Forum Replies Created

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  • Bobzchemist

    Member
    July 9, 2014 at 4:14 pm in reply to: ingredient for producing fine particle makeup fixing spray

    To check if @chemicalmatt is correct, buy a powered sprayer to test with, so things like spring strength and orifice size are less of a problem.

  • Bobzchemist

    Member
    July 9, 2014 at 4:11 pm in reply to: Soap Nuts- Sapindus Mukorossi Extract

    Just as a FYI - our customers with tree nut allergies freak when they hear about products made with soap nuts. They are Soap BERRIES.

  • Bobzchemist

    Member
    July 9, 2014 at 4:09 pm in reply to: Soap Nuts- Sapindus Mukorossi Extract

    Yes, I do. I’ve been working with this stuff a lot. Do you need a certified organic version?

  • Bobzchemist

    Member
    July 8, 2014 at 12:35 pm in reply to: Slow darkening in a phospholipid emulsion

    “The vitamin C… It’s very hard next to impossible to avoid vitamin C oxidation. “


    Fixed that for you… :)
  • Bobzchemist

    Member
    July 3, 2014 at 11:14 am in reply to: P & G really likes to preserve their products

    My guess would be that all of the extracts come with their own preservative system, and P&G was either too lazy or to cheap to ask for special versions with a common preservative system.

  • Bobzchemist

    Member
    July 2, 2014 at 9:00 am in reply to: Decyl Glucoside

    @nasrins,

    You said “betain produces onions too but not as much as SLES” Did you mean ions or anions?

    @vitalys, if you’re going to tease, it looks like you need to point out the source to prevent misunderstanding…
  • Bobzchemist

    Member
    July 1, 2014 at 4:13 pm in reply to: Decyl Glucoside

    Simple test - try the APG and the betaine without the aculyn or salt - is it still “heavy”? 

    Potentially, you might have your surfactant levels too high.
  • Be careful - adding water to Texapon might gel it up and burn out your mixer if you’re not paying attention.

  • Bobzchemist

    Member
    June 30, 2014 at 5:04 pm in reply to: Clear petrolatum lip balm
    It’s clear that the petrolatum is at 56.8%, and that the other 2 main ingredients are Lanolin and Mineral Oil. Get a few different grades of petrolatum and play with the ratio’s a bit, see where that gets you.

    Or…

    Look into this instead of regular petrolatum: Versagel P-200


  • Bobzchemist

    Member
    June 30, 2014 at 3:47 pm in reply to: Clear petrolatum lip balm

    Also, the Rosebud Perfume Co. Smith’s Rosebud Salve has an ingredient declaration that is clearly non-compliant with FDA regulations. Personally, I’m kind of shocked that the FDA (and the company’s lawyers) lets them get away with it.

  • Bobzchemist

    Member
    June 30, 2014 at 3:31 pm in reply to: Clear petrolatum lip balm

    Are you using pigments?

  • Sorry, this is way out of our area - we are cosmetic chemists. The only thing that I can suggest is that you get in touch with the major silicone suppliers (Dow Corning, GE, ShinEtsu) and see if they have prototype formulas.

    Although…from my cosmetic chemistry experience, I know that it’s almost impossible to make a silicone/water emulsion without using a silicone emulsifier. You’re just throwing your money away trying to use lecithin.
  • Bobzchemist

    Member
    June 28, 2014 at 11:39 am in reply to: A problem in skin care cream

    This is where a knock out experimental series would be useful.

  • Bobzchemist

    Member
    June 28, 2014 at 11:36 am in reply to: formulation needed for bubbles
  • Bobzchemist

    Member
    June 28, 2014 at 11:17 am in reply to: L.a.b color space
  • Bobzchemist

    Member
    June 27, 2014 at 9:21 pm in reply to: SPF lip product

    Testing is very, very expensive. Making an OTC drug instead of a cosmetic just about doubles the manufacturing cost also.

  • Bobzchemist

    Member
    June 27, 2014 at 7:38 am in reply to: Stabilize Vitamin C
  • Bobzchemist

    Member
    June 26, 2014 at 4:35 pm in reply to: Need Advice for hiring a Cosmetic Chemist

    Yes, it would. I don’t think either a fragrance chemist or a toxicologist would have the breadth of knowledge that would be needed for a project like this. 

    Depending on the resources you have available, and the level of ownership you will be asserting over this information, you might want to consider using a student/group of students in a graduate-level cosmetic chemistry program, or hiring a cosmetic chemist who acts as a consultant.
  • Bobzchemist

    Member
    June 26, 2014 at 12:19 pm in reply to: Sodium Silicate Whitening

    try phenyl trimethicone also.

    What is the sodium silicate being used for?
  • Bobzchemist

    Member
    June 26, 2014 at 9:58 am in reply to: Need Advice for hiring a Cosmetic Chemist

    Thanks, @DavidW.

    @greenearth, it would help if you’d tell us why you want this analysis to be done and what purpose you’d use the results for. 
  • Bobzchemist

    Member
    June 26, 2014 at 9:55 am in reply to: Sodium Silicate Whitening

    Sodium silicate is a white powder. While it is soluble in water, when the water dries, it returns to being a white powder.

    A film of another non-volatile liquid can help conceal the whiteness. What other materials have you tried?
  • Bobzchemist

    Member
    June 25, 2014 at 9:26 am in reply to: Isododecane and Dimethicone

    @alexandrekollman, I also need to know what equipment you have access to in order to make this batch. Do you have a fume hood where you can heat volatile ingredients safely? What will you use to disperse your pigments? How will you mix your formula?

  • Bobzchemist

    Member
    June 24, 2014 at 9:11 pm in reply to: Isododecane and Dimethicone

    Alexandra,

    I have to know what level you’re at - are you formulating for yourself and friends, as a home-based/small business, or as a professional chemist for a corporation? I ask because I’ve shown folks how to find professional-level formulations before, and it’s led to a lot of frustration, etc,. when they can’t get samples of ingredients or meet suppliers minimum purchase requirements.
  • Bobzchemist

    Member
    June 24, 2014 at 1:07 pm in reply to: Isododecane and Dimethicone

    Chances are very, very high that you have listed an incomplete ingredient list. Most manufacturers have done something like this to preserve trade secrets. 

    The essential question you will have to answer first is - what will hold this lipstick on the lips? All of the ingredients you have listed will wipe away at the slightest touch.
  • Bobzchemist

    Member
    June 23, 2014 at 3:39 pm in reply to: Stearate base emulsion

    @nasrins, I am always careful to calculate formulas using the SAP values of the specific grade of fatty acid I will be using, in order to make sure that I don’t have to adjust the pH downward. In my experience, adjusting the pH of a finished stearic, oleic, and/or palmitic emulsion downwards has a good possibility of breaking at least some of the emulsion, due to localized acid effects. 

    In other words, when you add acid to a batch, unless you are adding acid diluted in a great deal of water, the area of the batch where the acid has been added has a temporarily lower pH until the acid is diluted and dispersed through out the batch. This can lead to problems if your emulsifier(s) are pH sensitive.
    Below a certain pH (empirically about 8.5 - 9.0) fatty acid soaps separate back into fatty acid and base. As the batch regains an equilibrium pH, you’d expect the fatty acids to re-saponify. This would not have to be a problem, except for three things:
    1) The acid that you’ve added is now competing for the base in the batch.
    2) Rapid saponification depends on heat - if your batch is too cool, it won’t happen. This is especially true with stearic acid, which needs to be molten to saponify.
    3) You have based your stability around the emulsification power of the fatty acid soaps, so when the soaps fall apart, so does the emulsion. Even if the fatty acid soaps re-saponify, you are going to have to go back to your original emulsification conditions to restore the batch to it’s original emulsified condition.

    There is one way to cope with this, and I have done it several times - you have to pH adjust your batch while it is still emulsifying. To do this, you pull a small sample, cool it down, and titrate the pH. Using the small batch amount as a guide, scale up the adjustment and add it to the larger batch. Only then can you start cooling.

    Hope this helps,

    Bob
Page 86 of 101
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