[Bobzchemist]

http://ocw.mit.edu/courses/chemistry/

[Bobzchemist]

Here’s the thing - actual cosmetic science is all about experimentation. Try different levels - you’ll learn more.

[Bobzchemist]

@Perry,

I really liked the voting idea - it’s just the programming that didn’t play nice with the rest of the site.

Bob

[Bobzchemist]

Perry is right - this “study” is a piece of poo (pun intended). It reads like a child’s science fair project.

Reputable studies give experimental data, divulge exact procedures, list every bit of equipment, and draw logical conclusions - this study has done absolutely none of that. I also agree that the difference between pH7 and pH5 shampoos may be too small to measure.

Not all of the information/studies are published, but if I recall correctly, there is an overwhelming preponderance of evidence that the hair shaft is smoother and combing resistance goes down on post-shampooed hair as the pH of the shampoo decreases. Both precise measurements of combing resistance (Instron) and electron microphotographs exist to confirm this.

I know that there is supplier literature about this somewhere.

[Bobzchemist]

Finished spreadsheet: (500 gram batch size)

A B C

1 Batch Size 500 Weights:

2 Water 70% 350.00

3 Fragrance 10% 50.00

4 Alcohol 20% 100.00

5 Total 100%

The total of the weights in Column C should match the batch size you entered in Column B. (Cell B1)

[Bobzchemist]

Next, enter your batch size (without units) in a new cell: (I usually insert a row on top) 

A B

1 Batch Size 500

2 Water 70%

3 Fragrance 10%

4 Alcohol 20%

5 Total 100%

Finally, you need to enter the formula in Column C, which is (Batch Size)*(% of ingredient in formula). Excel lets you refer to cells when you put in a formula, so you don’t have to enter the formula numbers again.

 

Example: (I’m showing the formula, not the results that you’ll see after you enter it)

A B C

1 Batch Size 500 Weights:

2 Water 70% =B1*B2

3 Fragrance 10% =B1*B3

4 Alcohol 20% =B1*B4

5 Total 100%

[Bobzchemist]

You really, really need to take the time to master the concept of percentages - it’s critically important.

You can set up your excel spreadsheet in percent. This simplifies the formula you need to use.

Example:

A B

1 Water 70%

2 Fragrance 10%

3 Alcohol 20%

4 Total 100%

[Bobzchemist]

Writing and reading comments seems to be completely disabled.

[Bobzchemist]

https://www.khanacademy.org/math/pre-algebra/decimals-pre-alg/percent-intro-pre-alg/v/describing-the-meaning-of-percent

http://www.mathgoodies.com/lessons/toc_vol4.html

http://www.mathsisfun.com/percentage.html

[Bobzchemist]

First, give us an approximate budget.

Next, tell us the purpose of the lab - home crafting, professional consulting, manufacturing support, etc., and the types of products you want to make in the lab.

Last, tell us what’s more important to you - small numbers of high quality but expensive gear with a long life, or larger numbers of lower quality, cheaper equipment that will have to be replaced in a few years.

[Bobzchemist]

No, sorry, not for the pure chemical. It’s just one of those things.

There are liquid mixes that have some SCI in them that should be RT soluble… 

[Bobzchemist]

Probably not safe from a FDA standpoint to try to sell this in the US…

[Bobzchemist]

I know I’ve tried several times - once you get much over SPF 15-20 it’s almost impossible to mask the nasty taste. The only way we got to 30 was with Zinc Oxide - which is not the look most women want on their lips…

http://dermatone.beaumontproducts.com/lip-and-face-protection

[Bobzchemist]

If you use enough salt, you won’t need a preservative…

[Bobzchemist]

$5 for a 100 gram tube?!?

Wow…I need to move to Australia and start making toothpaste - I’d be rolling in money in no time.

OK, so most toothpaste in the US uses a combination of a special grade of silica and xanthan gum to thicken the paste. Add some surfactants and flavoring and you’re done.

For home use, I would strongly suggest leaving the silica out - get the wrong grade and you could scrub the enamel right off your teeth. That would be very bad. Calcium carbonate works much more gently.

Try the formulation here:

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=3&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0CE4QFjAC&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.researchgate.net%2Fpublication%2F38109425_Formulation_of_toothpaste_from_various_forms_and_extracts_of_tender_twigs_of_neem%2Flinks%2F02e7e51d9532a4552f000000&ei=81MQVI7CCsH3yQSdy4HQBg&usg=AFQjCNEZNpGsp4k-5NbhIi319_efa-abrA&sig2=U0uSTbQ4dsIOzrvy-4sD2Q&bvm=bv.74649129,d.aWw

I am reasonably sure that all the ingredients will be available to you.

Also, experiment with varying levels of salt, which will help cleaning and preservation. The Neem in the formulas is actually optional. Make small batches.

Fill this in squeeze bottles like you’d use for ketchup or mustard and keep them refrigerated when not in use.

[Bobzchemist]

Thanks, David. We already consider our existing Triclosan antimicrobial wash both an EPA and FDA regulated product. Even though it’s a medical/hospital grade product, upper management has decreed that Triclosan must go, so I’m looking for a less-controversial alternative.

@vitalys, I appreciate the suggestions, I’ll look into those ideas.

[Bobzchemist]

Lab analysis or XRF (X-Ray Fluorescence) is required for credible results. 

XRF detectors for paint could probably be used for a lipstick film also. They have gotten much smaller and remarkably cheaper in the past few years - $5,000 - $8,000 should buy a decent one.

Some companies may even rent one for a month or two, if you don’t need it permanently.

[Bobzchemist]

Can’t be done without at least (somewhat) specialized equipment, and the ingredients used are extremely hard to get for an individual user. How much money are you willing to spend to do this?

[Bobzchemist]

No, sorry.

[Bobzchemist]

@vitalys,

One of the benefits of using a contract manufacturer is that you DON’T have to register. What you do have to do is have yourself listed on the primary packaging as a distributor or as a filler. Your contact info has to be on the package.

[Bobzchemist]

Grind it very, very finely.

[Bobzchemist]

Ordinarily, I would make you do your own search…

http://www.personalformulator.com/wvss/product_info.php?cPath=28&products_id=1214

See page 11:

http://www.vanderbiltminerals.com/ee_content/Documents/Technical/VEEGUM_VANATURAL_P_C_Pharma_Web.pdf

[Bobzchemist]

To refer this back to the one-pot emulsification post a bit ago, this is one of those situations where using a one-pot process can be a drawback. It’s important in terms of preventing crystallization to get the cetyl, stearyl, and other fatty alcohols mixed together well before emulsification, otherwise you run the risk of having droplets of mostly pure fatty alcohols lurking in your system, ready to crystallize as soon as they are left alone to accomplish their dastardly deeds.

You can attempt to avert this cruel fate by mixing/homogenizing at high temperatures for extended periods of time, but at some point the costs of doing so exceed the costs of using an auxiliary kettle to heat your oil phase in separately.

(No, I don’t know why the purple prose crept in. We may just be getting too close to Halloween…)

[Bobzchemist]

@vitalys,

One of the benefits of using a contract manufacturer is that you DON’T have to register. What you do have to do is have yourself listed on the primary packaging as a distributor or as a filler. Your contact info has to be on the package.

[Bobzchemist]

It’s been my experience that Behenyl doesn’t crystallize nearly as much. I’m not sure why - it could just be because the grades I’ve used haven’t been very pure.