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  • chemicalmatt

    Member
    May 12, 2017 at 7:55 pm in reply to: Substitutes for Ethyl Alcohol

    …what Bill Toge said, and I always admire how Bill is always so politely glib about these things (even when stating the obvious, eh, Bill?) That said - and it IS obvious - we need to answer Avirock’s original question here: there is no realistic substitute for SDA in it’s role in personal care formulation as a solvent, or as a safe-to-use bacteriostat. I mean, you can apply phenol if you want to, but that will get you into trouble. Reminds me of when the U.S. reduced SDA usage in products to 55%, and hair spritz customers would ask “Can you make it so it still dries just as fast?” Me: “Uhhhh…..no.”

  • chemicalmatt

    Member
    May 12, 2017 at 7:40 pm in reply to: Another use for Xanthan Gum

    Cool move, Belassi. They say “necessity is the mother of invention.”  Maybe throw some BIT (aka Kathon) in there next time and make it “mold-resistant” concrete crack filler?  I smell a patent here for you. 

  • chemicalmatt

    Member
    May 5, 2017 at 3:07 pm in reply to: Colour Stabilizer

    Virtually all of the colours you folks mention are not stable at certain pH levels.  This could be the cause of your problem, not UV light.(Cibafast works quite well in normal conditions.)  Also, if you have alkyl quats or alkyl amines present in your formula - watch out.

  • chemicalmatt

    Member
    May 5, 2017 at 3:02 pm in reply to: Improving urea’s stability in cream

    Two things here, friends: definitely apply the lactate buffer to his at pH 5.0 - plus, and add a lot of propylene glycol, not only to solvate SalAcid but to lower the water activity stabilizing urea even more.  Also: urea at 5.0% or more softens keratin (that would be skin, right?) remarkably well.  That is why it has been used in skin-softening creams for over 80 years. Urea is one the oldest known skin-care treatments in our industry.

  • chemicalmatt

    Member
    May 2, 2017 at 1:54 am in reply to: Allantion issue

    The presence of urea in solution will greatly increase the solubility of allantoin.  You will just have to deal with urea in your formula then, not the worst thing for a skin-care product, eh?

  • chemicalmatt

    Member
    April 17, 2017 at 9:55 pm in reply to: Spider pomade, Dry effect ointment on the hair

    Natasha, try acrylamide copolymers for this effect.  In English the word to describe is “pituity”. (Most English speakers don’t know this too.) Liquid stretching between hands like spider web.

  • chemicalmatt

    Member
    April 17, 2017 at 9:49 pm in reply to: Oxalic acid

    Use oxalic acid it at 5.0 - 7.0% for stone floor polish, where it creates the effect you name specifically because it reacts with divalent alkali metals such as Ca and Mg present in stone surfaces.  You are not going to eat this product, just treat your floor with it, right?. Standard safe handling procedures apply.

  • chemicalmatt

    Member
    April 17, 2017 at 9:38 pm in reply to: Need help!

    With all that Leucidal, all that acidity (pH about 3.0 thereabouts?), plus low water activity, why bother with any other preservative? Remember that K-sorbate has much lower water solubility the lower the pH, so your immediate problem is one of pH adjustment to stop the sorbate from precipitating.  But again, why bother? Leave it out.

  • chemicalmatt

    Member
    March 8, 2017 at 7:36 pm in reply to: materials

    Try getting accepted as a “user” with UL Prospector. You may need an active industry chemist to qualify you.  Once in, you can request samples from the many chemical ingredient suppliers who subscribe. I do know that independent consultants often get ignored by manufacturers and distributors, who don’t often realize these folks may be recommending their materials to their clients for further commercialization. Too bad, this is short-sighted.

  • chemicalmatt

    Member
    March 8, 2017 at 7:29 pm in reply to: The first formula I ever made was………

    I was the batch validation and analytical chemist on record for the very first pilot batch of tolanaftate foot cream for OTC treatment of athlete’s feet. This was while working for Schering-Plough, which no longer exists.  To this day, whenever I see that product on the store shelves (all private label now; patent expired) I have a sense of nostalgia.

  • chemicalmatt

    Member
    February 24, 2017 at 5:52 pm in reply to: Tremendously drop of viscosity

    Lose the xanthan gum immediately, and as my esteemed colleagues have suggested use Bentone GEL instead of the raw  Bentone colloid because this was only partially activated if at all. Also keep in mind that virtually all W/Si emulsions are unstable intrinsically over time. “Shake before using” on your label will help here too. And, oh yeah, homogenize but do not over-homogenize this or it will fail.

  • chemicalmatt

    Member
    February 24, 2017 at 5:40 pm in reply to: Emulsion failed

    Beeswax/borax is OK (quite “retro, actually) to use, scorpio35, and it will always form a w/o emulsion.  You have too much water in this formula, you need to increase your oil ratio, plus as Perry alludes, you need to add a co-emulsifier called an absorption base to keep this together.  Reduce the beeswax (and borax) and add a small level of sorbitan sesquioleate or sorbitan oleate, plus some lanolin or microcrystalline wax. If this were made with mineral oil, it would hang together nicely.  If you are using all triglyceride oils (e.g. vegetable, botanical), then you may be SOL here and there may be no hope but to resort to mineral colloids.  

  • chemicalmatt

    Member
    February 24, 2017 at 5:19 pm in reply to: EDTA and Carbopol

    Better yet,lopamudra, don’t add any Na(x) EDTA at all if you are using any type of carbomer including Ultrez. This is an electrolyte and it WILL crash the acrylate polymer chain extension resulting in poor or no viscosity.  If you have to use it for whatever reason, add it after you have hydrated the Ultrez and don’t use much of it or you will be defeating the purpose of the Ultrez. 

  • chemicalmatt

    Member
    February 9, 2017 at 9:29 pm in reply to: Hair product flaking.

    Holy crap, that is a lot of PVP K-90! That is your sole problem here, both with the flaky ppt and with the lack of gel firmness in the end product.  Lower that to 2% or less and you should not see flaking, plus you should have a firm w/s pomade. Even better, use PVP K-30 as johnb suggests.

  • chemicalmatt

    Member
    February 6, 2017 at 8:46 pm in reply to: Nail polish sample prep for GCMS and LCMS analysis

    If you are to use HPLC, I would suggest normal phase instead of reverse phase chromatography.  The best carrier solvent will be acetone (like the shop uses!) or toluene (never methanol in normal phase), though acetonitrile may be included in a programmed mobile phase addition if that is available, to vary the polarity and get better peak separation. GC will be much more forgiving, if flame ionization were the detector. With MS detection, I can’t say whether or not you will “gum up the works” inside that interferometer. Worst case, you have to take it apart and clean it out with polar solvent. In any event, good luck with your experiment and do share your results with us if successful.

  • chemicalmatt

    Member
    February 3, 2017 at 10:46 pm in reply to: What are the standard books about formulating for HI&I?
    Good question. Besides Henry’s Formulas, which is a bit dated, I don’t know of one.  I’ve always used the tech lit/website for Stepan, Pilot, Lubrizol, Huntsman, et.al. Here in Chicago, TAB Chemical, now Brenntag Great Lakes, used to have the most exhaustive compendium of HI&I and automotive formulae anywhere. Having formulated these products for so many years I always tell cosmetic chemists: when it comes to HI&I, if you got more than six ingredients in there, you are probably over-thinking the job. Cheers! 
  • chemicalmatt

    Member
    February 3, 2017 at 10:40 pm in reply to: potassium cocoate

    Why bother when you can purchase it for only $0.65/lb. by the drum. Just sayin’.

  • chemicalmatt

    Member
    February 3, 2017 at 10:38 pm in reply to: Polyglyceryl ester emulsifier preferences

    Jane, I know where to buy these surfactants. That is not the issue.  As I stated, I am an industrial user, and know Evonik, Protameen, Gattefosse, Lubrizol, Croda, etc., etc. very well. My query regarded anyone’s real-time results from their use in o/w emulsions where the main oil load is polar, e.g. jojoba oil, olive oil, branched esters…so, do you have any experience in this regard that you can share?

  • chemicalmatt

    Member
    January 31, 2017 at 4:04 pm in reply to: Zinc Pyrithione Supplier?

    I’ll second chemist77’s suggestion. Salicylates (India) sells Salidruff, which is suspension grade zinc pyrithione.  If you are in the U.S. (or NAFTA, for now) you may purchase the standard 49% suspension from Kraft Chemical Company in Melrose Park, Illinois.

  • chemicalmatt

    Member
    January 11, 2017 at 4:44 pm in reply to: Anhydrous Body Butter & Sugar Scrub- Adding Heat stability?

    Add ceresine to these at 0.50% and you should be good to go up to 45C.

  • chemicalmatt

    Member
    January 11, 2017 at 4:37 pm in reply to: Adding Essential Oils as an Active Ingredient Correctly

    Either way, incorporating that much oil you should add this to your oil phase, assuming you have an o/w emulsion at work here. You only need to have it heated to 75C for an hour or less, and most EO are not as thermally sensitive as literature (or even $&#! google, for that matter) would lead you to believe.

  • chemicalmatt

    Member
    December 15, 2016 at 6:03 pm in reply to: Moisturizing babies daily

    Petrolatum and mineral oil (aka “baby oil”) were safe mainstays for baby care for decades.  I hope this article finds some traction among all the “chemical-free” and ” all natural” marketers out there.  It kind of punks their entire ethos, if you look at it. Merry Christmas to you, Bob.  

  • chemicalmatt

    Member
    December 8, 2016 at 7:07 pm in reply to: Single use pod packaging

    Elise, these 2 oz. induction-sealed pods require very specialized equipment, especially should you want to embed them in the mailer. (We call that “card tipping” in the biz.)  Most of the available machines run 5 oz. and higher, and those can be had on the aftermarket at a bargain; think cream cheese containers in the U.S. dairy case. These smaller-die machines are used to fill single-use ketchup pods that you see in fast-food joints. We do not have one, and I’m unsure who does in the cosmetics realm.  I have to think the MOQ will be 250,000 plus should you find someone.  Single-use pouches are more economical, just not as groovy looking.

  • Propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, ethoxydiglycol, sorbitol, glycerine, PEG-ethers, etc., etc.

  • chemicalmatt

    Member
    November 21, 2016 at 3:45 pm in reply to: Our current range

    Best of luck to you Belassi. I know you worked hard on this.  Let’s hope mucho trabajo leads to mas dinero.

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