Bobzchemist
Forum Replies Created
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Rinse-off or leave-on application?
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I’m pretty sure that those guys are actually selling (or claim they’re selling) live bacterial cultures. I have no idea how you prove safety with something like that.
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And yet, a great many of our customers are asking for/requiring one for everything they sell, whether it’s a cosmetic or not. When Walmart or Boots or Aldi says you must supply one or they won’t buy from you, what are you going to do? (Especially considering that your competitors have no problems with providing one)
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There’s a silicone coupled to a sunscreen that’s a booster (PARSOL® SLX) - that might be a possibility.
Hallstar has a few options:
https://www.hallstar.com/webfoo/wp-content/uploads/Hallstar_Sun_Care_Brochure_2015.pdf -
That is very strange. You need to ask your supplier for an analytical test report, I think.
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Petrolatum is a designation for a number of ingredients with a wide range of properties. It’s possible that they used a high-melt-point petrolatum that acts like a gelling wax, rather than a vaseline.
http://www.ultrachem.com/productcontent/documents/UltrapureHMPSCletterhead.pdf
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That is truly odd. Have you tried looking at stability with a perfectly sealed/ air-tight container?
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To clarify - as far as I know, re-packaging in smaller quantities never requires re-certification. Last I heard, certification cost about $200,000 so you can see why that would be a problem.
The manufacturer of the pigment/dye is required to certify each batch of pigment that will be used for food, drugs, or cosmetics. To do this, they send samples of each batch to the FDA, where they are analyzed chemically. As long as there are no contaminants, and the colorant is what it’s supposed to be, the FDA certifies that lot of pigment.
Again, as far as I know, that certification follows every single gram of color made from that lot.
I did some checking, so here’s how this works, I think. When the certified batch of colorant is divided up by distributors, if the colorant is going to be used commercially, the distributor needs to keep track of what batch is sold to who. So, each of the packages sold to you must have a product name, the distributor name, at least one lot number, and the batch certification number. You should also get a CofA and a SDS. The distributor is required to keep records of what you buy, as are you. The idea being that the FDA requires commercial cosmetic manufacturers to be able to track back what batch of colorant was used in any given individual product, if there’s a problem. This is why you will see lot numbers on all the cosmetic products you buy - it’s a FDA requirement.
I found out that it’s not illegal for a distributor to sell a colorant for hobbyist/non-commercial use, without tracking lots or customers. Of course, it’s cheaper to sell colorants this way. While these colorants are from batch certified lots, and you can ask the distributor to prove that what was sold to you is certified, the distributor does not have to be able to tell you which of the batch certified lots he bought is the one you received. Because of this, you can’t show the FDA a batch record showing that you used a specific batch of certified colorant. And that means that it is effectively illegal for anyone who intends to sell their cosmetics to use materials sold by TKB or anyone else that is not lot-tracked and associated with a specific certified batch of colorant.
This is all true whether you buy dry colorants or colorants dispersed in a carrier liquid.
Hope this clears things up. Let me know if you hear differently - its certainly possible I got something wrong.
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This is a common (and probably unsolvable) problem. In order to be able to get hair oils to rinse out of hair, you need to incorporate some level of surfactants into your product. But those surfactants, in the presence of humidity, will inevitably start to emulsify, causing turbidity. It’s unavoidable.
Now, if you’re getting turbidity in 100% mineral oil, you have a different problem that probably is contamination of some kind. I’ve never seen a turbidity problem in pure mineral oil at temps above freezing.
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Is it legal for me to use these pre-dispersed dyes in products that I would resell? Yes, that’s not a problem. As long as the certified color is not changed chemically, the certification remains valid.
It is very seriously illegal in the US to sell anything labelled FD&C or D&C that is not “Batch Certified” - I’m talking jail-time level illegal, not a fine or a slap on the wrist. The amount of material you purchase makes no difference - if you buy 10 grams of dye or 10 tons, it still has to be certified, and the seller has to provide the certificate to you on request. It’s perfectly OK to buy from a distributor 3, 4, or 5 levels down from the manufacturer who had the material certified, and whoever sells you the colorant HAS to provide you with the paperwork if/when you ask for it.
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Here’s the thing that’s the problem with some of the attitudes - you’ve completely bought into the fear tactics and pseudo-science that marketing folks have been using to sell cosmetics for a while now, and that aggravates chemists who do this for a living.
What’s worse, saying that you want to use “ingredients… will not slowly destroy our endocrine systems, or have us running to doctors with paraben laced tumors”, (especially when we know that the “science” behind those statements lacks all credibility) strongly implies that there are cosmetics being formulated that DO slowly destroy our customers endocrine systems, and DO cause paraben laced tumors. That conveys a rather stunning level of disrespect for the professionals on this forum, since you are pretty much saying outright that we have, deliberately or otherwise, caused great harm to all of the consumers who have bought the products we personally formulated.
The more I think about it, the more I’m sorry I answered you at all.
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Read the article - but saponifying Oleic Acid at room temperature takes 10 minutes, 20 tops.
Also, for future reference - if you want us to give you advice on making a formula, and not having an “irritant” warning on the package is important, please tell us beforehand. The vast majority of institutional companies don’t care, and you would have saved me some time if I’d known.
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Coming on to a cosmetic chemists forum and asking for information about a “chemical-free” product is a lot like getting onto a vegan website and asking which cut of steak tastes better. Please do some more research on the term. To a chemist, the only thing “chemical free” is a vacuum.
Also, liquid to matte lipstick formulations rely heavily on synthetic, petroleum-derived and/or silicone chemistries - It’s simply not possible to make a “natural” version, and the “no harmful chemicals” crowd pretty much disapproves of all of the synthetics.
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Drop the CAPB and the CDEA. Substitute Oleic Acid or Tall Oil (whichever is cheaper) and saponify with KOH. Change buffer to NaCitrate. Self-preserve by keeping pH over 11.
Consider using other surfactants, SLES is expensive.
This should help:
http://www.happi.com/issues/2011-03/view_features/formulating-manual-dishwash-detergents -
If you are going to sell or even give this product to other people, precision is critically important - the risk of getting a false negative is much too high. If you’re just making products for yourself, the risk level is up to you.
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Please start a new discussion for answers, @Dilfre
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Too much electrolyte for the carbopol to tolerate. The precipitate is the carbopol kicking out. You’ll need to find a more electrolyte-tolerant thickener.
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I’ve also seen similar products made by coating a layer of product onto a layer of non-woven cellulosic film, letting it dry, and then die-cutting the film. Made this way, the masks need to be hydrated by the customer before use, but it does solve some micro control issues.
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I guess today is my day for being confused. It is not possible to purchase adjusting bases, they have to be made exactly the same way you make your formula -but it’s increasingly sounding like you don’t make your own formulas. Many of these lip stain formulas are very carefully balanced, and even the slightest change in them at all will result in failure, which sounds a lot like what you’ve posted here.
If you are purchasing a finished product from a manufacturer, you will need to contact that manufacturer to special order the adjusting bases.
If you are just buying retail products, then the best you will ever be able to do is buy other retail products of the same formula and mix them together to get your own versions.
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I’m kind of confused - why are you trying to make homemade degreaser? The Kerosene will work all by itself.
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This isn’t an uncommon problem, actually.
How do you color adjust a formula that won’t accept small amounts of extra color? The answer is to use “monochromatic” adjusting bases. Make several batches, each with only one pigment. To color adjust, you just mix the batch being adjusted with adjusting base(s). Since they are all complete formulas, you are not changing anything but the ratios of the pigments, so the formula itself is unchanged, and therefore remains stable with identical performance.
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Truly not a cosmetic or even a household product, so we can’t help much, but maybe we can show you where to get starting formulas. Where have you tried searching for this?
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Benzoin resin is used as a medical skin adhesive. Why are you using it?
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It’s flaking off because the film is not flexible enough, and its adhesion to skin is not strong enough. The right plasticizer will fix both problems at once.
This really has no relation to particle size.
Belassi, we use ground/frosted/etched glass plates because the rough surface is needed to grab the pigment agglomerates long enough to increase shear, and also because they’re easy and inexpensive to replace when they wear smooth. Using a polished surface of any material won’t work to grind pigment at all.
I suppose you could use a slab of granite, but it would have to have a surface similar to ground glass, and I don’t know how much it would cost, or how much it would cost to re-surface it after it wears out.
We used to use a 10″x10″ or 12″x12″ piece of 1/2 inch or 3/4 inch thick etched plate glass, which lasted for about 6-8 months of daily use. Make sure to get beveled or rounded edges, straight-cut edges will be sharp enough to slice up your hands.
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Ganex looks like a commercial-only ingredient, sorry.
Try jojoba esters from FNWL http://www.fromnaturewithlove.com/soap/product.asp?product_id=OTHJOJOEST70US87
http://www.fromnaturewithlove.com/soap/product.asp?product_id=OTHJOJOEST44US87or cera bellina from lotioncrafter
http://www.lotioncrafter.com/cera-bellina.htmlGlass beakers are good to use.
A decent sized glass plate should weigh a lot. You will get a better price from a local shop than you can online.