Forum Replies Created

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  • Doreen

    Member
    October 6, 2017 at 8:40 am in reply to: Longevity of moisturizing effect

    No offence, but you’re asking tons of questions and you’ve posted a very similar question in two other threads, one of which I already replied to. Maybe it’s better to use only one thread for a certain question to keep it things more clear and orderly.

  • Doreen

    Member
    October 5, 2017 at 9:22 pm in reply to: this drug has the side effect of growing your eyelashes

    @Microformulation
    Now we can scare people with it’s weird side effect of sometimes changing the color of the iris. 

    True! I’ve seen pictures of patients suffering from these side effects. Like they were severely beaten. Discoloration of eyelids/orbital skin. Many people don’t seem to comprehend that most of these changes are irriversible. And these are only aesthetic problems. What about:

    “Periorbital fat atrophy” — a hollowed eye look from deepened upper eyelid sulci and reduced lower eyelid fullness that screams for a cosmetic fix itself — is attributed to Latisse. See you at the gala! 

    Lattise users also risk eye redness and irritation, inflammation called uveitis, macular edema, cataract, reduced intraocular pressure — the action that makes it a glaucoma drug — and vision problems. Contact lenses and the applicator can become contaminated and prostaglandin analogs can reactivate herpes simplex keratitis. 

    The end point of the increase in iridial pigmentation in affected patients is not known.” Not too comforting when the pigment granules that are altered are known to be involved in the routing of optic nerves, protection from oxidative stress and protein degradation! 
    Link

  • Doreen

    Member
    October 5, 2017 at 8:53 pm in reply to: All moisturizers look the same

    All the fuss around most skin products are exaggerated marketing techniques.
    Don’t expect major differences in appearance of an already healthy skin.
    If you’re suffering from a skin disease/problem skin, you can expect bigger differences though. Like using oat(meal) on eczemic laesions or having less problems with acne if you use salicylic acid or tretinoin.

    Some peptides (like Synake®) can have instant Botox®-like effects on wrinkles that can last for a few hours. Vitamin A derivatives (like tretinoin) can have a slight effect on shallow wrinkles over time. Regarding wrinkles, these are the only ones I know that can be visibly noticeable.
    Some brands even promise morphological changes (a more V-shaped chin for example), it’s almost hilarious. Who actually falls for that nonsense I wonder? One can’t expect face lifts from a jar of cream.

    So it all comes to what you expect from a moisturizer. They do moisturize indeed. But isn’t that what they were meant to do in the first place, hence the name? Your issue is wanting a healthy glow? Don’t expect it all from a moisturizer. Use highlighting techniques for example.

  • Doreen

    Member
    October 5, 2017 at 8:09 pm in reply to: this drug has the side effect of growing your eyelashes

    @Microformulation
    Exactly. Like latanoprost (Xalatan®), bimatoprost is just another prostaglandin F analogue. The only difference is the approval for an indication besides just glaucoma.

  • Doreen

    Member
    October 5, 2017 at 12:17 pm in reply to: this drug has the side effect of growing your eyelashes

    Benzalkonium is a common preservative in eyedrops. What about it?

  • Doreen

    Member
    October 3, 2017 at 10:16 am in reply to: this drug has the side effect of growing your eyelashes

    You can’t, it’s a prostaglandine (a hormone), you can’t just simply ‘tweak’ it to get the wanted side effects. Strictly speaking, medicines have no side effects. All the effects are properties of that certain substance. We call it ‘side’ effects because they are not the main goal and undesired in general.

  • Doreen

    Member
    September 29, 2017 at 1:59 am in reply to: Gems and stones in skincare

    @zaidjeber
    Maybe they can convert some aluminum fearing chemophobes ;) 
    I love @Belassi ‘s comments too  :D 

  • Doreen

    Member
    September 28, 2017 at 9:43 pm in reply to: Gems and stones in skincare

    @zaidjeber
    No inert filter, but an inert filler: fairydust.
    If you pulverize sapphire, you just have mainly aluminum oxide.
    Just because it’s expensive blingbling, doesn’t mean it’s useful in skincare.
    Platinum derivatives are being used in chemotherapeutics for example, very toxic. Still people are amazed to hear that.

    @SLLH
    Using fairydust for marketing purposes rather than having a good skin active doesn’t sound ‘innovative’ to me.

  • Doreen

    Member
    September 28, 2017 at 5:42 am in reply to: tingle sensation on lips

    Sometimes menthol and capsaicin are used in lip plumpers.

  • Doreen

    Member
    September 28, 2017 at 5:18 am in reply to: Sterilization

    I would be cautious using strong oxidizers like bleach.
    I use 70% IPA

    You only need sterile untensils if your concoctions would require an ISO certified clean room in a laminar airflow workbench for example, like Mark points out. Unless you prepare parenterals etc there is no need for sterilizing.

  • Doreen

    Member
    September 27, 2017 at 5:13 pm in reply to: How can I know that a particular lab or chemist is good?

    Good to read that you have found a solution!
    Good luck with your product! :-) 

  • Doreen

    Member
    September 27, 2017 at 8:51 am in reply to: Innovative formulas for skincare brand

    You must have at least one skincare formula that you’re proud of, we will ask about it, and also a great network of suppliers that help you source niche ingredients for your creations.

    Isn’t this too much fraud-sensitive? I would personally be suspicious if I would be asked such a thing.

    with 10+ experience in the beauty industry having worked for major international beauty retailers.

    Then you must know the limitations within the contracts?

  • Doreen

    Member
    September 27, 2017 at 8:33 am in reply to: How can I know that a particular lab or chemist is good?

    That’s not a lot of money for formula development.

    That’s exactly what I thought.

  • Doreen

    Member
    September 25, 2017 at 11:02 am in reply to: Precipitation in BHA Toner

    @MarkBroussard
    It’s almost a month ago since I made the last batch and… still no precipitation!
    Obviously it was very important to predisperse the SA in propylene glycol  (instead of dissolving it in water at >70C) because I also left one in the fridge for comparison. Both solutions are still crystal clear. :-) Thank you so much for your help.

    p.s. Luckily I can get my hands on better (less irritable) solvents: butylene glycol and maybe (1,3-)propanediol. What % would you advise if I use both or only butylene glycol (in water)?

  • Doreen

    Member
    September 17, 2017 at 6:52 pm in reply to: Can I preserve a herbal infusion?

    @Derya
    This is a very old thread, big chance the problem is solved already.

  • Doreen

    Member
    September 16, 2017 at 9:33 pm in reply to: Please give me some advices for my facial formula.

    (btw the white residue is (nano)TiO2, best is to disperse it first in a small quantity of oil before adding it to the rest. I find a mortar and pestle (with roughened surface) to be very helpful for dispersing solids.)

  • Doreen

    Member
    September 16, 2017 at 9:11 pm in reply to: Is “ionic water” bulloney?

    @Belassi
    Exactly, even deionized water isn’t without ions strictly speaking.
    I find ‘ionic’ water to be very healthy, love to drink it! ;)

    @SheilaInBoston
    You mentioned a Dr. Josh Axe in another thread. I bet you got the ‘ionic water bulloney’ from there, right? Can’t believe people actually believe the nonsense he’s proclaiming.

  • Doreen

    Member
    September 16, 2017 at 9:02 pm in reply to: Please give me some advices for my facial formula.

    Oh dear, I recognize the picture, I think we’ve all been there. ;) 

    This may be a helpful site for you: http://www.makingskincare.com/emulsifiers/

    Tip: before adding expensive skin actives, try making it without them and keep checking the stability and make small batches first. Totally agree with Belassi, very important to get your emulsifying system right. I think the site I mention might be very helpful.

    Good luck and keep us informed!

  • Doreen

    Member
    September 16, 2017 at 8:44 pm in reply to: Is “ionic water” bulloney?

    @Perry
    Explanation please? I thought for certain ingredients it is absolutely necessary to minimize metal ions present either by using deionized or distilled water + chelating agents, or both, to prevent it creating useless or disruptive bonds (like salicylic acid + iron for example)?

  • Doreen

    Member
    September 16, 2017 at 6:31 am in reply to: Please give me some advices for my facial formula.

    I forgot to mention: N-acetyl glucosamine (in combination with niacinamide) is also recommended as a brightening ingredient.
    I use both in a serum, 2% glucosamine + 5% B3 (+ hyaluronic acid HMW 1%, ferulic acid 0,5%, alpha tocopherol 0,1%, tocopherol acetate 0,1% and bisabolol (natural) 0,4% as other skin actives).
    (The high % of niacinamide also keeps the ferulic acid perfectly solubilized, thanks to @johnb for telling me this)

    Interesting review on bisabolol (also on its skin brightening properties).

  • Doreen

    Member
    September 16, 2017 at 6:05 am in reply to: Please give me some advices for my facial formula.

    Hi Rose!
    About vitamin E, I agree with Bob, also on the milk (not to use it).
    I also use niacinamide in higher %, like 2% to even 5%. It can be challenging for your emulsifying system though.

    About your problems: 
    Like Belassi pointed out, maybe you should change the % of the oil phase, perhaps raise it a bit if it feels too dry on the skin. I also agree on favoring capric/caprylic triglycerides over grapeseed oil.
    You might also want to try adding a silicone. Personally I still use cyclopentasiloxane for the slip/silky feel, but it will be restricted soon due to mostly environmental reasons (D4 also as reprotox).
    Dimethicon and/or petrolatum (vaseline) are great (and cheap) hydrating substances, but maybe they’ll be too occlusive for the oily skin type you mention. Maybe you can use jojoba as your only ‘oil’ and raise the % of it.

    Good luck!

    p.s do you mean PEG 40 or PEG 40 HCO (hydrogenated castor oil)?

  • Doreen

    Member
    September 16, 2017 at 5:18 am in reply to: Wastage

    Always!
    Also be aware of measurements (volume - mass). A tube of 50 ml doesn’t necessarily pack 50 grams. It’s handy to know the relative density of the substances you’re working with.

  • Doreen

    Member
    September 16, 2017 at 4:38 am in reply to: Search for Oils

    Many non volatile oils (like argan oil etc) contain a relatively low % of vitamin E (tocopherols), this vitamin acts as an anti-oxidant under certain circumstances. Usually, oils don’t contain other (lipophilic = fat soluble) vitamins naturally. You can choose to add an anti-oxidant, like alpha tocopherol, yourself (0,01-0,1%, depending on which oil).

    There is a difference between (non volatile) oils and ethereal oils (volatile, also called ‘essential’ oils). The mint oil you mention is from the last group.
    Pure ethereal oils are lipophilic blends of aromatic compounds from plants.

  • Doreen

    Member
    September 16, 2017 at 4:16 am in reply to: Is “ionic water” bulloney?

    Why you should use de-ionized water.

    https://van.physics.illinois.edu/qa/listing.php?id=1743

  • Doreen

    Member
    September 13, 2017 at 6:39 am in reply to: Looking for a penetration retardant

    I wouldn’t use pennyroyal at all. Please don’t be fooled by it being a ‘natural’ insect repellent. The strongest toxins come from mother nature (like for example yew-tree and periwinkle in chemotherapeutics.)
    The skin barrier of your dog is already damaged (wounds) so absorption will be even higher.
    The only way to stop the toxin from being absorbed is by simply not using the toxin. Experimenting with strong toxins is playing with fire, please don’t put your dog’s life at risk.

    This might be helpful: 
    http://www.dogsnaturallymagazine.com/what-you-should-know-about-pennyroyal/
    https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/24649911
    https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/8197716

    I hope you will choose a researched and safe method to help your dog with this, good luck!

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