Bill_Toge
Forum Replies Created
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increase your MEA and/or ammonia levels; this will accelerate the decomposition of peroxide, and hence accelerate the dimerisation/polymerisation of your colourants
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sounds like a processing issue to me - if you’re not shearing the batch enough after mixing the water and waxes together, you’ll end up with a coarse translucent emulsion rather than a smooth opaque one
also, I very much doubt you’d see any difference between ceteareth-20 and ceteareth-30 in this field of application
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if it really is coated with aluminium you’ll want to issue your manufacturers with heavy duty dust masks when it goes to production; you don’t want them coming down with metal fume fever
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also I agree with @DavidW about DIY formulating; you want to show would-be employers some actual evidence you know what you’re doing, rather than just trotting out the usual unsubstantiated assertions that every other new graduate comes armed with
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since acetone and ethyl acetate at those levels are extremely toxic to most microbes, I’d say no
on the other hand, if it’s manufactured in such a way that the water phase is left standing for a long time before being added to the solvent phase, I’d recommend adding something to protect the water phase
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entry level R&D positions in private label manufacturers are a good introduction to the industry if you want to work at the bench; they’re less demanding than big-name brander, and you’ll get a wider range of experience than you would with a big-name brander
(that was how I got into this industry, having previously worked as a QC technician in a related industry)
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Article 20 of the Cosmetic Product Regulations 1223/2009 gives the legal standpoint:
“In the labelling, making available on the market, and advertising of cosmetic products, text, names, trade marks, and figurative or other signs shall not be used to imply that these products have characteristics or functions that they do not have.”
an example of a statement you could get away with is “contains [ingredient A], which helps to [do X, Y or Z]” since you’re not claiming that the product actually does X, Y, or Z; rather, you’re stating that ingredient A is included with the intention to do X, Y or Z, without any comment on how effective it is
also, I’d take competitors’ claims with a very big pinch of salt; the fact that the products are on the market doesn’t necessarily mean that enough evidence exists to back up the claims if the brand owner is challenged to prove them
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if the emulsion is bleeding rather than creaming, that suggests it’s being destabilised by an interaction at or near the interface of the emulsion, involving the emulsified droplets, the TiO2 and the polyphenols
as polyphenols usually have several fused aromatic rings (comprising a big flat section), they have a lot of surface area available for adsorbtion onto compatible surfaces
have you tried it with the green tea/red wine polyphenols and no TiO2?
(also, is your TiO2 coated with aluminium or alumina?)
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disperse it in hot water and use a high-shear mixer
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I disagree; if you don’t make any medical claims related to melatonin, and the final product doesn’t produce any physiological effects due to melatonin, the product can’t reasonably be called a medicine just because it contains melatonin
and unlike in the USA, suncreens are not classified as medicines or borderline medicines in Europe
to my mind, the biggest point of contention in using melatonin will be finding enough toxicology data to prove that it’s safe for use in leave-on skin products
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an Epton titration will give you a rough idea of the ionic surfactant content, as a quick and easy method
HPLC is the most rigorous technique I can think of, and will yield the most information - but the kit is very expensive, and setting it up and running it correctly is not a task to be taken lightly
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the shelf life assigned to a material is the shortest span of time it’s guaranteed to be fit for use after its initial approval and certification by the manufacturer’s QC department
beyond the initial shelf life, the manufacturer can’t guarantee the material is fit for use without having it re-tested and certified again
the shelf life of a given material will depend on the nature of the material; inert dry powders have the longest shelf lives, while reactive and/or microbially vulnerable materials have the shortest
just out of interest, what is this material that only has a 60 day shelf life? the shortest shelf life I’ve ever personally come across is 3 months, and that was for a concentrated vitamin C encapsulate
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in chemical terms, heavy water is almost identical to ordinary water; the only difference is that it’s more dense (hence the name, “heavy” water)
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@bobzchemist what you’ve described there is a phase inversion, which didn’t happen with this product - what happened was more like this (please excuse the crude MS Paint diagram!)
1. the oil phase is heated until uniform
2. the water phase is added with stirring
3. the mixed oil and water phases form a crude O/W emulsion
4. the batch is sheared, forming a fine O/W emulsion -
@honeyface, Lucas Meyer are distributed in the UK by Infinity Ingredients - don’t know what their minimum order quantities are though
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200 is a hydrophilic grade - try 812, 972 or 974
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which Aerosil are you using, there are several different grades
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in my experience with suspension shower gels and similar products, more surfactant = more Newtonian flow properties = less efficient suspension
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the sulphated ash test is done to determine the presence of certain metals
it’s done by burning off all the organic matter, then heating the sample with sulphuric acid, converting the oxides of those metals into sulphates
it has nothing to do with the material’s inherent sulphate content
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that’s the root of your problem right there
if you’ve got no water, you won’t get a cream (i.e. an emulsion) - just a blend of oils and waxes
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whoever wrote the pack copy has put the ingredients in alphabetical order, not weight order
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what are you using it for?
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this might sound like a stupid question, but have you got any water in this formula?
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the site was down for maintenance yesterday, try them again now
parabens and phenoxyethanol are listed in Annex V along with the other preservatives
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if you stick with ingredients that have recognised INCI names and adequate data to prove they’re safe to use on humans you should be all right, provided you can justify their usage if necessary, and your safety assessor isn’t too stubborn
where you might run into trouble is if you use industrial-grade materials that have INCI names but aren’t generally used in cosmetics, and aren’t covered by any of the Annexes - it then becomes a question of how much safety data is available and the quality of that data