[creatorhealer2020]

Ya know I started this in 2019 and all I will say is that I am flaberghasted by what I dont see on the market.  I also know a particular brand that has a INCI list that is completely and intentionally inaccurate. So yes, I do believe most of us have our secrets.

[creatorhealer2020]

crisbaysauli said:

hi. would you like to share the other ingredients used in your formula?

Hi there.  I reached out to the chemist for the company and he confirmed that the ingredient is known to cause loss of viscosity.

[creatorhealer2020]

ketchito said:

@creatorhealer2020 It depends on the type of emulsion you’re trying to make: if it’s an W/O emulsion, you’d need to increase the amount of Glyceryl stearate (emulsifier) and waxes, so you increase stabilty by increasing viscosity, If on the other hand, you want to create an O/W emulsion, then as @Belassi  mentioned, you’d need to add a high HLB emulsifier like Polysorbate-20. 

Okay thank you!  I think I will try increasing the Glyceryl Stearate.

[creatorhealer2020]

Belassi said:

There is 12.7g lipids and your emulsifier system is 4% glyceryl stearate and 1% stearyl alcohol. Not surprising it separated. Try adding say 2.5% of a high HLB emulsifier such as Polysorbate 20.

Here is the original ingredient list from the product I am trying to duplicate.  Can you tell me how they were able to get a thick emulsion with this formula?  It does move at all but it is creamy and light and very nice.

Water

Capric/Caprylic Triglycerides

Glycerin

Cetyl Alcohol

Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter

Fragrance (Essential Oil Blends)

Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil

Stearyl Alcohol

Maltodextrin/VP
Copolymer

Glyceryl Stearate

Glyceryl Caprylate

Mangifera Indica
(Mango) Seed Butter

Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil

Nigella Sativa Seed
Oil

Melia Azadirachta Seed Oil

Hibiscus Rosa-Sinensis Flower Extract

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice

Linum Usitatissimum (Linseed) Seed Oil

Agave Tequilana Leaf Extract

Cacao (Cocoa) Seed Butter

Shea Butter
Ethyl Esters

Tocopheryl Acetate

Tricholoma Matsutake Extract

Hydrolyzed Keratin

Theobroma Grandiflorum Seed Butter

Glyceryl
Undecylenate

[creatorhealer2020]

Belassi said:

There is 12.7g lipids and your emulsifier system is 4% glyceryl stearate and 1% stearyl alcohol. Not surprising it separated. Try adding say 2.5% of a high HLB emulsifier such as Polysorbate 20.

I figured that might be the issue. I’ll add the polysorbate 20 and get back to you. Thanks!

[creatorhealer2020]

You need to make sure the pH of your waters phase is bout 4.8 - 5.0 before you add the stearamidopropyl dimethylamine.  Also BTMS 25 has cetearyl alcohol attached so it should be a good thickener.  Try increasing that if you want a less runny emulsion.  These ingredients do not replace silicones, but there are more natural alternatives like LexFeel N Series by Inolex.  Dont be afraid of silicones.  They are processed from sand fyi if that makes you feel better about them.  I had to educate myself on this and concluded that I no longer take issue with silicones as long as they are not irritants or toxic.

[creatorhealer2020]

I would suspect that too much baking soda was used and the pH was too high to maintain stability in your formula.  I’m new to this, but if it were me I would add more emulsifier to see if I could fix it and then test the pH again.

[creatorhealer2020]

EVchem said:

You’re looking for small quantity?
https://www.formulatorsampleshop.com/Glyceryl-Caprylate-p/fssm19000.htm

Wow!  This has to be new to their site.   I searched their site and emailed them just 2 weeks ago looking for this.  Thank you!!!

[creatorhealer2020]

JennyB said:

Hello

I am quite new to formulating and have made few deep conditioners however they do not have the slip that I want for my hair ( I have African textured hair). I was wondering if anyone could provide some advice on how to increase the Slip in my conditioner formulation below:

Water- 79.5 %
Cetaryl Alcohol- 4%

BTMS- 3%

STEARAMIDOPROPYL DIMETHYLAMINE -3%

Avocado Oil- 3%

Broccoli Seed -3%
D-pathanol- 1.5%

Hydrolysed Wheat - 2%

Preservative (PCG)- 1%

Hello JennyB,

I would suggest that if you like your formula’s ingredients then increase the BTMS50 and decrease the water by that same increase percentage.  I plan to use no less than 8% BTMS50 in my formula and I may test a batch with 10 to 12% BTMS 50.  Hope it goes well for you!