. Also as a humectant to help cleanse without leaving the skin feeling dry and stripped. 

2. Amidoamines (Stearamidopropyl dimethylamine) in this formula - i am using it as an alternative to silicones in the formula since it’s derived from vegetable oil, and like silicones can be used to keep oils and waters properly blended in this oil free formula, is considered vegan, and it feels very nice - is there a more effective alternative you would want me to consider?

3. @Pharma is right about the gum mastic - either way it’s not an ingredient in my marketing plan for this product. Because this is more of a peptide moisturizer product i am thinking of  adding 3 % of peptides intsead of 1% in this peptide moisturizer, and reducing the alpha arbutin from 5% to say 2% to avoid sensitizing users and regulatory issues + solubility issues.

Also, is ethyl ascorbic acid (vitamin c) a great addition or can i just go without it here?

Thank you

[ESChemlover]

Pharma said:

1. Correct, salicylic acid doesn’t do anything in a rinse-off product. Add less, this won’t keep you from using it as claim ingredient.

2. Depends on your definition (or rather that of your clients) of oil.

3. Is it a brightening/bleaching product or a moisturiser? If it’s the former, adding also licorice would totally fit the claims. You’d be on the safer side to use ethyl ascorbate instead of ascorbic acid. 5% arbutin is limit because you risk that it’s not fully dissolved.

Did you actually make these products or are you only planning on making them?

Thank you for your response, I appreciate your input. I have a sample batch I am trying out - but I haven’t fully made the product.

1. Thank you for validating that - I’ll probably use 0.5% Salicylic here
2. Consumers are now have more skincare information but are grossly misinformed - I am thinking whats correct on paper here - will this polymer be seen as oil free
3. I am aiming for a peptide moisturizer with brightening and anti-aging properties (not bleaching at all but brightening) - will 2% alpha aurbutin be ideal instead - i also want the product to be ok for the EU market as a cosmetics. I am also using prefer ethyl ascorbic acid because its very stable

[ESChemlover]

Abdullah said:

Why are sodium gluconate and xanthan gum highest in your formulas. 

Hi Abdullah, Thank you for responding - the ingredients are not written in the order - so sodium gluconate as chelating agent ( 0.1-1.0%) and xanthan gum (thickening agent, texture enhance) are not the highest in the formula.