Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Skin Please give me some advices for my facial formula.

  • Please give me some advices for my facial formula.

    Posted by roserose on September 14, 2017 at 2:13 pm

    Lady and gentlemen. I’m Rose, from Vietnam. I would love to make a cream which moisturize and lighten face skin. Vietnam is a tropical country. The climate is often hot and humid. So, most of us have oily skin and easy - inflamed skin with redness spot. Please give me some advices or show me how to fix if my recipe have any problems. I would love to listen or learn new knowledge which im trying everyday in this major. Here we dont have any places teach about cosmetic making seriously. And all i know is study from the internet , read the english books, and test everything by myself. I tested this recipe , when i applied the cream on my face, i felt it didnt have the smooth touch and little dry on skin and not moisturize enough. I would like to make it more silkly, smooth touch and have a little shiny look ( like Korean skin trend ) , but not greasy. Its too difficult for me. So please help me this case. Thank you so much and look forward to hearing from the all of experts here : )

    This is my recipe:

    Phase A                                              %

    Water                                                69.3
    EDTA                                                  0.2
    Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-11            0.4
    PEG 40                                               1.0
    Glycerin                                             1.0

    Phase B

    Cetyl Alcohol                                     3.0
    ProLipid 141                                      4.0
    Grapeseed oil                                    3.0
    Jojoba oil                                           3.0
    Mango butter                                     1.0
    TiO2                                                  2.0
    Nano TiO2                                         0.2
    Kojic Acid                                          2.0 

    Phase C

    Allantoin                                           0.5
    Honeyquat                                        1.0
    Hydrolyzed Milk                                2.0
    Alpha Arbutin                                   1.0
    Vitamin B3                                        2.0
    Vitamin E                                          1.0

    Phase D 

    Fragrance                                         1
    Phenoxyethanol & ethylhexylglycerin 1.4

    P.S. I added TiO2 for the white effect which most of female here want to have in the face cream. 

    Thanks for your reading. 

    My email is : chamomileplumeria@gmail.com. Please feel free to contact me for advices or comments . By the way, im sorry for the inconvenience to you beacause im not fluent in English. 
    Best wishes. 

    roserose replied 6 years, 9 months ago 7 Members · 17 Replies
  • 17 Replies
  • belassi

    September 14, 2017 at 3:44 pm

    With 15% lipids you will get a thicker cream. If you want the cream to absorb faster I suggest reducing the amount of lipids to say, 10% and try it. I would not use grapeseed oil due to its short shelf life. Secondly you can try replacing one or more of the lipids with a lighter type. For instance, you could replace the grapeseed oil with Myritol 318 (capric/caprylic triglycerides). Also try changing the cetyl alcohol to cetearyl alcohol.

  • Bobzchemist

    September 14, 2017 at 4:19 pm

    Also take the milk out and reduce the vitamin levels by a factor of 10, at least.

  • roserose

    September 14, 2017 at 4:57 pm

    Thank you so much, Mr.Belassi.
    Thank you so much, Mr. Bobzchemist.

    I’m so excited and i will purchase those ingredients to try it soon 🙂

    May i ask this problem: at night, i applied the cream on face, after about 15 seconds, i felt the cream so dry on skin and also dry touching. In the next morning, my skin felt pretty dry, like it didnt moisturize enough. I would like to fix this problem , i look forward a smooth and silky after apply cream. Please tell me what can i fix it ?? Thanks in advanced :smiley:

  • Doreen

    September 16, 2017 at 6:05 am

    Hi Rose!
    About vitamin E, I agree with Bob, also on the milk (not to use it).
    I also use niacinamide in higher %, like 2% to even 5%. It can be challenging for your emulsifying system though.

    About your problems: 
    Like Belassi pointed out, maybe you should change the % of the oil phase, perhaps raise it a bit if it feels too dry on the skin. I also agree on favoring capric/caprylic triglycerides over grapeseed oil.
    You might also want to try adding a silicone. Personally I still use cyclopentasiloxane for the slip/silky feel, but it will be restricted soon due to mostly environmental reasons (D4 also as reprotox).
    Dimethicon and/or petrolatum (vaseline) are great (and cheap) hydrating substances, but maybe they’ll be too occlusive for the oily skin type you mention. Maybe you can use jojoba as your only ‘oil’ and raise the % of it.

    Good luck!

    p.s do you mean PEG 40 or PEG 40 HCO (hydrogenated castor oil)?

  • Doreen

    September 16, 2017 at 6:31 am

    I forgot to mention: N-acetyl glucosamine (in combination with niacinamide) is also recommended as a brightening ingredient.
    I use both in a serum, 2% glucosamine + 5% B3 (+ hyaluronic acid HMW 1%, ferulic acid 0,5%, alpha tocopherol 0,1%, tocopherol acetate 0,1% and bisabolol (natural) 0,4% as other skin actives).
    (The high % of niacinamide also keeps the ferulic acid perfectly solubilized, thanks to @johnb for telling me this)

    Interesting review on bisabolol (also on its skin brightening properties).

  • roserose

    September 16, 2017 at 1:58 pm

    Thank you so much, Doreen81.

    Yes, i meant 
    PEG 40 HCO (hydrogenated castor oil).

    I have read about the N-acetyl Glucosamine ( NAG ) for brightening effect before but its not easy for me to purchase here. However, i will try ordering it from US to experience this ingredient.

    I ( me and some people have oily skin ) have tested some products conatains silicon (  like Dimethicone ) , and it made clogged pores :(  , therefore, im so afraid of silicon or vaseline for facial products.

    About   bisabolol, may i change to chamomile extract , because here i cant find out  bisabolol , hehe. 

    P.s. May i add Hemisqualance into oil phase for moisturizer more ??

  • roserose

    September 16, 2017 at 5:11 pm

    Any chemistry expert please help me, it couldn’t be emulsified, and turned very lumpy. I heated Phase A and Phase B till 70 Celcius and mix like common way. I tried like this:

    Phase  A                                                     %

    Water                                                      73.0
    EDTA                                                         0.2
    Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-11                   0.4
    Propanediol 1,3                                         1.0

    Phase B

    Cetearyl Alcohol                                        2.0
    ProLipid141                                              3.0
    Triglyceride (Caprylic/capric triglyceride)  3.0
    Kokum butter                                           1.0

    Jojoba oil                                                  1.0
    Hemisqualane                                           1.0
    TiO2                                                         1.5
    Nano TiO2                                                0.1
    Kojic Acid Dipalmitate                              2.0

    I tried making the base of cream before adding the active ingredients, and it turned like photo :  

  • belassi

    September 16, 2017 at 5:21 pm

    Your formula lacks emulsifiers. What has happened is that the original formula is what we call a “carbomer cream”. The suspending agent, the carbomer, acts as a stabiliser to keep the formula from separating.
    1. Design the formula properly with emulsifiers. Cetearyl alcohol is not an effective emulsifier on its own. You have 9% lipids in the above formula, I would try adding 2% glyceryl monostearate and 2% PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, see if that is sufficient, adjust accordingly.
    2. Increase the cross-linked polymer - I’m not familiar with that one, does it need neutralisation? And also include a secondary stabiliser, EG xanthan gum at 0.2%.
    3. Use both of the above approaches.
     . . . It is only by experimentation and reading why formulae work, that you’ll get to the desired level of experience. When you do, you will be able to design creams that just work straight off without needing major adjustment.

  • Doreen

    September 16, 2017 at 9:02 pm

    Oh dear, I recognize the picture, I think we’ve all been there. ;) 

    This may be a helpful site for you: http://www.makingskincare.com/emulsifiers/

    Tip: before adding expensive skin actives, try making it without them and keep checking the stability and make small batches first. Totally agree with Belassi, very important to get your emulsifying system right. I think the site I mention might be very helpful.

    Good luck and keep us informed!

  • Doreen

    September 16, 2017 at 9:33 pm

    (btw the white residue is (nano)TiO2, best is to disperse it first in a small quantity of oil before adding it to the rest. I find a mortar and pestle (with roughened surface) to be very helpful for dispersing solids.)

  • Microformulation

    September 16, 2017 at 11:18 pm

    What is the function of the TiO2? If it is for spf there are numerous issues, but most importantly you may not have the proper mixing equipment to adequately disperse the material.


    September 17, 2017 at 11:33 pm

    I would replace Clariant crosspolymer witth Ultrez 10 at 1 percent and add to water phase:neutralize with 1 percent TEA after forming emulsion.Adding two percent GMS to oil phase as Belassi said will help stabilize cream.

  • SheilaInBoston

    September 18, 2017 at 2:27 am

    Sidenote… I just read that Rose Hip Oil goes rancid quickly.  Do you advise against it?  Thank you.

  • roserose

    September 19, 2017 at 4:11 pm

    Dear Mr. Belassi, 

    Many thanks for your response. Well, the “carbomer cream” with the original formula is stable ( i guess so 🙂 ), but it looks pretty thick and dry very very fast on the skin, so i tried to reduce the amout of Lipids , and I didn’t use PEG 40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil. And I think it’s my mistake in emulsifier.

    About Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-11, atually, I use it beacause it is easy for me to use , no need to neutralize. And in my opinion, it doesnt have the sticky skin feel like Xanthan Gum. 

    Then, I tried adding PEG 40 again and it worked :) 

    And I will try using  2% glyceryl monostearate and 2% PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate for more experiment. 

    Anyway, thank you so much for your help. 


  • roserose

    September 19, 2017 at 4:34 pm

    Dear Doreen81,
    Dear Microformulation

    I know you guys will be surprise because of what you will be read now. In Asian, most of the female desire to have a bright skin ( here we call ” white skin” ) . So, most of face or body cream , lotion contain TiO2 to make the white colour on their skin. But i really dont like it , I love the tanning skin.

     I used to disperse Propylen Glycol with TiO2 and add to the phase after emulsification. But it turned small lumpy, it didnt smooth. And I find out that add the TiO2 to Oil Phase make it smooth, no more lumpy .

    I dont intend to make anything have SPF by myself, I know we shouldn’t do that at home , hehe. 

  • roserose

    September 19, 2017 at 4:45 pm

    I cant find 
     Ultrez 10 here, but I will try it oneday. Thanks for your response ! 

  • roserose

    September 19, 2017 at 5:33 pm

    Dear SheilaInBoston ,
    Yes, I got it. I know the Rosehip oil should be use raw with no heat 🙂
    Thanks for your concern! 

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