chemicalmatt
Forum Replies Created
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Might be a long shot but have you tried a retail nutritional store? They feature more than one grade of lecithin, 70 - 90% active and usually hydrogenated.
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You do not allow concentrations used here so it is nearly impossible to help you. If there is less than 25% total of those many polar oils I would try a polyglyceryl ester such as polyglyceryl-6 oleate, polyglyceryl-6 hydroxystearate…a combination works best along with a “buddy ester” like sorbitan oleate, glyceryl stearate citrate, lauryl glutamate. Good luck with all that expensive peptide.
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That is weird. Nice knock-out work too there, my friend. Often pheoxyethanol crashes viscosity in surfactant systems but I’ve never known a ppt. to form. Must be somehow knocking out a crosslink in the SF-2, creating a less crystalline/less soluble sub chain? Anyhow, your pH is sufficiently low to accommodate an acid-based preservative , i.e. benzoate, sorbate, caprylhydroxamic, etc.. especially if you knock it down to pH4.8 - 5.2. Even better: do you have an objection to using Kathon (MIT)? Ideal for this formulation.
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Negative. Neither contributes any apparent yield value to shampoos like that. EGMS is not so much suspended as it is emulsified in those surfactant systems. I can’t speak to the silicone thing you mention.
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What Phil & Mark said…plus there are simpler ways to stabilize urea. Most common is to employ a lactate/lactic acid buffer at pH5.5 or so. An uncommon one is to add rice starch to the formula. Some amyloid starches adsorb urea in solution retarding degradation into biuret and ammonia. Cool, huh!
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Approximately pH2.80
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@Maria2772 Answer: Nope!
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@VictoriaBee The original Polawax fabricated by Croda was and still is cetearyl alcohol @ 65% / polysorbate 60 @ 35% (aka “polyoxyethylene sorbitan monostearate”.) Some specialty chemical suppliers offer an offset to Promulgen D, another early emulsifier blend from the now defunct Amerchol in which ceteareth-20 is substituted for polysorbate 60. Both are often referred to as Emulsifying Wax NF, even though Polawax is the monographed material. The substance you were buying was a hybrid of the two, erroneously labeled “Polawax”. All you need is to obtain cetearyl alcohol, ceteareth-20 and polysorbate 60 then blend to your own needs, ceteareth-20 being more flexible in o/w emulsions. PEG-150 Stearate is nice to have around also, but unnecessary most of the time.
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There is a disconnect here: are you formulating a w/o sunscreen emulsion here? If so, I don’t expect any of the rheology modifiers you mention to work well if at all. Neither the urethane (ExpertGel) nor the acrylic (Pemulen) will build viscosity. Both must have a carbomer partnered with it to build viscosity so just add 0.50 - 1.0% Synthalen K (carbomer) with Pemulen TR-2 - which handles up to 40% oil load, twice that of TR-1 - and make this an o/w emulsion. Add 1.0 - 2.0% cetyl alcohol and some silky sensorial esters and you are done. PBSA is totally compatible with the anionic acrylics.
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That Polyaquol polyglyceryl ester blend will work better than Olivem 900 just as long as you are formulating w/o emulsions with it.
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The answer is a qualified YES. I am unfamiliar with “Ecogel” but must assume it is a gum-derived hydrocolloid? On another note: why make all these slurries and pre-gels? It baffles me why so many formulators do this. Simply change the order of addition and use the right mixing equipment and that technique is never needed again. Direct hydration into water, one at a time, side-sweep agitation engaging when the yield value increases. Much easier.
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Fascinating account there, Mike. You and your wife were indie-natural beauty before that was cool. I take it you are transitioning out of this personal care vortex now? Good luck to you in your next phase.
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Do you have a problem with carbomers for making gels? Sounds like those “essentials” may have residual elements such as geraniols or doped with phenoxyethanol. A carbomer gel would be unaffected.
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None that I can think of.
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Affirmative. Not compatible with most of those listed. Try Plan B.
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Looks like “as is” activity concentrations to me. Considering PQ-7 is always 10% active, 0.025% doesn’t do much conditioning there. I also question adding 3.0% PEG-10 dimethicone when 1.0% will do fine.
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First, let me agree - as usual - with @ketchito: polyquaternium-37 has different function and application than BTMS, so not to make a 1:1 correlation. On the other questions: yes, disperse PQ-37 into water first as it is difficult to hydrate when other materials are vying for water. Adding later will be MUCH more difficult unless it happens to be in the emulsion format like Salcare SC-96. Yes, PQ-37 will successfully allow oils & silicones, and much more than 10%, since it’s 3D structure in water makes for a Pickering effect with good apparent yield value; but…BTMS happens to be one of the best cationic emulsifiers for dimethicone. Finally, polyquaternium-80 has modest hair conditioning activity so I recommend 0.50% as floor. PQ-80 finds its best use in hair color retention formulations being a good film-former.
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We do not hand out final formulas here @psemwal2010 , we only share knowledge. SHould you want to obtain a starter formulation I suggest visiting websites of the major surfactant manufacturers, such as Stepan, Pilot, Synesqo, etc.
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Try Stabylen 30 from 3V Sigma USA or SpA depending on which continent you are on. Works same only pH range is a tad higher: 5.0 - 12.0
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Add a little bit of lactic acid to steady the pH at 5.0 - 6.0 and a bit of mannitol to inhibit redox reactions with light, oxidizers.
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Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate (ALS) is much milder than SLS, this is true. Same goes for the ethoxylates: ALES is milder on skin than SLES.
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BTAC is the most substantial behenyl quaternary ammonium salt simply because it has the highest charge-mass ratio. The other behenyl and brassicyl quats have weaker ones, simple as that. Now if the user maintains contact with the other ones for a longer time - 20 to 30 minutes maybe - they might match BTAC. The brassicyl quats have a sensorial finish not nearly as soft as the behenyls, so keep that in mind. That could be the source of the “chalky” response.
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I am with gordof here: why so much EDTA? It doesn’t make any sense. Is there a decimal point missing? Also not especially safe orally.
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This formula needs a hydrotrope with all that anionic surfactant and glucoside, glucamide as ketchito points out. Try disodium cocoamphodiacetate or dipropionate - or sodium xylene sulfonate if you can bear that on your label - at low concentration and you may resolve this. Also consider which polymer size of Polyquaternium-10 used. The common one for cleansing products is 400, but if you happen to be using 30,000 well…fugettabottit.
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Besides the helpful advice from graillotion and Mike, all legit, I’ll add that addition of lower HLB polyglyceryl fatty esters are used in foods and cosmetics to solve this problem of crystallization. Try adding some polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate to the mix and find out.