[Doreen]

@Perry
I’ve overestimated them by thinking they can use >3 syllable words. :joy:
No wonder this group usually vilifies vaccines too!

[Doreen]

Some say 1,2 propanediol/PG is (slightly?) more irritating than 1,3 propanediol, because of the lower density/MM.
I have used both as the main solvent in my liquid 2% salicylic acid exfoliant, but I couldn’t tell a difference. 

[Doreen]

You’re welcome!

[Doreen]

Perhaps you can find useful information in this thread:

https://chemistscorner.com/cosmeticsciencetalk/discussion/2184/are-preservatives-needed-for-dry-clays-and-fruit-powders

I think diazolidinyl urea needs to be in a dissolved state as it’s recommended to be put in the water phase (if <50C) or cool down phase of a formulation.

[Doreen]

Belassi said:

is there a vanilla color stabilizer for surfactants products? 
- what do you mean by that?

I think what is meant that vanilla (in a fragrance blend) can affect the colour, mostly brownish and how to avoid this?

[Doreen]

@ngarayeva001
Usually it’s the more difficult to pronounce ‘chemicals’ that make people cringe, even if it’s a replacement for something ‘chemical’ that was made for chemophobics like them in the first place! (e.g. dipentaerythrityl hexa C5-9 acid esters (Lexfeel 350) for dimethicon 350 cSt.)
(The ‘if you can’t pronounce it, don’t use it”, or the ‘if you can’t eat it, don’t smear it’ kind of people) 

[Doreen]

I also combine Euxyl PE9010 with caprylyl glycol for lowering of the water activity. As chelating agent disodium EDTA (and sodium phytate in cold process emulsions).
How much caprylyl glycol do you use, @Lisa18? I use it at 0.3% mostly and so far no problems with viscosity drops.

[Doreen]

@Belassi
Ok, thanks! Right after you shared that interaction back then on here, I immediately wrote it down in my notes, that’s how I remembered!

[Doreen]

DesertInBloomLab said:

No, it is less likely to happen if you don’t use a homogenizer after adding the HA, but simply stir or mix

Ok, only low shear, thanks! :+1:

[Doreen]

I hope it works for your formulation, good luck! :+1:

[Doreen]

@EVchem
Ok, thanks a lot for your answer!

[Doreen]

@Belassi
Do NOT use acidic preservatives with the salt

You only mean dehydroacetic acid, right? Or others as well?

The potassium salt can handle acidic formulations very well. Paula’s Choice puts it in several liquid salicylic acid exfoliants (pH around 3.4). I always put it in my liquid 2% salicylic acid exfoliant at pH 3.7 - 3.9 and have experienced no interactions. The liquid remains crystal clear for half a year at least.

[Doreen]

MarkBroussard said:

If you are using a higher molecular weight HA in the heated water phase before forming the emulsion, the homogenizer may also “shread” the HA.

So this is less likely to happen in the cooling down phase?
How about other (synthetic) polymers with high molecular weight, like carbomers etc? 

[Doreen]

@khoikhoa said:
thanks so much i will try

What I actually meant to say was: if you use Tocomix L50-IP, you’re already using a good tocopherol blend, as Jan Dekker only has tocopherol blends with mainly gamma and delta tocopherols (and not alpha).
Do you use it at recommended levels?

The Phytrox LTR15-IP however is said to have stronger anti-oxidant activity, as the ascorbyl palmitate and rosemary should work synergystically.

[Doreen]

@Jdawgswife76
The smell is there in any formula, depending on %.
I found it hard to mask with fragrance in the recommended %.
You could use it as claims ingredient at 0.1%, or so?

[Doreen]

I have used licorice extract in the past.
Lately, I only use the water soluble and colourless salt (dipotassium glycyrrhizinate) and the oil soluble ester (stearyl glycyrrhetinate), also colourless.

[Doreen]

@shaujaat
You’re joking I hope?
Just because it comes from nature doesn’t mean it can’t be toxic!
Several chemotherapeutics find their origin in nature (paclitaxel, docetaxel, cabazitaxel -> Yew tree, vincristine, vinblastine -> Periwinkle (Catharanthus roseus), to name a few).

Catharanthus roseus: Quite innocent looking, right?

[Doreen]

khoikhoa said:

chemicalmatt i am using 

Tocomix L50-IP (Jan Dekker) that its inci name Tocopherol, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil

Jan Dekker only uses mixed tocopherols (high in gamma and delta tocopherols).
I use their Phytrox LTR15-IP, with ascorbyl palmitate and rosemary included.

[Doreen]

And I thought isothiazolinones were of the cheaper kind. That is pricey!

[Doreen]

Aloe too isn’t edible. I still don’t understand people using Aloe ‘supplements’ for a ‘detox’. 
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/26986231

[Doreen]

@jeremien
Only a very small amount.

@Dirtnap1
Have you tried Pemulen EZ-4U? I don’t know if it can handle more electrolytes, but it can emulsify the highest levels of oil (up to 50%).

[Doreen]

To me a cosmetic chemist is someone who has graduated chemistry/physics on an academic level.

I totally agree with @Sibech

I am of the conviction that Cosmetic Chemist implies an academic background in chemistry (or a related field) and thus an expectation of fundamental expertise and should only be used with the scientific background, simply to avoid confusion.

[Doreen]

Dr Catherine Pratt said:

Doreen, I just had a smell and I cannot smell anything???

I smell a slight rose-like floral scent. There are some members here (older posts in this thread) who absolutely dislike the smell and describe it otherwise.

Microformulation said:

Honestly, at the levels used, Euxyl PE9010 has little to no influence on the final fragrance in the finished product. Ensuring that a chelant is used and being aware that it can destabilize an emulsion are the biggest concerns.

I think so too. Even in a fragrance free formula with 1% Euxyl PE9010.

[Doreen]

How about adding some allantoin as soother? It’s also said to stimulate (superficial) wound healing. I’ve recently made an anhydrous balm with 1% allantoin, apparently allantoin doesn’t need to be in a dissolved state per se, disperse it properly (which wasn’t a problem at all!). I preserved it with 0.1 propyl paraben to be on the safe side. I’ve also used cyclo D5 in it btw.

To be honest I have no idea what’s best for a dog’s skin. I know the transdermal barrier of a dog is more permeable than in humans, so I would totally get it if their skins are more sensitive and would react more strongly on isothiazolinones.

[Doreen]

Lady_B said:

Yep, and tryglycerides to ensure there is enough fatty content for surfactants to work. 

??

Lady_B said:
I didn’t validate the quality of the article, tbh. Just searched for a quick reference to give you more details.

Why did you share it, if you don’t even know if it’s BS?
What use is there to share something you maybe wouldn’t even agree with if you’d read it properly?