Forum Replies Created

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  • Bill_Toge

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    April 10, 2016 at 2:42 pm in reply to: Help deciding on graduate program

    what kind of job you want to do within the industry?

  • Bill_Toge

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    April 10, 2016 at 2:41 pm in reply to: Increasing solubility of oxidative dyes in powder hair color

    try adding a powdered surfactant like 95% SLS, or sodium lauryl sulphoacetate

  • Bill_Toge

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    April 9, 2016 at 9:13 pm in reply to: Lotion bottles from food-grade aluminum

    because your product is mildly acidic, there is a risk of it degrading the packaging

    if the internal lacquer is uniform and of a good quality, the risk is minimal - if the lacquer is not uniform or of a good quality, the risk is higher

    you’ll just have to try it and see

  • Bill_Toge

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    April 9, 2016 at 9:06 pm in reply to: Suggestions for contract manufacturer in UK

    there are many contract manufacturers in the UK, but very few make colour cosmetics; the two that I know about are Surefil in St. Helens and Pascalle in Stoke

    as I’ve never dealt with them personally, I’ve no idea what their prices or minimum quantities are like

  • Bill_Toge

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    April 8, 2016 at 11:05 pm in reply to: preservative for dry shampoo

    how hygroscopic is your dry shampoo, and how likely is it to be exposed to moisture during the manufacturing and production process?

  • Bill_Toge

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    April 8, 2016 at 2:26 pm in reply to: Most expensive raw material

    the most expensive material per weight that we currently buy in substantial quantities is hexylresorcinol (for a skin lightening product), which if memory serves is about £700/kg

    also, some of our dyes run into hundreds of pounds per kg, but the cost per weight is offset by the fact we only buy 1-2 kg at a time

    as for expensive raw materials we don’t use, we once had an enquiry from a customer who’d had a load of formulas developed by a consultant; several of the fragrance ingredients were several thousand per kg, the most expensive being rose absolute, which was about £6,000 per kg at the time

    (it never went anywhere as all the formulas turned out to be paper exercises and the consultant had never checked whether or not they could actually be made, but that’s a whole other story)

  • Bill_Toge

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    March 27, 2016 at 1:16 am in reply to: Labels from China

    as with anything else from China, it’s a good idea to have a contingency plan in place, just in case the entire order gets f*cked up beyond repair

    because if that does happen, you won’t be able to send it back; you’ll have to write it off and dispose of it yourself, and the manufacturer will take no responsibility for it whatsoever

  • Bill_Toge

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    March 26, 2016 at 10:31 pm in reply to: glycerin and preservatives.

    you’ve got 67.5% w/w isopropyl alcohol in your formula, so there’s no chance of anything even surviving, let alone growing in there; in my view, your existing preservative is unnecessary

  • Bill_Toge

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    March 18, 2016 at 7:19 pm in reply to: How to keep salicylic acid from crystallizing out of my gel peel?

    it’s also worth bearing in mind that the figure for salicylic acid solubility is most likely based on the assumption that it’s in an isotropic, Newtonian solution, which your product is not (because it contains HEC, which hinders the motion of solvent molecules and alters the flow properties)

    also: is crystallisation more severe at low temperature than it is at room temperature?

  • Bill_Toge

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    March 18, 2016 at 6:21 pm in reply to: Skincare product with NO preservatives

    @Margreat you could also have pointed out that the MSDS is for the concentrated raw material, and asked her how much of it is still relevant when you dilute the raw material by a factor of 100+ (i.e. to its typical usage level in a finished product)

  • Bill_Toge

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    March 17, 2016 at 5:37 pm in reply to: Hydrogenated Castor Oil

    when dissolved in oil, hydrogenated castor oil forms a gel structure and doesn’t harden

    (this is why it helps stabilise W/O emulsions - it gels the oil phase, gives it some zero-shear viscosity, and prevent the droplets of the water phase from moving while at rest)

    if you want to make your pomade harder, try something else like beeswax or carnauba wax

  • Bill_Toge

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    March 17, 2016 at 5:29 pm in reply to: Styling Gel

    that sounds to me like the alcohol is causing your Fixate polymer to precipitate

    also it doesn’t say a single word about alcohol in the TDS, which suggests that it’s not compatible

  • Bill_Toge

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    March 16, 2016 at 8:04 pm in reply to: Hydrogenated Castor Oil

    agree with both of the previous posters - plus, it’s got a very high melting point, so if you add it in the cooldown there’s a real risk it won’t fully melt

  • Bill_Toge

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    March 14, 2016 at 8:06 pm in reply to: Salts (magnesium and citrates) causing transparency loss in cleansing formulation

    @Belassi the management probably don’t know themselves; if a formula is old or poorly documented, it’s not unknown for the rationale behind it to be lost to time once the original creator has left the business

  • Bill_Toge

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    March 11, 2016 at 6:52 pm in reply to: Signs of FAILURE in a stability test for a cream held at 45 Celsius?

    it will generally separate into two layers - water on the bottom and oil on the top

  • Bill_Toge

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    March 10, 2016 at 8:52 pm in reply to: Water soluble pomade

    @Clark at 80°C, do all the solid materials melt and stay liquid, and can they easily be mixed to uniformity at that temperature (i.e. so you don’t get any solid bits)?

    if so, then yes, it is hot enough

  • Bill_Toge

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    March 7, 2016 at 1:46 am in reply to: Questions About a Basic Shampoo

    @TLNCJM it’ll probably work, but there are plenty of other preservatives that are cheaper, more soluble and will work better in this particular system

    isothiazolinones or DMDM hydantoin are usually the most efficient broad-spectrum options for shampoos, though as @Belassi says, sodium benzoate works well if you can get the pH below 5

  • Bill_Toge

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    March 4, 2016 at 10:50 pm in reply to: Questions About a Basic Shampoo

    personally I’ve never had a problem with HEC thinning over time, except in peroxide cream

    also: if you want a thicker product, you can also reduce the level of surfactant rather than increase the level of thickener, since surfactants compete with polymeric thickeners for solvation in water and reduce their efficiency as thickeners

  • Bill_Toge

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    March 4, 2016 at 3:43 am in reply to: Alternative to peroxide releasing compounds

    yes, but does it still work?

    in the case of hair dyes, whether or not it works properly is more important than how it looks

  • Bill_Toge

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    March 1, 2016 at 10:25 am in reply to: Alternative to peroxide releasing compounds

    does the discolouration stop the product working properly?

  • Bill_Toge

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    February 29, 2016 at 10:15 am in reply to: Dry wipes

    well for starters there are a lot of ingredients missing from that list, e.g. a solvent

    for a dry wipe to do the same job as a wet wipe you’d need to find some way of making the cleansing ingredients stick to the fibres of the wipe, make sure they stay there during the manufacturing process, but also make sure they come off easily when applied to the skin - achieving both of these contradictory goals to a satisfactory degree would be technologically and practically difficult

    and given the fact that wet wipes are commodities (i.e. they would need to be inexpensive to successfully compete in the market), I’d argue it wouldn’t be worth it

  • Bill_Toge

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    February 29, 2016 at 9:58 am in reply to: Do hydrosols need a preservative?

    you could technically sell it in the UK without a preservative, but if Trading Standards tested a consumer-ready sample and found it to be full of microbes, you’d be obliged to withdraw it from the market or face prosecution

  • Bill_Toge

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    February 27, 2016 at 1:12 am in reply to: Paraffin Wax Substitute

    beeswax has a brittle/crumbly texture very similar to paraffin wax, and since it’s harder and has a higher melting point, you need less of it to get an equivalent/very similar effect

  • Bill_Toge

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    February 27, 2016 at 12:43 am in reply to: Peeling-Whitening Cream

    @BartJ, what’s the pH of your benchmark?

    I ask, as your remark:

    The original cream makes the skin peel off in big chunks.

    raises a red flag, and makes me think there may be something undeclared in the benchmark

  • Bill_Toge

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    February 27, 2016 at 12:37 am in reply to: Alternative to peroxide releasing compounds

    I don’t think you can prevent oxidation, and still have an effective product; the raw materials themselves oxidise over time, unless you keep them in a vacuum-sealed container

    the best thing you can do is minimise it by using the purest possible grades of base and coupler

    furthermore: the powder may discolour at high temperature, but does it make the product noticeably less effective? in my view, that would be the most important issue

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