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  • Duplicating A Formula Assistance Please

    Posted by creatorhealer2020 on October 11, 2020 at 8:48 pm
    Hello all!  I attempted to duplicate one of the most beautiful and pleasant hair leave in products I’ve ever tried.  I failed lol.  I had separation, but could tell from the top layer I was headed in the right direction.  Is fixing this as simple as reducing the amount of oils or adding more glyceryl stearate, cetearyl, cetyl, and/or stearyl alcohol to save this small batch?  How can I obtain a proper emulsion with just these ingredients?  The brand has no other emulsifiers listed in their ingredients. See ingredients and my formula below:
    Water                                                           71.75%
    Capric/Caprylic Triglycerides                       6%    
    Glycerin                                                       4%
    Glyceryl Stearate                                          4%
    Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter             4%
    Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil       1%
    Stearyl Alcohol                                             1%
    Maltodextrin/VP
    Copolymer                         1%
    Cetyl Alcohol                                               1%
    Natural Fragrance                                        .75%
    Glyceryl Caprylate                                        .5%
    Mangifera Indica
    (Mango) Seed Butter          .5%
    Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil                       .5%
    Cacao (Cocoa) Seed Butter                           .5%
    Oat Hydrolized Extract                                 .25%
    Neem Oil                                                     .20
    Fig Extract                                                   .10%
    Lexguard Natural MB Preservative                1.5%
    creatorhealer2020 replied 3 years, 7 months ago 3 Members · 5 Replies
  • 5 Replies
  • belassi

    Member
    October 11, 2020 at 10:16 pm

    There is 12.7g lipids and your emulsifier system is 4% glyceryl stearate and 1% stearyl alcohol. Not surprising it separated. Try adding say 2.5% of a high HLB emulsifier such as Polysorbate 20.

  • creatorhealer2020

    Member
    October 11, 2020 at 11:24 pm

    Belassi said:

    There is 12.7g lipids and your emulsifier system is 4% glyceryl stearate and 1% stearyl alcohol. Not surprising it separated. Try adding say 2.5% of a high HLB emulsifier such as Polysorbate 20.

    I figured that might be the issue. I’ll add the polysorbate 20 and get back to you. Thanks!

  • creatorhealer2020

    Member
    October 12, 2020 at 4:17 am

    Belassi said:

    There is 12.7g lipids and your emulsifier system is 4% glyceryl stearate and 1% stearyl alcohol. Not surprising it separated. Try adding say 2.5% of a high HLB emulsifier such as Polysorbate 20.

    Here is the original ingredient list from the product I am trying to duplicate.  Can you tell me how they were able to get a thick emulsion with this formula?  It does move at all but it is creamy and light and very nice.
    Water
    Capric/Caprylic Triglycerides
    Glycerin
    Cetyl Alcohol
    Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter
    Fragrance (Essential Oil Blends)
    Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil
    Stearyl Alcohol
    Maltodextrin/VP
    Copolymer
    Glyceryl Stearate
    Glyceryl Caprylate
    Mangifera Indica
    (Mango) Seed Butter
    Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil
    Nigella Sativa Seed
    Oil
    Melia Azadirachta Seed Oil
    Hibiscus Rosa-Sinensis Flower Extract
    Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
    Linum Usitatissimum (Linseed) Seed Oil
    Agave Tequilana Leaf Extract
    Cacao (Cocoa) Seed Butter
    Shea Butter
    Ethyl Esters
    Tocopheryl Acetate
    Tricholoma Matsutake Extract
    Hydrolyzed Keratin
    Theobroma Grandiflorum Seed Butter
    Glyceryl
    Undecylenate

  • ketchito

    Member
    October 12, 2020 at 1:40 pm

    @creatorhealer2020 It depends on the type of emulsion you’re trying to make: if it’s an W/O emulsion, you’d need to increase the amount of Glyceryl stearate (emulsifier) and waxes, so you increase stabilty by increasing viscosity, If on the other hand, you want to create an O/W emulsion, then as @Belassi  mentioned, you’d need to add a high HLB emulsifier like Polysorbate-20. 

  • creatorhealer2020

    Member
    October 13, 2020 at 4:12 am

    ketchito said:

    @creatorhealer2020 It depends on the type of emulsion you’re trying to make: if it’s an W/O emulsion, you’d need to increase the amount of Glyceryl stearate (emulsifier) and waxes, so you increase stabilty by increasing viscosity, If on the other hand, you want to create an O/W emulsion, then as @Belassi  mentioned, you’d need to add a high HLB emulsifier like Polysorbate-20. 

    Okay thank you!  I think I will try increasing the Glyceryl Stearate.

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