[emma1985]

Larger batches of anhydrous products are ALWAYS going to develop more graininess than smaller batches. Because they take longer to cool.

Controlled cooling is extremely important with anhydrous products.

Never ever do a hot pour, always stir until the product starts gaining some viscosity before pouring.

You can use an ice bath, but I actually prefer to use a cool water bath because the product begins solidifying too quickly in an ice bath, in my experience.

After pouring, put the products in the refrigerator to set up. I NEVER let my anhydrous products set up at room temperature. The point is quick, controlled, even cooling.

You are already doing one thing right, adding your oils after melting the wax and butter. This helps with controlled cooling.

Unfortunately Candellila Wax is one of the more grainy waxes. If you don’t want to switch to another wax, try the method I’ve explained.

[emma1985]

Syl said:

@emma1985 Very nice videos,  I will have to try making one of your formulations. 

Thank you so much! Please let me know how it turns out. ????☺️

[emma1985]

Paprik said:

The shear type is not defined by the speed. It is defined by the mixing head. You are definitely using high shear even under low speed. 

Yeah, @Graillotion, what do you think about the high shear?

I know that some of them are shear tolerant or resistant, some even require high shear (apparently haven’t found one yet), so I’m a bit skeptical about it. 

The first video has Tocopherol Acetate. That has no antioxidant benefits for the formula, only for skin. 

Anyway, good job, keep posting  

Yes, I used Acetate in that one because I wanted to keep the product a bright white color, and my Tocopherol is dark brown. ???? I usually use Tocopherol or ROE (which is also brown.)

And that is good to know about the shear.

[emma1985]

Paprik said:

@emma1985, thanks Ema for the videos. Well done  
I am a bit worried about the high shear too. I don’t really think they are even high shear tolerant. I guess you do destroy some of that polymer during the mixing. Have you tried low shear only? And compared the two products? 
I think the main reason why it didn’t separate is due to the waxy emulsifier. 

Also, you are using quite a bit of butters and oils, but no antioxidant to protect them. 

But love the format of your videos  

Hey! Thanks for the feedback, I really really appreciate it!!

I actually tend to use my immersion blender on low to medium speed most of the time, and virtually never on high speed. The blender goes from 1-5 speed settings and I almost never go over 3.

I don’t think it stayed together just because of the waxy emulsifier. I make emulsions using only polymers often and use the same practices.

I did use Vitamin E in the first and third video. In the second video, I used Q Max, which contains Vitamin E. ????

Graillotion is a good person to ask about polymers and whether or not they tolerate shear as well, he uses them very often (he got me into them.) ☺️

[emma1985]

If you watch the second video I mention it. I only ever blend for 2-4 minutes total. It might look like more. 

You just have to be a bit careful. But I’ve never had an emulsion break from too much blending, and I use polymers in virtually every product I make.

They tolerate shear, just not a lot of shear, in my experience.

Thank you so much!! ????????

[emma1985]

Perry said:

@emma1985 - nice job with the videos!

Thank you so much. That really means the ???? to me. I’ve learned so much here and hoping to share it with others. ????

[emma1985]

GeorgeBenson said:

@emma1985 i really want to try aristoflex but unfortunately my current formula contains electrolytes. Please do link your aristoflex videos, i would love to see them. Thanks!

https://youtu.be/1ZqE2SLT1ik

https://youtu.be/npQUDWrJTlI

https://youtu.be/YdJjRnqlJGs

Here you go. I just started and am trying to get better at this. ????

[emma1985]

Anecdotally, no water based cleanser removes waterproof eye makeup and sunscreen like any oil based cleanser does.

There really is a big difference.

[emma1985]

Not specific to Leucidal but Labmuffin has an amazing video basically debunking “natural skincare.” I send it to everyone. She features a toxicologist in the video as well.

https://youtu.be/wkWX2AXNuxg

[emma1985]

I’m shocked you don’t notice a difference between Sepiplus and Sepimax. Maybe you’re using low concentrations?

Sepimax creates super wobbly and jiggly products. I use it in jelly masks and such. Also it’s the most electrolyte tolerant, so I use it in cleansers and AHA products.

Sepiplus, on the other hand, is a whole different beast. I feel like Sepiplus emulsions are incredibly close to emulsions made with emulsifying waxes, and I LOVE the super glossy and smooth emulsions it produces. It creates the most creamy emulsions, whereas the other polymers definitely create “gel creams.”

ETA: my apologies, I just saw that you haven’t used Sepimax.

You should also try Aristoflex, I put that it in everything. It creates incredibly elegant products and I find it to be the most versatile.

I have some YouTube videos in which I use Aristoflex if you’re interested. I’ll link them if you are.

I also have Polymulse but not a huge fan.

Welcome to the wonderful world of polymers, trust me when I say you will NEVER want to be without them.

[emma1985]

Castor Oil. It’s very viscous, sticky and substantive. That’s why it’s used so much in lip products. Unrefined and cold pressed Pomegranate Seed Oil is also viscous and sticky, similar to Castor.

[emma1985]

esthetician922 said:

You have non inflamed acne and inflamed acne. I would fight non inflamed with salicylic and inflamed with benzoyl. Not all acne is the same. The two ingredients are not in competition with each other but used for specific types of acne. If the person has a combination of both then use both ingredients. 

Totally agree!! The ONLY topical that worked for my inflammatory acne was Benzoyl Peroxide at high concentrations. Even prescription topicals didn’t work as well (Clindamycin, Tretinoin.) It’s insanely effective!!

[emma1985]

Anecdotally, BP worked much better for me when I had inflammatory hormonal cystic acne. 10% cleared it up pretty well, even though hormonal acne usually has to be treated systemically. I was shocked.

[emma1985]

Perry said:

@emma1985 - How do you feel about the evidence of the effectiveness of Ascorbic Acid? 

I’m no expert but aqueous Ascorbic Acid at 10-20%, formulated at a pH of under 3.5 and with supporting antioxidants (Vitamin E and Ferulic Acid) seems pretty evidence-based to me, based on the research done initially by Dr. Pinnell and his team, and other teams since then.

Anecdotally, I’ve been using Ascorbic Acid daily for many years and I do think it helps with general skin brightening.

Obviously I have no way to test if it’s doing what it’s ultimately supposed to above anything else; attenuating free radical damage.

[emma1985]

I am so so intrigued by the technique suggested by Mark! 

Just curious if arrowroot or corn starch might work?

And also, the mousse commercial product that I saw doesn’t use starch but it does use a high concentration of clay, I wonder if they function similarly in such a product.

[emma1985]

https://www.instagram.com/p/Be00ARIlbpZ/?utm_medium=copy_link

“I find the evidence for Ascorbic Acid derivatives pretty unconvincing. They’re a great way to market a product as Vitamin C, but the evidence that they provide the same benefit as Ascorbic Acid just isn’t there.”

[emma1985]

I agree with ngarayeva. There’s almost 0 research supporting the idea that MAP concerts to Ascorbic Acid on the skin (which it must do to provide benefit.) Check out cosmetic chemist Stephen Ko’s write up on Vitamin C derivatives. Bottom line is they probably don’t work. The only one with SOME promise is Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate (Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate.)

[emma1985]

Rafacasti said:

Is there a specific problem with this? I mean, I’m asking in general, if there’s something that interferes with the measurement or if it’s just the adhesion of the product to the equipment that is complicated to deal with.

Just the inability to properly clean the pH meter. At least my pH meter. I would have dried up emulsion bits all around the diode.

[emma1985]

I’ve found some really accurate pH strips. I’ve tested them against my Apera pH meter many times and they are always accurate. So I use pH strips because there’s no other way to test emulsions other than making a 10% solution which I won’t do because it’s not accurate.

I still use my pH meter for aqueous products though.

[emma1985]

ngarayeva001 said:

https://www.glamourcosmetics.it/gb/makimousse

Thank you! Unfortunately I put in my address and the website said there are no shipping options available to me (US Midwest.)

[emma1985]

helenhelen said:

Have a look at the Makimousse and Salanjul ranges (Sodium Polyacrylate Starch).

Thank you. Unfortunately it does not appear that I have access to it. ????

[emma1985]

ggpetrov said:

Perry said:

@ggpetrov - you could prove it scientifically.  Just make a batch with the extra Allantoin and a batch without the extra. Then test it (on a blinded basis) to see if you can tell a difference.  It would work best if you had 3 samples. 2 of 1 type and 1 of the other type.  Then see if you can pick out the odd sample.

Perry I already did it! My statement isn’t just a claim, but it comes from my experience. Anyway, it doesn’t counts as the clinical researches do, but it’s valuable for me and my clients. Also I have a great impression from the Calendula extract as well as the a-Bisabolol, but it’s based only on my oun experiments.

Thanks for sharing this. I’m pretty fond of Calendula Extract and Bisabolol myself.

[emma1985]

Pattsi, have you looked into Hemi Squalane (C13-15 Alkane?) It is often cited as a more natural alternative to Cyclomethicone, although I’m not sure if it’s technically volatile. It’s really a beautiful emollient though.

[emma1985]

That is so much Allantoin. I use 0.3% in most cases.

[emma1985]

Could not agree more. I love Phenonip!!