Bobzchemist
Forum Replies Created
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Spherical or fumed silica might, if you kept them saturated with oil - but the usual solution for this is to just increase the pigment levels. Do you have a situation that would keep you from doing that?
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Perry and Dr. Bob both have a good point. Since even mentioning anywhere that your SPF coverage had anything to do with iron oxides could result in the FDA forcing a recall of your product, why would you bother?
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Try Dow Corning® SW-8005 C30 Resin Wax
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Back when I was working on formulating standard liquid foundations, we tested all of them for SPF, to see if we could make any claims. Most of the regular coverage formulas had a SPF of 2, the others were zero. All tinted moisturizers tested were zero. High coverage formulas and concealers got about a 4. The SPF results correlated well with the TiO2 levels - iron oxide levels had virtually no contribution to SPF at all.
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What I gathered from the article was that clothing/bedding was getting saturated with emollient residue that couldn’t be washed out, making the cloth extremely flammable, particularly after repeated use.
Light mineral oil *should* wash out. I’m assuming, I think, that the paraffin referred to is paraffin wax and not mineral oil. If they’re actually talking about mineral oil, then who ever is doing the laundry has made fatal errors. But I’m sure that the correlation between wide use and incidents is real as well.
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Volatile dimethicone/cyclomethicone?
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Start with plain water, and see if it dries fast enough in your packaging.
Then, test a simulated aerosol using a system like this:
http://www.dickblick.com/products/preval-sprayer/?clickTracking=true&wmcp=pla&wmcid=items&wmckw=25003-0000&gclid=Cj0KEQjw-73GBRCC7KODl9zToJMBEiQAj1JgfyLuOQK0Xp1Cq55UtbzfNBubgvb8nt0JF8HcZCOEWIoaAlbP8P8HAQ -
Best way to start up is to find private label companies and evaluate the formulas they already have available, which should be fairly good. Pick ones you like and start marketing/selling. Custom formulation can come later.
In my opinion, success for a new line is 80% marketing/sales and 20% formulation/packaging. An amazing formula in awful packaging with minimal marketing won’t sell, but a mediocre formula in mediocre packaging with great marketing can easily be very successful.
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Also, Iron Oxides, due to their color, will likely heat up in intense sunlight. I can’t imagine that this would be pleasant.
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My take on this is that the primary issue is using an oil-based ingredient that can’t be washed out. Using bees wax or carnauba instead of paraffin would not fix this problem.
Paraffin, however, is very cheap. Replacing it will cost a lot of money.
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I don’t think it’s going to be possible and still have it function as a bath soak.
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The RPM isn’t the only component of shear - but good luck.
I don’t know if pre-dispersed pigments are available to you in small quantities, but they would certainly make formulating a foundation much easier.
Also, is your goal to learn how to formulate, or to make a useable product? If you just want a product, there are much easier ways to do this.
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Try Richard Konick
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This is not something that any of the professionals here can give advice on - you’re an amateur making a pharmaceutical, and the potential liability is staggering.
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That looks right to me, except you left out the Tween 20.
I’ll add a few other bits of info that point towards an O/W emulsion. First, it’s really, really difficult to get a W/O emulsion to suspend pigments, and I don’t see any of the ingredients in the LOI required for stable pigment suspension in an oil phase.
Second, having the synergistic water thickening combo of both veegum and xanthan gum in the formula is also a strong indication of an O/W emulsion - if it was a W/O emulsion, you’d want the water phase to be as thin as possible, so that you could process the batch without truly massive amounts of shear.
It’s very likely that this product is being made completely or at least partially in a colloid mill. If so, it will be tough to reproduce without high shear mixing.
It’s also likely that the (probably volatile) dimethicone is being added during cool-down, and is not being heated with the rest of the oil phase.
Lastly, you are correct in saying that the MAS/gum combo acts as a co-emulsifier, or at least as a very good emulsion stabilizer.
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55 gallon drums (208 liters) are widely available, and there’s a lot of equipment available to handle them. 100 liters is a non-standard size. It’s relatively easy to make a 100-liter batch in a 55 gallon drum.
If I was going to do this and also prepare for expansion, I’d look for a drum mixer like this one, so I could use a standard drum:
https://www.indco.com/one-HP-electric-gear-drive-drum-lid-mixer-EPOtherwise, I’d go with Option 2, but probably using 2 or 3 larger diameter impellers than what are shown.
300 rpm is much too fast. 20 - 100 rpm is about right.
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I can’t find it either - but these might help:
https://www.dowcorning.com/content/publishedlit/27_1540_liquid_satin_blend.pdf
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It depends on what definition of “intellectual property” you want to use. From a legal standpoint, a lot of people consider IP to be a set of information that is defensible, i.e., is a legal monopoly granted by the government, like patents, copyrights, and trademarks. They’re defensible because you can sue someone you catch using it.
A formula, on the other hand, is more like a trade secret. If someone copies it, you have no recourse. As a result, it has little to no real-world value, at least not to a lawyer or accountant.
The other things to consider are how many other people have access to the formula, and what kind of arrangement your formulator has with the contract manufacturer. You also need to consider whether you’re buying exclusive rights or not - is he going to sell the formula to anyone else?
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Lipstick melt point is usually indirectly measured using a drop point test:
http://www.koehlerinstrument.com/products/K19490.html -
If you’re using sodium stearate, you’re already using a pH adjuster - you can only get sodium stearate by adding sodium hydroxide to stearic acid.
You might want to try a higher pH. At a pH of 8, sodium stearate is skating on the edge of stability.
I once solved a similar problem by using fumed silica - but I’m not sure if that’s “natural” enough for you.
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And that’s the reason behind just dropping their book line, I believe - keeping the books from being pirated is too much trouble, so why bother selling them anymore?
Running an online-only operation is much easier to secure, on the other hand. I suspect that annoying their readers is way, way down on their list of things to worry about. It’s always seemed to me that their customer service was strongly influenced by their being a near-monopoly in a tiny market, which meant that making a profit was their first, second, and third priority.
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The book issue is interesting. Digital editions could be easily pirated, but print editions need storage space and other infrastructure to get them to customers. And the market is small enough that there’s likely very little profit involved.
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I don’t think that Olivem 1000 can produce a long-term stable emulsion at 2% without a co-emulsifier, so the amount of oil you have isn’t the issue, really.
Pemulen is synergistic with Carbopol, so you’d probably only need to use 0.05 - 0.1 percent of Ultrez 30 together with 0.2% of TR-1.
I’m not sure how the cetearyl alcohol would help you to get a light effect on skin, though.
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You might want to consider using one of the Pemulens to boost your emulsification also.
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Try vacuuming the air out?