[Bureta14]

Hi,

The HLB required to emulsify paraffin is 10-11, what is the HLB of the emulsifier wax you are using?.

It might also be due to the cooling mixing speed and the propeller you are using. after combining oil to water phase, maintain the rpm and temp for 8-10 min, then turn off heat, switch to an anchor blade and reduce the speed.

• This reply was modified 1 month, 3 weeks ago by  Bureta14.

[Bureta14]

what type of hair dyes? oxidative or non-oxidative?, what appearance/texture (cream, liquid-to-gel, aerosol, foam, gel)?, which shades? are you looking for an specific claim?

[Bureta14]

You could replace the PEG-150 Pentaerythrityl Tetrastearate with Versathix (PEG-150 Pentaerythrityl Tetrastearate (and) PPG-2 Hydroxyethyl Cocamide (and) Water), and it can be added at the end because it is cold processed.

[Bureta14]

 clean beauty is about to avoid using any controversial ingredient in your product. So clean beauty concept is being constantly updated based on cosmetic trends. 

[Bureta14]

I have formulated conditioners with  Crodazoquat MCC and or Crodasozoft DBQ. And Crodasosoft CSO will provide conditioning and shine properties. And you could add cetearyl alcohol as thickener. 
Behetrimonium chloride is also a great cationic conditioner with thickening properties. 

[Bureta14]

Pharma said:

Well, if you remove the alcohol and leave chlorhexidine (assuming that’s what you mean by ACH) to the pros, then you’ll get a nice bodylotion which does what it’s supposed to do, sooth and care.

@Belassi diplomatic enough? :smiley:

Hello!. Thank you for your comments. ACH is Aluminum Chlorohydrate. I can’t remove alcohol because the non-volatile and volatile silicone emmolients will not dissolve. If I replace alcohol by water I will need more solubilizer (emulsifier) then. 

[Bureta14]

Hello CreatuveHands!
Yes, I know about formulation of hair dyes but I first need to know  what kind of coloration you want to formulate, do you have a benchmark? so then I will know what kind of hair coloration you are looking for and suggest a developer and hair dye base formulation.  
If it is a temporary coloration you don’t need a developer since the color coats the surface of the hair shaft but does not penetrate the cortex, so the dye is easily washed out and lasts up to 3 washes. 
If it is a permanent coloration you will mixed developer and hair dye. then the viscosity of both formulas is important and also is the mixture viscosity. the color penetrates the cortex and to do so this coloration needs two essencial components: COLORANT (dye precursor/alkalizer/ thickening system) + COLOR ACTIVATOR (Hydrogen peroxide).  
Permanent coloration is more tricky to formulate because of the alkalizer agent you will use, the mixture ratio (colorant+developer), the shades you want to formulate is order to stablish the volumes of the developer and ratio you should apply on hair, among others. 

Regards. 

[Bureta14]

Hello!
R1. Main difference is the percentage of Hydrogen peroxide content (20 vol = 6-6.5% H2O2; 30vol= 9-9.5% H2O2, 40vol = 12%H2O2). Color activator (developer) is mostly used in permanent hair dyes or bleaching formulations. The more volumes you use, the more lightening effect on hair, which means more natural color of the hair will be removed. 

R2. It depends on the color of the hair before applying the hair dye and the color you want to obtain. You should do some tests on synthetic or natural hair tresess prior to apply on a model.  What type of hair dye do you want to apply? (temporary, permanent, semi permanent?). 

R3. If the formula is the same except for the H2O2 percentage, then the cost/kg will be very similar since the only difference is 6% of H2O2 between 20vol and 40vol). 

R4. Yes. but it also depends on other factors such as the exposure time on hair, the formulation (if it contains some conditioning agents will be less damage), the type of application (if is for bleaching or mixed with hair dye). 

[Bureta14]

Hi!, just adding some hints:

1. Your chassis of the cream needs more emulsifiers to emulsify that qty of oil in your formula (try to use Cetearyl alcohol + Glyceryl Stearate) and SLES as surfactant or Oleic acid as surfactant/cleansing agent

2. Oleic acid did not work if you did not increase the MEA to saponify it. The formula needs MEA to saponify the oleic acid and also for the development of the color (to swell the hair fiber).

3. During the production in the plant for Liquid Hair Dyes, it is added Nitrogen before closing the bottle with the product, so you need to add Nitrogen to your lab samples as well, otherwise it will completely oxidize over time.

4. Croda Inc. has some starting point formulas for hair dyes in cream and liquid. I think you could use them as a reference. I used Promidium CO in a liquid hair dye; and formulated a cream hair dye based on their starting point formulations.

5. If you have any issue with the mixture viscosity, try to add Volares FL to the developer, so it will thicken when mixed with the colorant