

Bobzchemist
Forum Replies Created
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Bobzchemist
MemberJuly 9, 2014 at 4:14 pm in reply to: ingredient for producing fine particle makeup fixing sprayTo check if @chemicalmatt is correct, buy a powered sprayer to test with, so things like spring strength and orifice size are less of a problem.
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Just as a FYI - our customers with tree nut allergies freak when they hear about products made with soap nuts. They are Soap BERRIES.
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Yes, I do. I’ve been working with this stuff a lot. Do you need a certified organic version?
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“The vitamin C… It’s
very hardnext to impossible to avoid vitamin C oxidation. “Fixed that for you… -
Bobzchemist
MemberJuly 3, 2014 at 11:14 am in reply to: P & G really likes to preserve their productsMy guess would be that all of the extracts come with their own preservative system, and P&G was either too lazy or to cheap to ask for special versions with a common preservative system.
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Simple test - try the APG and the betaine without the aculyn or salt - is it still “heavy”?
Potentially, you might have your surfactant levels too high. -
Bobzchemist
MemberJune 30, 2014 at 5:06 pm in reply to: whats the best way to dissolve texapon(sodium laureth sulfate) in water?Be careful - adding water to Texapon might gel it up and burn out your mixer if you’re not paying attention.
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It’s clear that the petrolatum is at 56.8%, and that the other 2 main ingredients are Lanolin and Mineral Oil. Get a few different grades of petrolatum and play with the ratio’s a bit, see where that gets you.Or…Look into this instead of regular petrolatum: Versagel P-200
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Also, the Rosebud Perfume Co. Smith’s Rosebud Salve has an ingredient declaration that is clearly non-compliant with FDA regulations. Personally, I’m kind of shocked that the FDA (and the company’s lawyers) lets them get away with it.
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Are you using pigments?
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Bobzchemist
MemberJune 30, 2014 at 9:07 am in reply to: What is flow of Making silicone emulsion (milky) for bike polish?Sorry, this is way out of our area - we are cosmetic chemists. The only thing that I can suggest is that you get in touch with the major silicone suppliers (Dow Corning, GE, ShinEtsu) and see if they have prototype formulas.
Although…from my cosmetic chemistry experience, I know that it’s almost impossible to make a silicone/water emulsion without using a silicone emulsifier. You’re just throwing your money away trying to use lecithin. -
This is where a knock out experimental series would be useful.
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Testing is very, very expensive. Making an OTC drug instead of a cosmetic just about doubles the manufacturing cost also.
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Mortar and pestle won’t work - it’s more for plants. Use a muller:
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Yes, it would. I don’t think either a fragrance chemist or a toxicologist would have the breadth of knowledge that would be needed for a project like this.
Depending on the resources you have available, and the level of ownership you will be asserting over this information, you might want to consider using a student/group of students in a graduate-level cosmetic chemistry program, or hiring a cosmetic chemist who acts as a consultant. -
try phenyl trimethicone also.
What is the sodium silicate being used for? -
Thanks, @DavidW.
@greenearth, it would help if you’d tell us why you want this analysis to be done and what purpose you’d use the results for. -
Sodium silicate is a white powder. While it is soluble in water, when the water dries, it returns to being a white powder.
A film of another non-volatile liquid can help conceal the whiteness. What other materials have you tried? -
@alexandrekollman, I also need to know what equipment you have access to in order to make this batch. Do you have a fume hood where you can heat volatile ingredients safely? What will you use to disperse your pigments? How will you mix your formula?
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Alexandra,
I have to know what level you’re at - are you formulating for yourself and friends, as a home-based/small business, or as a professional chemist for a corporation? I ask because I’ve shown folks how to find professional-level formulations before, and it’s led to a lot of frustration, etc,. when they can’t get samples of ingredients or meet suppliers minimum purchase requirements. -
Chances are very, very high that you have listed an incomplete ingredient list. Most manufacturers have done something like this to preserve trade secrets.
The essential question you will have to answer first is - what will hold this lipstick on the lips? All of the ingredients you have listed will wipe away at the slightest touch. -
@nasrins, I am always careful to calculate formulas using the SAP values of the specific grade of fatty acid I will be using, in order to make sure that I don’t have to adjust the pH downward. In my experience, adjusting the pH of a finished stearic, oleic, and/or palmitic emulsion downwards has a good possibility of breaking at least some of the emulsion, due to localized acid effects.
In other words, when you add acid to a batch, unless you are adding acid diluted in a great deal of water, the area of the batch where the acid has been added has a temporarily lower pH until the acid is diluted and dispersed through out the batch. This can lead to problems if your emulsifier(s) are pH sensitive.Below a certain pH (empirically about 8.5 - 9.0) fatty acid soaps separate back into fatty acid and base. As the batch regains an equilibrium pH, you’d expect the fatty acids to re-saponify. This would not have to be a problem, except for three things:1) The acid that you’ve added is now competing for the base in the batch.2) Rapid saponification depends on heat - if your batch is too cool, it won’t happen. This is especially true with stearic acid, which needs to be molten to saponify.3) You have based your stability around the emulsification power of the fatty acid soaps, so when the soaps fall apart, so does the emulsion. Even if the fatty acid soaps re-saponify, you are going to have to go back to your original emulsification conditions to restore the batch to it’s original emulsified condition.There is one way to cope with this, and I have done it several times - you have to pH adjust your batch while it is still emulsifying. To do this, you pull a small sample, cool it down, and titrate the pH. Using the small batch amount as a guide, scale up the adjustment and add it to the larger batch. Only then can you start cooling.Hope this helps,Bob