[chemicalooze]

Oh it appears the picture didn’t load but this should be it

• This reply was modified 1 year, 2 months ago by  chemicalooze.

[chemicalooze]

I would go with the second one simply because it has both menthol and capsaicin, though the quality will depend on the percentage of actives and formulation technology itself.

As for which ingredients are unnecessary, any extract is usually just there for the marketing story and not used at a significant percentage. Same with the specific oils, they’re pretty much interchangeable (though I could be wrong). In the second formula, the d-limonene and linalool are just there as fragrance. Probably unnecessary and possibly irritating. Everything else is preservative, neutralizer, chelator, texture/viscosity enhancing, solubilizers, etc. So depending on how you want your cream to feel, smell, and look, you would have to decide what is necessary and not

[chemicalooze]

MarkBroussard said:

@chemicalooze:

As noted, the Decyl Glucoside at 11% does not make any sense in this formula, nor does “Lauryl Alkyl”.  If you need to leave these in the formula, take them both down to 0.1%.  What was the logic of putting high levels of surfactant in an SPF cream?

But, I’ll also note Iron Oxides at 5.2%?

Also, what preservative are you using and what UV filters?  One of the preservative components may be affecting your viscoisty/stability if it contains capryly glycol, for instance.

The APG was meant to help emulsify everything and I guess I wasn’t seeing it as harmful in that percentage. The iron oxides are in that percent to match the client supplied product’s color. 

The preservative system is Caprylyl Glycol, glyceryl laurate, and glyceryl undecylenate. Could you elaborate on how it would be affecting my parameters/how to address the issue? 

The UV filters are titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, and octocrylene. 

[chemicalooze]

ketchito said:

I agree with the comments above. It might be the 11% of Decyl glucoside what’s causing the issue. This is a surfactant mostly used in cleansers. 

Also, what’s Lauryl alkyl??

That was a typo and it should say lauryl alkane. The decyl glucoside is meant to emulsify the formula. When I’ve tried making the formula with a lower percent of the APG, it seems to break after the oil phase. Do you have any suggestions on what to make higher? 

[chemicalooze]

Paprik said:

Are the UV filters solid? If so, I don’t think you have enough lipid. 
Also do not understand much 11% Decyl glucoside. 

Ten percent is made up of solid titanium dioxide and zinc oxide then there’s also octocrylene 

[chemicalooze]

Abdullah said:

What is the pH? 
Do you you know what each ingredient is doing in your formula? 
For example what is 11% decyl glucoside doing there?

pH needs to be 6-7. The decyl glucoside is being used as an emulsifier.

[chemicalooze]

I agree, it would be a giant hassle for the customer and would most likely not be worth it. It would also be a costly business venture as you would need multiple roll mills and homogenizers. Presumably you would also need some kind of colorimeter/software/instrument the customer could use to get an idea of the combination of pigments they would need to mix to get the color they desire (their shade of foundation, a certain eyeshadow color, etc.) It seems like a logistical nightmare, although it is a very intriguing concept that would probably do well with Gen Z consumers as they are big on DIY