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Hi @Faustin. 
Sepimax Zen is suitable for low pH. You can contact Ms Aswinda in Megasetia. 

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Thankyou @ketchito, @Belassi, @express2025 for advices
I’ll make several trials without glycerin and peg-40. 

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What dye type suits ? 

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Dear all, 

Thank you for all the opinions. As an update, I have succeed in eliminating the grime, by reducing xanthan gum and replace dimethicone with alkane. Thanks @gld010  @jeromeinthehouse. So I had found suitable formula for my cream BASE. I hope with this cream base I can get some products by just adding up other active ingredients (powder/liquid) in it.

But when I add arbutin powder 5% and tranexamic acid powder 3%, the grime appeared again. I also tried to solubilize the powder in water, but the grime still appeared. Why this happened ? Did I missed something? Thank you all

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I use Silicon Oil (Dimethicone) 100 cps

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I had made several trials with xanthan gum 1% and there were no ‘grime’ or ‘peeliing off’ . It only occurs if silicon oil exist. I have choices to eliminate xanthan gum or silicon oil and still working on. I just wondering any theory about this ‘grime’.
I prefer use xanthan gum so maybe you have alternative material to replace silicon oil ? 

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It’s because oxidation of kojic acid. You can use additional antioxidants. Try sodium hydrogen sulphites

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Same experience with @em88 . I prefer use Carbopol Aqua SF-1.

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Maybe it has something to do with your filling machine. What type of machine? Maybe you can slower the filling speed/ pressure

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How about the viscosity?

Maybe you can try a knockout with Glycerin, lowering it or substitute with Propylen glycol. For some formulations I feel inconvenient with Glycerin.

Or lowering the Olive oil. 

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I prefer Aqua SF-1, easy in handling.
I’ve tried xanthan gum, but in a month it separated, based on my formula.

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Thankyou @DAS

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Thankyou @Perry, @”DRBOB@VERDIENT.BIZ”
 , and @David.

I realize that my question is too vague. Also I’m not looking for specific materials. I just wondering if there are books/references/links that explain about chemical/ physical interaction for any materials.

Trial and Error is the most important. I just want to find the scientific explanation of some interactions I’ve met. 

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Thank you Belassi, Ashish, and Bill.. I’ll try another antioxidant..

@ ashish: I don’t familiar with TBQ.. what’s that?

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Another formula is Lightening Cream:

Aqua

Propylene glycol 2

Glycerin 1

Triethanolamine 0.5

Xanthan gum 0.5

Phenoxyethanol 0.5

Silicon oil 5

Glyceryl monostearate 2

Cetearyl alcohol 1

Stearic acid 0.5

Sodium ascorbyl phosphate 5

Niacinamide 1

Kojic dipalmitate 1

Retinol complex 0.5

Alpha Lipoic acid 1

Tocopheryl acetate 0.5

Sodium hydrogern sulfite 0.5

Perfume 0.5

In this formula, at room temperature, the cream become brown in 5 months. Then I add SHS to 1% and reduce Kojic dipalmitate to 0.1%. For 1 year the cream is still stable.

What happen’s actually? Is it oxidation?

And now I have to find substitute for SHS. Any suggest? 

Thanks in adavance

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For example is this skin lightening lotion:

Aqua 80.4

Arbutin 5

Sodium ascorbyl phosphate 5

Niacinamide 1

Sodium hydrogen sulfite (SHS) 0.5

Xanthan gum 0.1

Collagen 0.1

Aloe 0.1

Hyaluronate 0.1

Propylen glycol 2

Glycerine 0.5

Phenoxyethanol 0.5

If I don’t use SHS, in 6 months the lotion become darkened/browning. If I use SHS, it keeps the lotion stable for 2 years.

Please any advice

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Hello everyone,

I am Harry from Indonesia.. Wow, it,s a great pleasure finding this helpful community. Thank you for allowing me joining the forum. I am a cosmetic chemist for about 2 years and I want to learn more about cosmetic formulating. I look forward to learning as much as possible and sharing my experiences in this forum.