chemicalmatt
Forum Replies Created
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You already solved most of the problem: DEL soda ash and salt, then stick with citric acid only. You should not need EDTA with all that citric acid, if anything a little phosphoric acid would help much more. Otherwise why not up the Surf 900 anti-redeposition product? At only 1.0% you are undermining the effort just a bit.
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I suggest perusing the surplus chemicals listing at Universal Preserv a Chem [www.upichem.com] and see what you can find.
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I’ll take a “crack” at this dilemma @ina_ivat_ko Your table adds up to 33% if my addition is correct. If the remaining components are mainly pigments as you suggest, that is a LOT OF PIGMENT having very little carrier-dispersant involved in your grind; plus I do not see any free surfactant employed to aid in that task. Expect cracking on application.
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@Margaret the answer is yes, depending on the surfactant blend used you would end up with a water-thin lotion having low foaming and reduced cleansing power. This may not be stable for very long depending on how much oil you added. Same outcome (not the thinning part) holds true for solid soaps. Too much oil added to a syndet bar will compromise foaming and cleansing.
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@BUNSEN87 When you ask for “equal properties” that needs broader interpretation. If sensory haptics is the goal then some of those esters will do. But for polarity, an important property if you are to use in emulsions and solvent systems, the polyisobutene mentioned by @fareloz is the better choice. Mineral oil is about as non-polar as it gets.
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@BathroomChemist no worries, MCT is stable to well over 100C.
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Hard to help without knowing the other components: the oil load and relative polarities involved, water activity, salts, glycols. I will say the two low HLB emulsifiers you cite are not related to one another. One is a PEFA the other a PEGylated fatty ester. If I read correctly you are using 0.25% DPHS? If so that is not nearly adequate. I would use more of that and less of the PEFA starting with a 2:1 ratio.
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Have you tried acrylic copolymers yet? Try Synthalen W600 at 5.0% or so. That works well with the glutamates, glycinates, other amino acid anionics.
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@Samirah you are correct, isoamyl laurate is virtually same as the cocoate ester. All the suggestions given here are on point. However, I’ll suggest a much heavier lipid (ester or oil) for this formula to get the result you are looking for. Ketchito mentioned mineral oil - a good idea especially for multicultural curly hair. Castor oil also comes to mind as does shea butter, and builder waxes along with the esters.
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@Pavalosk this brand is selling a bogus INCI label to the buying public. Anyone who states “vegetable derived” glycerin is either a moron or a scoundrel - my opinion only - and should be forced to devour their “vegetable derived” product while I watch. If you perceived a silky sensorial effect using it, they likely have a lot more isoamyl cocoate and coco caprylate caprate [they miscue this as “hydrogenated coco-glycerides”] than they claim and much less of everything else. Those two esters grant a light D5-similar sensation when used at concentration. There is evidence of morons at work there also: why place a preservative into an anhydrous product, I ask?
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Yes,there is…or perhaps I should say there are (many). Add ceresine wax at 1.0% , that will firm this up enough to stop the cracking. To aid in lubricity and stop the sticking: without knowing your “oils” identity I’d add an alkanolamide or polyglyceryl ester and either should do the trick there.
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@Margaret You are correct in that “it depends” assumption. You can be relatively confident the true concentration is somewhere between the lower and middle of the stated range. Since nobody actually checks or verifies the values given, drafting SDS lends itself a lot of literary freedom. In the early days of drafting composition statements for export docs I used to place ranges very close to truth, then I quickly realized there is zero analytical work being done over in the E.U. to determine accuracy of my statement; not enough chemists on this planet to carry that out. A classic “no duh!” moment. Now I put down nearly any number that comes to mind as long as they add up to 100.
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@OB_Ben Those crystals must be sodium chloride since it has a lower saturation point in water than has magnesium sulfate heptahydrate. Neither solvate in ethanol well so reduce the NaCl and ethanol and keep this spray out of your eyes. Consider also adding a smidge of propylene glycol to this. Retards the flash point and keeps the plumbing free in that dipstick.
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For the record, glyceryl monostearate S.E. is an o/w emulsifier whereas GMS plain is not. So much for that. I’ll take a guess and accuse xanthan gum-glycerin for the sticky agency, unless the dimethicone used was a MW greater than 10,000 CST.
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@Graillotion Aloha right back at you brother. Virtually all shelf 3.0% peroxides have stabilizers and likely these are simply chelants. I do not know where you could capture unadulterated H2O2. These days you cannot even commercially purchase more than 35% without a special permit in the USA (Shaghayegh must be elsewhere) ever since Homeland Security got involved.
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@WADYA I agree, nothing “soapy” about this formula. This is eyelash setting gel plain & simple. DELETE the sorbitol and problem nearly solved. Be sure to have enough propylene glycol in there to plasticize the PVP or this could flake off into someone’s eyes. As for drying time I suspect they have SDA in there but don’t list it. Can you smell ethanol? If not then they put a LOT of sorbitol and carbomer in there to displace water and make a sticky mess.
Also make sure your product liability insurance is paid up before market launch.
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@farah.k There are several corrections to be made here. One is that much PVP is destabilizing and retarding this product’s gelation. Next thing is all that polyol is reducing the gelling temperature. Reduce by 50 - 75% all the above and see what happens.
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No difference
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There are so many anomalies here I don’t know where to start. (Galactomyces Filtrate? Say wha’??) Just briefly, you need a salt to stabilize, you need to increase the total water content and you need to switch your ethoxylated silane emulsifier to a more alkyl modified one -and use less of it - since you have organic lipids involved. Go in peace and do no harm.
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This all depends on the solid-state UV absorbers you are using. All have different solubilities and you will need to experiment. I’ll add that some are soluble in their liquid state partners. I.e. avobenzone is soluble in octicrylene and homosalate.
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Add PEG-150 Distearate at 65C after your base surfactants are dispersed completely. Then always add that pearlizer during the cool-down phase. If it were me, I’d just add plain EGDS at same time/temp as the PEG-150 and forego the Texapon mix.
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You are compounding 10 Volume and 20 Volume developers for oxidative hair dyes here, right? Been here and done that and as @PhilGeis alludes that 50% peroxide is nasty to work with. The suppliers do not mention stabilizers they are using, just as they don’t for hypochlorite technical grades. Don’t ask me why - trade secrets maybe? Since you are simply diluting stabilizers are not the issue but your water and mixing gear certainly are. Deionization must be thorough and then you will need to add acid stable chelants like EDTA (Na2) or disodium pentetate to this. Yes, phosphoric acid (also a chelant) is recommended and peroxide is more stable at pH 5.0 or so. Finally, if you are not familiar with equipment passivation techniques, read up on it. This is essential to success and absolutely necessary if stainless steel is involved. Good luck and try not to blow anything up.
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@evchem2 hydroxypropyl guar is really great to work with, more formulators should, and it is good you mentioned a visual decrease in viscosity. The one thing I can share is many guars are not long-term stable with glycols including glycerin. I recall needing to use “glycol compatible” HP guar in the past. There may be other materials in your formulations that break the saccharide chain down to size, the cause of viscosity drop. E.g. Guars are stable with electrolytes until the point they are not. Here’s a hack if you can stand it: add a little sodium borate solution and watch it cross-link into a gummy - just like that.
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@Joejoe there are many filtering tools you can purchase and apply here. For viscous products (“non watery”?) the standard 316SS canister filter with 100 - 200micron SS frit should do. The polyester insert may be needed depending on the schmutz involved. For a cheap hack (again I should be charging money for this) assuming you are using 2.0″ Tygon hose or SS pipe with standard sanitary couplings attached, then purchase a 2.0 inch Buna N gasket having a 10 - 30 mesh SS frit, then get organza fabric from the fabric store, which is nylon and chemically inert. Stretch a piece of organza across the frit on the input side of the frit then clamp into place securely. Depending on the organza you can filter out 1 - 5micron particles. Pump slowly to avoid too much back pressure and check/clear the fabric overlay frequently during transfer.
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Notably absent is a preservative, but that is a subject for another day. Depending on the nature of those “Esters” (cetyl palmitate perhaps?) there does not appear to be anything “waxy” in there other than the 1.50% cetearyl alcohol in the BTMS-25, which is not much at all.
Are you sure you were not trippin’ at the time? ????